Eagle

Sounds like an interesting project. However, I don't know how to accompish it. A few years ago I was looking for a pop-top, slide in camper shell for an MJ. At the time I only had a SWB and the pop-tops I found were for a LWB, so I never pursued it. I think the power winch for lifting is perhaps overkill. I don't think the commercial pop-tops use power. Maybe a manual crank. But ... I've never been in one, so I don't honestly know. This is what I had in mind: http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/ranger.html I used Google to find that ^^^. First hit was a link to plans, which might be helpful to you: http://www.vintageprojects.com/misc/pop ... shell.html

Installing a double diaphragm booster is a lot of work and expense that will accomplish NOTHING if the rear proportioning valve doesn't allow any pressure to the rear wheels.

Installing a double diaphragm booster is a lot of work and expense that will accomplish NOTHING if the rear proportioning valve doesn't allow any pressure to the rear wheels.

Wrong forum. Sorry.

Eliminating the rear proportioning valve, if done properly (which means the way I think it should be done :smart: ) involves replacing the two steel lines from the front of the truck to the rear axle with one, NEW steel line. I've seen too many ruptured lines on older Cherokees and Comanches to trust the condition of 20-year old steel tubing. And to replace the line to the rear, you will be doing some custom bending and flaring of steel brake tubing. If you are not comfortable doing that, and don't have the tools to do a proper double flare ... then as CJLongshot suggests, you are better off paying to have it done. The only thing worse than bad brakes is NO brakes. They are not something to fool around with.

AX-5 or T-5 maybe, but the BA 10/5 was not used with the 2.5L engine. Agreed. I've heard too many stories about that little platinum tip breaking off and holing the top of a piston to ever consider using them in any engine I own. I run standard (not platinum) NGKs and I think they are better than any other plug for the Jeep engines.

What many of us do is remove the rear height-sensing proportioning valve. The how-to has been written up multiple times on this forum, and IIRC there was a thread discussing it within the past week or two. The flaw with the self-adjusters is that they only self-adjust when the brakes are applied firmly in reverse. Because the rear proportioning valve basically doesn't let any pressure go to the rear wheels if the truck isn't heavily loaded, the adjusters simply never get engaged. Once the rear proportioning valve has been removed, if you keep the self-adjusters clean they should work as intended.

I agree on dumping the FoMoCo plugs, but my 4.0Ls seem to like NGKs best.

Not quite. He has an '89, which probably means it has an AX-15 tranny, and the AX-15 tranny doesn't like GL-5 rated gear oil. The sulfer in the formulation eats the synchronizers. THe original factory recommendation was an 8-90 gear oil rated GL-3. However, since you could spend a couple of generations trying to find that, according to Pete the factory has changes their recommendation to motor oil. I think I'd be tempted to try the dedicated synchromesh gear oil from Pennzoil, but I don't have an AX-15 to worry about at the moment.

Before you spend any more time trying to trouble-shoot the coil and ignition module -- do you have any idea how old your CPS is? In probably 98.73 percent of the cases, that is the cause of no starts and unpredictable "die in the middle of the road" episodes.

Haynes is wrong. The access is on the upper inside (not the top) of the tank, facing the drive shaft. The entire pump and fuel gauge sender assembly is on a mounting flange that's held into the tank by a locking ring and a rubber gasket. You do not need to drop the tank to remove the fuel pump. It wil be much easier, though, if you drop the rear drive shaft to give you room to work.

Pitman arm pullers are typically the heaviest-duty puller you can find in any shop ... and they still break. Do you know any friends who are professional mechanics? If so, have one of them buy you one from the Snap-On truck. Be prepared to pay handsomely.

There may be others closer to you. I just Googled "speedometer repair north carolina" and gave you some of the first hits, to show that such places do exist. I'm sure that's not an exhaustive list.

http://www.mrwhizard.com/ http://www.specmo.com/Calibration/Calibration.asp http://www.manta.com/mb_45_B32BB1UR_34/ ... h_carolina http://www.nsifleet.com/home.html

The 207 was not a 23-spline box, it was a 21-spline box. I'm still confused. My age must be catching up with me. Sorry. Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain in the corner ...

Okay, the '91 cluster should be correct. The temperature sender you need to replace is the one at the back of the head, as shown in the photo posted above in this thread. And you'll need to replace the oil pressure sender, which can come from the donor XJ. Everything else will be plug-n-play -- except for resetting the odometer, and I think you have to take it to a speedometer shop to have that done. I'm not even sure if dealers can do it.

