Eagle

It's in the same place on the 2.5.L. One wire. And please don't type in all caps. It's more difficult to read, and it's considered rude.

Left (driver's side) rear corner of the head.

Left (driver's side) rear corner of the head.

I believe the gasket that comes from the factory already has sealant on it. If you used a Jeep part, you weren't supposed to put RTV on it. You should be able to reuse it, if you can take it apart without tearing the gasket. This time you WILL need RTV.

I believe the gasket that comes from the factory already has sealant on it. If you used a Jeep part, you weren't supposed to put RTV on it. You should be able to reuse it, if you can take it apart without tearing the gasket. This time you WILL need RTV.

You must have a defective thermostat. The function of the thermostat is to keep the temperature up. If the temperature isn't staying in the operating range, the thermostat isn't working.

You must have a defective thermostat. The function of the thermostat is to keep the temperature up. If the temperature isn't staying in the operating range, the thermostat isn't working.

You'll clear the lower control arms, but you'll have other clearance problems with the flares and sheet metal. You're starting with a rim that sits 1-1/2" farther outboard than the stock rims. Then you're adding an inch of width, which moves the centerline outboard an additional 1/2". With those tires and wheels your tires are going to be riding a full 2" father out than stock. The problems will be that much worse when you move up to 31s.

You'll clear the lower control arms, but you'll have other clearance problems with the flares and sheet metal. You're starting with a rim that sits 1-1/2" farther outboard than the stock rims. Then you're adding an inch of width, which moves the centerline outboard an additional 1/2". With those tires and wheels your tires are going to be riding a full 2" father out than stock. The problems will be that much worse when you move up to 31s.

No, you are confusing your terminology. "Turning over" is what you call "cranking" -- the starter motor is making the crankshaft rotate. "Turning over" does not mean "starting" or "running." If I understand correctly, you're saying it does start ... but won't run unless the key is in the START position. You are correct -- if it reliably fires while the starter is engaged, but then dies when you release the key, the problem is more likely the ballast resistor, or the fuel pump. You can test the ballast resistor just by jumping the two wires together. Remember what the ballast resistor does -- it reduces the voltage sent to the fuel pump. During a start, the resistor is bypassed and the fuel pump gats a full 12 volts. When you release the key, power to the fuel pump flows through the ballast resister, which drops it from 12 volts to 8 or 9 volts. What I'm thinking is this: Usually, if the ballast resistor is bad, once the engine starts there should be enough pressure in the rail for the engine to idle for at least 15 to 30 seconds. You're saying it dies instantly. That suggests that maybe your fuel pump isn't putting out enough pressure (or volume), and it needs the full 12 volts just to deliver enough fuel to idel. Once the key is released and the fuel pump is only seeing 8 or 9 volts, it doesn't pump enough fuel to keep things cookin'. Make any sense? Another test for the ballast resister: After the truck has sat overnight, turn the key to ON but not to START. Do it with your door open and your head outside. You should hear the fuel pump run for about 5 to 10 secinds while it pressurizes the fuel rail, then it should shut off when it reaches pressure. If you don't hear the fuel pump at all -- think ballast resistor. If the pump runs and runs and runs and runs ... think either fuel pump or regulator.

No, you are confusing your terminology. "Turning over" is what you call "cranking" -- the starter motor is making the crankshaft rotate. "Turning over" does not mean "starting" or "running." If I understand correctly, you're saying it does start ... but won't run unless the key is in the START position. You are correct -- if it reliably fires while the starter is engaged, but then dies when you release the key, the problem is more likely the ballast resistor, or the fuel pump. You can test the ballast resistor just by jumping the two wires together. Remember what the ballast resistor does -- it reduces the voltage sent to the fuel pump. During a start, the resistor is bypassed and the fuel pump gats a full 12 volts. When you release the key, power to the fuel pump flows through the ballast resister, which drops it from 12 volts to 8 or 9 volts. What I'm thinking is this: Usually, if the ballast resistor is bad, once the engine starts there should be enough pressure in the rail for the engine to idle for at least 15 to 30 seconds. You're saying it dies instantly. That suggests that maybe your fuel pump isn't putting out enough pressure (or volume), and it needs the full 12 volts just to deliver enough fuel to idel. Once the key is released and the fuel pump is only seeing 8 or 9 volts, it doesn't pump enough fuel to keep things cookin'. Make any sense? Another test for the ballast resister: After the truck has sat overnight, turn the key to ON but not to START. Do it with your door open and your head outside. You should hear the fuel pump run for about 5 to 10 secinds while it pressurizes the fuel rail, then it should shut off when it reaches pressure. If you don't hear the fuel pump at all -- think ballast resistor. If the pump runs and runs and runs and runs ... think either fuel pump or regulator.

