Eagle

Haynes is wrong. The access is on the upper inside (not the top) of the tank, facing the drive shaft. The entire pump and fuel gauge sender assembly is on a mounting flange that's held into the tank by a locking ring and a rubber gasket. You do not need to drop the tank to remove the fuel pump. It wil be much easier, though, if you drop the rear drive shaft to give you room to work.

Pitman arm pullers are typically the heaviest-duty puller you can find in any shop ... and they still break. Do you know any friends who are professional mechanics? If so, have one of them buy you one from the Snap-On truck. Be prepared to pay handsomely.

There may be others closer to you. I just Googled "speedometer repair north carolina" and gave you some of the first hits, to show that such places do exist. I'm sure that's not an exhaustive list.

http://www.mrwhizard.com/ http://www.specmo.com/Calibration/Calibration.asp http://www.manta.com/mb_45_B32BB1UR_34/ ... h_carolina http://www.nsifleet.com/home.html

The 207 was not a 23-spline box, it was a 21-spline box. I'm still confused. My age must be catching up with me. Sorry. Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain in the corner ...

Okay, the '91 cluster should be correct. The temperature sender you need to replace is the one at the back of the head, as shown in the photo posted above in this thread. And you'll need to replace the oil pressure sender, which can come from the donor XJ. Everything else will be plug-n-play -- except for resetting the odometer, and I think you have to take it to a speedometer shop to have that done. I'm not even sure if dealers can do it.

There are retreads, and there are retreads. Do not think that the retreads you can buy at Joe's Tire and Whiffle Ball Emporium are anywhere near the quality they use on aircraft. Whether or not they make sense for you depends on how you will use the vehicle, how much money you'll really save, and how much of a gambler you are. I don't drive fast -- I never go more than about 2 MPH over the speed limit, and I rarely carry heavy loads. I will not put retreads on a daily driver. I might put retreads on a trailer queen, because a flat on a trail may delay things but it probably won't kill me. On pavement, all bets are off. Ever been through a real, honest-to-God blowout? I have -- it was like driving over an IED. Not fun. A good many years ago, when I finished up graduate school, I took off around the middle of September on a cross-country camping trip. I mention September so you'll know it wasn't freezing, but it also wasn't the hottest part of the summer. Somewhere in the mid-west, probably on the Kansas turnpike, I was loafing along at about the speed limit and a fairly late-model Mustang went zooming by me. Yeah, fine, the car I was driving then probably could have sucked his doors off, but I wasn't in race mode I was in vacation mode. I let him go. A few miles down the road I pulled into a Stuckey's for a pit stop, and found the Mustang ... up on a jack. It was a guy about my age and his bride. They were on their honeymoon. And they had just SHREDDED a tire. Sure enough, it was a recap -- except that there was nothing left of the recap. Just the bare tire carcass, with al the cords showing since they shave them before they cap them. You know when you're driving down the highway and you see those long strips of black rubber the truckers call "alligators"? That's because the big trucks run recaps, too ... and they shed from time to time. And I'm pretty sure that since big trucks are under D.O.T. inspection and safety rules, the recaps they get are better than the recaps you're likely to find. Trail only, IMHO. And if you run recaps, be certain your spare is a viable spare.

Dunno. If so it's the first I've heard of it, but I don't know much about the later 4-cylinders. Where's BLHTAZ when we need him?

What year is the MJ? For all years of the MJ the sender for the gauge is the one at the back corner of the head. For 1991 and newer, the sender in the thermostat housing sends data to the ECU.

He got a late-model 231 from an XJ with the electric speedometer. That means it came from one of the years that didn't use the front axle disconnect, so the transfer case has no port to actuate the vacuum to the the disconnect. What I can't figure out is how the transfer case went into an '86. The '86 was a 21-spline, the newer one should be a 23-spline. Bigmrec34, did you swap only the transfer case, or did you swap the transfer case and transmission together?