There are retreads, and there are retreads. Do not think that the retreads you can buy at Joe's Tire and Whiffle Ball Emporium are anywhere near the quality they use on aircraft. Whether or not they make sense for you depends on how you will use the vehicle, how much money you'll really save, and how much of a gambler you are. I don't drive fast -- I never go more than about 2 MPH over the speed limit, and I rarely carry heavy loads. I will not put retreads on a daily driver. I might put retreads on a trailer queen, because a flat on a trail may delay things but it probably won't kill me. On pavement, all bets are off. Ever been through a real, honest-to-God blowout? I have -- it was like driving over an IED. Not fun. A good many years ago, when I finished up graduate school, I took off around the middle of September on a cross-country camping trip. I mention September so you'll know it wasn't freezing, but it also wasn't the hottest part of the summer. Somewhere in the mid-west, probably on the Kansas turnpike, I was loafing along at about the speed limit and a fairly late-model Mustang went zooming by me. Yeah, fine, the car I was driving then probably could have sucked his doors off, but I wasn't in race mode I was in vacation mode. I let him go. A few miles down the road I pulled into a Stuckey's for a pit stop, and found the Mustang ... up on a jack. It was a guy about my age and his bride. They were on their honeymoon. And they had just SHREDDED a tire. Sure enough, it was a recap -- except that there was nothing left of the recap. Just the bare tire carcass, with al the cords showing since they shave them before they cap them. You know when you're driving down the highway and you see those long strips of black rubber the truckers call "alligators"? That's because the big trucks run recaps, too ... and they shed from time to time. And I'm pretty sure that since big trucks are under D.O.T. inspection and safety rules, the recaps they get are better than the recaps you're likely to find. Trail only, IMHO. And if you run recaps, be certain your spare is a viable spare.

Dunno. If so it's the first I've heard of it, but I don't know much about the later 4-cylinders. Where's BLHTAZ when we need him?

What year is the MJ? For all years of the MJ the sender for the gauge is the one at the back corner of the head. For 1991 and newer, the sender in the thermostat housing sends data to the ECU.

He got a late-model 231 from an XJ with the electric speedometer. That means it came from one of the years that didn't use the front axle disconnect, so the transfer case has no port to actuate the vacuum to the the disconnect. What I can't figure out is how the transfer case went into an '86. The '86 was a 21-spline, the newer one should be a 23-spline. Bigmrec34, did you swap only the transfer case, or did you swap the transfer case and transmission together?

Check your passenger side carpet. The heater core just sprung a leak in my '88 XJ. :grrrr:

Could you please repeat the question in standard English, without all the TXT MSG abbreviations and acronyms, so us olde phartes can understand what you're asking? I have to be honest -- I'd like to try to help you, but I can't understand anything you wrote. I can't even figure out if you're asking one, two, or three separate questions.

Take it back? Ford has never owned Jeep. If they ever got their hands on it -- they'd ruin it anyway.

The basic rule of thumb for a daily driver vehicle (unless your preference is to just look "big") should be to use the smallest lift necessary for the tires you will run and the terrain you will encounter. I ran my '88 with a 4" lift and 31s for several years and wheeled it all over New England and most of Paragon Offroad Park in Pennsylvania before that closed. I didn't really need even the 4" lift -- that's what was in it when I bought it. A 3" lift would have been fine for all the wheeling I did, and for street use I could have run the 31s with no lift at all. 4" was a nuisance, to be honest. At that height, getting into and out of the truck was breaking down the outside corner of the driver's seat. Once Paragon closed and the greenies started making things difficult for wheeling the Mohawk Trail area of Massachusetts, I took the lift out and I'm much happier driving the truck at stock height. If you're getting a 3" lift -- get a 3" lift, don't allow a 3" lift to persuade you that you really "need" a 6" lift.

Comanche doors ARE 4-door Cherokee front doors. The same modifications are needed to use 97+ Cherokee doors on a Comanche as are needed to use them on a '96 or older Cherokee. If you can find a rust-free MJ and the long wheelbase won't be an issue for your intended use -- don't hesitate. Engines and drive trains can be built and swapped, but they ain't making rust-free (or any other kind of) Comanches any more.