Water in the gas?

Water in the gas?

This link may help you with the flaring. One caveat, though -- that flare tool shown in the article is not the best type. The parts chains sell cheap ones that look that that, and they don't work. The clamp doesn't hold the tube, and when you try to make the flare the tube just slides down in the clamp. http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html http://www.team-camaro.com/forums/showt ... p?t=145621 Do not waste money on a cheap double flare set. This is one place where it isn't just a matter of how many jobs the tool might survive. The cheap ones won't do ONE job, so buying them is a complete waste of money. We had a link on here awhile back on the good double flare tool set. Does anyone remember who made it? J-K Tools, maybe? :dunno: Don't remember. {EDIT}Found it. K-D Tools 2190 is the one that works. http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?Page ... odID=28191

This link may help you with the flaring. One caveat, though -- that flare tool shown in the article is not the best type. The parts chains sell cheap ones that look that that, and they don't work. The clamp doesn't hold the tube, and when you try to make the flare the tube just slides down in the clamp. http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html http://www.team-camaro.com/forums/showt ... p?t=145621 Do not waste money on a cheap double flare set. This is one place where it isn't just a matter of how many jobs the tool might survive. The cheap ones won't do ONE job, so buying them is a complete waste of money. We had a link on here awhile back on the good double flare tool set. Does anyone remember who made it? J-K Tools, maybe? :dunno: Don't remember. {EDIT}Found it. K-D Tools 2190 is the one that works. http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?Page ... odID=28191

Ah .. je comprends. I agree, Although usually they'll run for 15 to 30 seconds after you let go of the key, as long as there's still some pressure in the fuel rail. It's easy to test -- just jumper across the two wires on the ballast resistor to bypass it. If it'll stay running ... you've found the problem.

Ah .. je comprends. I agree, Although usually they'll run for 15 to 30 seconds after you let go of the key, as long as there's still some pressure in the fuel rail. It's easy to test -- just jumper across the two wires on the ballast resistor to bypass it. If it'll stay running ... you've found the problem.

What fun is that? Isn't that contrary to the Jeepers' Code of Conduct? :banana:

What fun is that? Isn't that contrary to the Jeepers' Code of Conduct? :banana:

By all means, save it if you can. Or buy the whole thing and let the rabble on this board have a bidding war over it ... (See my signature)

By all means, save it if you can. Or buy the whole thing and let the rabble on this board have a bidding war over it ... (See my signature)

CPS CPS CPS CPS

CPS CPS CPS CPS

what is SAE? stand for? Bolts in the U.S. come in two classes of thread pitch -- coarse, and fine. Coarse threads are UNC, and fine threads are SAE, because they are encountered most often in automotive applications, and that's what they were developed for. The 1/2" bolts you can find in the drawers at Home Depot (if other customers haven't totally trashed the arrangement) are UNC coarse. They will NOT screw into the outlet on the metering block. You should be able to find 1/2" SAE fine bolts on the revolving display racks at Auto Zone, Advance/Checker/Shucks, and Pep Boys.

what is SAE? stand for? Bolts in the U.S. come in two classes of thread pitch -- coarse, and fine. Coarse threads are UNC, and fine threads are SAE, because they are encountered most often in automotive applications, and that's what they were developed for. The 1/2" bolts you can find in the drawers at Home Depot (if other customers haven't totally trashed the arrangement) are UNC coarse. They will NOT screw into the outlet on the metering block. You should be able to find 1/2" SAE fine bolts on the revolving display racks at Auto Zone, Advance/Checker/Shucks, and Pep Boys.