Check your passenger side carpet. The heater core just sprung a leak in my '88 XJ. :grrrr:

Could you please repeat the question in standard English, without all the TXT MSG abbreviations and acronyms, so us olde phartes can understand what you're asking? I have to be honest -- I'd like to try to help you, but I can't understand anything you wrote. I can't even figure out if you're asking one, two, or three separate questions.

Take it back? Ford has never owned Jeep. If they ever got their hands on it -- they'd ruin it anyway.

The basic rule of thumb for a daily driver vehicle (unless your preference is to just look "big") should be to use the smallest lift necessary for the tires you will run and the terrain you will encounter. I ran my '88 with a 4" lift and 31s for several years and wheeled it all over New England and most of Paragon Offroad Park in Pennsylvania before that closed. I didn't really need even the 4" lift -- that's what was in it when I bought it. A 3" lift would have been fine for all the wheeling I did, and for street use I could have run the 31s with no lift at all. 4" was a nuisance, to be honest. At that height, getting into and out of the truck was breaking down the outside corner of the driver's seat. Once Paragon closed and the greenies started making things difficult for wheeling the Mohawk Trail area of Massachusetts, I took the lift out and I'm much happier driving the truck at stock height. If you're getting a 3" lift -- get a 3" lift, don't allow a 3" lift to persuade you that you really "need" a 6" lift.

Comanche doors ARE 4-door Cherokee front doors. The same modifications are needed to use 97+ Cherokee doors on a Comanche as are needed to use them on a '96 or older Cherokee. If you can find a rust-free MJ and the long wheelbase won't be an issue for your intended use -- don't hesitate. Engines and drive trains can be built and swapped, but they ain't making rust-free (or any other kind of) Comanches any more.

1990 was the first year for the second generation of the XJ/MJ front brake system. The knuckles, rotors and calipers are ALL different from previous years, IIRC. I don't know if the pads might be the same, but if the calipers are different I rather doubt it. Here's the Cliff's Notes capsule summary of what fits: The above is copyrighted and may NOT be reproduced or distributed. You may print out one copy for your own, personal use.

Take yours out and inspect it. If the rubber spacer is intact but has collapsed (compressed) vertically, just put it back in and shim it with a couple or three washers on each bolt. Bottom line, though -- if it hasn't collapsed far enough that the exhaust pipe is resting on the cross member, it probably hasn't collapsed enough to be causing any problems.

You said you can't drive a standard. If it has 3.07 gears, it's a 5-speed. What you're looking for is an XJ with a 4.0L and the AW4 automatic. That's a 4-speed automatic -- 3 speeds plus overdrive. Although the Dana 44 axle would be good to have. But you'll still be looking for a tranny.

What a surprise!

Good. I hope he's either rich or has plenty of insurance. Just remember -- when the accident is the other guy's fault, there ain't no such thing as a "total." You drive an irreplaceable truck because that's what you choose to drive. You are legally entitled to have your truck repaired to the condition it was in before the accident, using all factory parts (which is a laugh, since they aren't available, but it'll keep them jumping), plus having a rental ride while yours is being worked on. Don't let anybody stonewall you. If the clown doesn't have insurance -- put a lien on his house.

The short answer is -- because you can die. The medical treatise is a bit more lengthy and technical, but that's the bottom line.

Correction -- Snore well!

Idler pulley? Water pump? Alternator? Power steering pump?

CPS. That's the culprit when a good running truck suddenly won't start, in probably 98.75% of the cases.

It's not impossible -- it will be a bolt-in swap, but you'll be changing all the underhood wiring, and you'll have to find a gas tank that's set up to work with the V6 mechanical fuel pump. The big things is, the 2.8L won't get out of its own way any faster than the 2.5L. Personally, I'd prefer the 2.5L over the V6 any day. The 2.8L V6 was badly under-powered in the Chevy S10, and it was badly underpowered in the Jeep Comanche. If you look at the actual torque and horsepower ratings, you'll be doing a LOT of work for effectively zero gain.