Eagle

The fusible link is a fuse. The purpose is to protect the system, and to reduce the possibility of underhood fires. If you replaced the fusible link with a heavier gauge wire, you need a fuse. You can get heavy-duty, 100-amp in-line fuses at marine supply places, and my brother told me that Auto Zone may now carry them.

You didn't change or adjust the steering box when you did the lift, correct? Did you have death wobble before you did the lift? What changed with the lift? Look there first. Have you seen the super-mega-thread and poll we had awhile back on the subjject of what causes death wobble, and why? It would behoove you to read it. (Even if some of the opinions don't agree with mine.)

Why, because you didn't get fifteen responses in less than four hours? Patience is a virtue, grasshopper.

The 13.5 gallon capacity was in early base model Cherokees. I don't think it was ever in the MJ -- the tanks are totally different. Unless you had a build sheet run the day the vehicle was purchased, you really can't trust them too much. Chrysler apparently recycled some of the codes, so running a build sheet on an older XJ or MJ results in some eye-opening option listings that were never available in the year of the vehicle.

I'm a Canon advocate, going back to the 1960s. They have the best lenses in the industry (although Nikon lovers will dispute that), and they are the industry leaders with regard to digital sensor technology (and even most Nikon lovers admit to that). Your best deal is probably going to be Wal-Mart. Get the PowerShot A580 -- or by now it may have moved up to A590 or A680 ... a lot can change in six months. Should cost you around 100 clams or a bit over. It's small, light, offers multiple shooting modes, and even has video capability.

Will the gauge register 9 volts? 9 volts is the bottom end of the scale, nez pas?

Also inspect carefully to see that the spring perches on the axle are actually centered on the springs. If the centering pins got rusty enough, they could have sheared off and allowed the axle to shift sideways.

You are (IMHO) going at this wrong. The stock MJ springs are only 3-leaf springs. If the truck has a metric ton suspension, it may have 4 leaves, or it may have 3 plus 2 overloads. You can't count the overload leaves for daily driving, because they aren't being used until the box gets loaded down and the springs compress. Just put a 3" AAL in the back if you want 3 inches. Don't make life more difficult than it has to be. BTW -- you don't need 3" of lift to run 31s on an MJ.

Pete gave you the standard answer based on both ends. I would add that, based on personal experience, even 30x9.50s will probably rub the lower control arms. The usual consensus is that the largest tire that's virtually guaranteed to not rub is a 235/75-15. However, your question specified rear, and the MJ has a larger rear wheel arch than the XJ. In terms of tire diameter, you can easily run 31x10.50s with no problems and no cutting, and you might be able to get away with 32s or even 33s. Except ... Because of the different construction at the back of the MJ, the rear wheels and tires sit closer to the inner wall of the wheel well. Running 31x10.50s on factory rims, after a wheeling expedition I would always find rubber marks on the inside sirface of the wheel well where the shoulder of the tire rubbed when the axle got "articulated." Anything wider than a 10.50 would be essentially an interference fit ... and would also be running perilously close to the leaf spring. If you run spacers or rims with less backspacing, that will push the tires out to possibly alleviate the shoulder rubbing the sheet metal, but then you have to worry about the tread clearing the flares. I never tried aftermarket rims or tires larger than 31x10.50 so I am not qualified to address how much trimming might be necessary once you get away from factory rims.

New tailgate handle assemblies were still available from Jeep awhile back, but prohibitively expensive. Someone posted not too long ago that the handle for some Ford of Chevy is the same, and can be bought from the parts chain stiores for half the price. The screws are torx head screws, and I believe there are three of them. One of my MJs had one side of the handle broken when I got it. I took it out, wire brushed it, and welded it together.

I literally HAD to stop watching. I have an intense fear of heights, and that was more than I could take.

I'm thinking Idle Air Controller (IAC)

A new one is $35 at Auto Zone -- with a lifetime warrantee. I just picked one up about an hour ago.

NAPA will probably have the parts. A Jeep dealer will either have them or be able to get them. Having doe the job a couple of time, I agree with Pat's advice. The centering ball parts are not cheap, and they are a nuisance. I'd strongly recommend taking it to a driveshaft shop and letting them do it for you.

I believe he's referring to taking an MJ main leaf, cutting the eyes off, and putting it between the top and 2nd leafs on your truck. Like this: No, I'm referring to doing that, PLUS trimming the "donor" MJ second leaves and inserting them into the packs as an additional AAL. The sequence would then be: Original main leaf Trimmed donor main leaf Original second leaf Trimmer donor second leaf Original third leaf Original overload leaf

If I have succesfully sabotaged your freebie spring acquisition (sorry!), you can achieve what you want with a Rancho AAL kit. It's Rancho part number RS60913. (Note: The footnote in the Rancho catalog says it is not recommended for Cherokees or Comanches with 3-leaf springs. It doesn't say why not, and I don't see any reason not to use it.) The last time I bought one of those sets, it cost $50. It may be closer to $65 by now.

Dunno. It depends on what you hope to accomplish. I don't think it will generate much lift, but I am not certain because I haven't done mine yet. If lift is your goal, I think a good, full-length AAL or a pair of cut-off MJ or Dakota main leaves will be more appropriate. If you want to increase the capacity, the XJ leaves would seem to be a good choice. Keep in mind that if you get your boss's XJ springs, you're not limited to using just the main leaves. You could also add in the second leaf to get some more lift. I remember one of the guys in NAXJA from California was running something like 9-leaf springs in his trail XJ, and he said it flexed great. Many years ago, I bought an old Hudson pickup (most of you never even heard of Hudson) that must have had about 12 leaves in the rear springs -- and they seemed to be factory. I had three Hudson POs, and the springs on that one were twice as thick as the other two. Who has used MJ main leaves for AALs, and how much lift did they produce?

Not mine.. You said yours was a CJ. The CJ model 20 axle did not have one-piece shafts. The MJ/XJ model 20 axle did.

Yes

I have been considering using XJ main leaves to convert standard MJ springs to Metric Tonne springs. I think you'll get more carrying capacity but very little lift. Here's why: A lot of us in NAXJA have used cut-off XJ main leaves as AALs in XJs. The result is typically about 1-1/2" of gross lift. I did it on an '88 and got a gross lift (measured before and after) of 1-1/4". But the rear had sagged 1/2" before the lift, so I netted a grand total of 3/4" higher than "stock," or about the same as a later model Up Country suspension would have provided from the factory. (It rode very well, by the way.) But the XJ is spring-over-axle, with the springs almost flat when installed in the vehicle. The MJ is spring-under, and the springs are arched when installed. If you hold those XJ main leaves up against the MJ springs in the vehicle, I think you'll find that the free arch of the XJ leaf is close to the installed/loaded arch of the MJ springs. Which means sticking the extra leaf in there won't add much (if any) height, because it won't be deflecting and taking any load. Once you start adding load in the box, though, the XJ leaf will start to deflect, and at that point it starts adding some carrying capacity.

Problem is, the article is chock full or errors and misinformation. The editors did a lousy job of fact checking. This article should never have been released. As Ronald Reagan said, "Trust ... but verify." A quick sampling: Wrong. The 2.5L had a carburetor in the 84 ans 85 models. The TBI version didn't show up until the 86 model year. OBD-II didn't show up until the 1996 model year, and in the 96s it was somewhat of a kludge implementation. The real OBD-II started in 97. There was no "later" involved. The AX-4 4-speed was the base transmission. The AX-5 was always optional. The only real change was that somewhere around 1990 or 1991 they stopped using the AX-4 entirely and made the AX-5 the base transmission. The AX-15 was introduced in mid-year 1989, and it stayed thriough 1999, not through 2000. I have a 2000 XJ. It has the NV3550. That's all I could stand. I couldn't force myself to read any deeper into that mess.

Yeah. Just like Renault did not buy American Motors. AMC's purpose in "partnering" with Renault was to get some smaller, more economical cars in the showroom, too, while Renault's motive was to get access to an established dealer network. And the cars were junk. Which is why Renault had never been able to sell them, and which was why AMC was not able to sell them. Now here we are, 30 years later, watching an instant replay. "Partnership." Riiiiiight ...

I think he said he doesn't want a 4.0L because if the weight. In that case, I'd look at the GM 3.4L, since it uses the same block as the 2.8L V6 and you can source the mounts, brackets and manifolds, etc, from 84 - 86 Cherokees with the 2.8L.

I don't think that's correct. I'd say the 4+1 is the more common configuration by far. I have never seen any metric tonne MJ with anything other than the 4+1 springs, and the first I ever heard of a possible 3+2 version was in reading this thread.

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