Eagle

DING! :thumbsup: We have a winnah! No relay for the headlights.

:bowdown: :thumbsup: :clapping:

The dashboard for a Cherokee 1984 - 1996 is the same as a Comanche 1986 - 1992. Unless you're trying to use a 97+ XJ console, there is no need to trim the front of the console when you put it in a Comanche. What do you think -- Jeep made a special console for the Eliminator? :redX:

Can you take a pic from the top of the engine looking down at the hose and PS unit? I have an '86 XJ 4-cyl here and an '88 MJ 4-cyl. Both have power steering. I can probably get you a photo over the weekend for comparison to your setup.

I don't think the YJ ever had the 2.8L. It was either the AMC 2.5L 4-cyl or the 258/4.2L AMC I-6. The Iron Duke was used in some years of the Eagle/Hornet/Concord. Dunno if it ever made it into the CJ.

You would imagine wrong. The purpose of a thermostat is to keep the temperature UP. The way it does that is by closing when the temperature drops below the range for that particular thermostat. Once the coolant temperature rises again, the t-stat opens. If you ran 30 miles at 50 MPH with no thermostat, I doubt your operating temperature would ever get high enough to even put the ECU into closed-loop mode. Yes. There are three possibilities here. The sender is one, and the fact it's new does NOT mean that you can believe it's accurate. Second is the gauge itself. Third is wiring. The temperature gauge in my '88 XJ has been riding just above the first tick mark on the gauge for about five years now (whatever temp that corresponds to). But I have good heat. And my gas gauge and voltmeter have also been reading low, for about the same period of time. I'm fairly certain it's because of corrosion/oxidation where the cluster grounds to the chassis, but I know where they normally run so it's not a big deal. As long as I have a needle that I can see if it's NOT where it normally sits, it's okay. (Not ideal, but "okay.")

It's none of my business, but at this point I think it's time for the guy who did the damage to start doing the repairs -- and paying for them. I learned everything I know about cars, trucks and engines building and repairing (and paying for) my own rides. It taught me that there is a price to be paid if you act irresponsibly, and that breaking it really ISN'T so much fun when (a) you have to pay for fixing it, and (B) you don't have any way to get to work on Monday morning.

If you can hear the blower running, then the blower is working. With the lever set to the HEAT position, no air should come out the dash vents. All air is directed to the feet, through the under-dash outlets. If you expect hot air through the face-of-dash outlets when the control is set for HEAT, you haven't read the owner's manual. The a/c isn't working in my '88, either (low freon, so the compressor won't kick in), so I use the BI-LEVEL setting to get heat to both my feet and through the dash vents. It is possible that you have a vaccum leak in the controls. The flappers that direct air are controlled by vacuum motors. If you have a vacuum leak, their default setting is to push air to the top-of-dash DEFROST outlets. If you can't feel air coming from anywhere else, check there.

I have heard the same complaint about Rusty's hook brackets bending on side pulls, and I would recommend the C4x4 kit if you can't find a set of factory brackets in a junk yard.

Ugh. Mud. Drifting. Overheated -- SIX times. All you've done should have cleared it and shown any residue, but my initial reaction was "hydrolock." That might explain some of the thinning of the oil (was there any evidence of water?), and hydrolock could have cracked the top of one or two pistons, which might account for the variations in compression. I just don't know. And, frankly, I don't recommend that you waste any more time trying to find out. Even ONE overheat is death to an engine. I had a heater (not radiator, just a 5/8" heater) hose burst on my hillclimb car just as I left the starting line. The moron corner workers didn't red flag me or black flag me, they let me run the whole course. So I drove something like 3 miles up a dang mountain, pretty much at redline the whole way, with no coolant. Oddly and miraculously enough, once it cooled down (about a month later) the engine started and ran. It ran like crap, had uniformly low compression, and used about as much oil as gasoline ... but it ran. Clearly, the rings were toast. No point in even investigating ... I just yanked the engine and built a bigger one to replace it. I think I gave the old engine to one of the guys in my car club, and he just threw a set of rings in it and put it into a beater-mobile.

:doh:

I've been told that if you bought tow hooks as a factory option, the brackets were welded together. Mine were added later, using Jeep parts room brackets.

Chrysler stopped using the disconnect around 1991. All XJs built since then, as well as the last few years of the MJ and all years of the ZJ, had a solid axle shaft on the right side and no disconnect. That's not what's causing your popping. It sounds like the previous owner may have FUBARed the front locker by driving in 4WD on pavement. If the transfer case is in 2WD, there's no power to the front wheels and a front locker should be free-wheeling, not locked. I'm guessing yours isn't unlocking.

XJ skid plates are TOTALLY different from MJ skid plates. Not even close. [EDIT]Clarification: I'm thinking gas tank skid. Which one do you mean, steering, transfer case, or fuel tank?

Fixed it for you. Lordie, I have a pretty severe fear of heights. There is NO way you'd get me out on that walkway. Especially knowing that concrete without rebar has next to zero strength. I couldn't believe the way the guy just stepped right next to holes ... like, didn't he realize that's where someone else fell through?

I vote black, to match the XJ. But ... as the owner of a black XJ (my wife's ride), I agree it's difficult to keep looking nice.

There is an accessory mounting kit that attaches to the frame where the bumper brackets go, and then the bumper brackets attach to that. Last I knew, both Rusty's and Custom 4x4 both offered essentially the identical kit. Not certain, but it vaguely think I might recall that I may have seen it in a Keystone catalog, too ... but as individual parts rather than as a complete kit. Here ya go: http://www.custom4x4fabrication.com/rec ... l#brackets

I only know one guy (from the NAXJA North Atlantic Chapter) who has converted a D30 to locking hubs. He used the Warn conversion, but I think Milemarker makes a similar one. Personally, I think that's the way the XJ and the MJ should have been equipped from the factory (at least as an option from the factory), but marketing looked at how many people would NOT want to get there toes wet locking the hubs and decided against it. I guess if I had a lot of money I might convert a truck or two just to say I've done it, but in practical terms I don't really think it's worth the cost and effort.

A 205/70R15 is 8.1" wide and has a diameter of 26.3". The "static radius" (which is the height the center of the axle actually sits on a loaded tire) is 12.0" A 205/75R15 is 8.1" wide and has a diameter of 27.1". The static radius is 12.3". Not as bad as I thought, but smaller nonetheless. Even a 195/75 is 26.5" in diameter. They'll work, but they wouldn't be my first choice for a winter tire.

That's what's in the XJ rear license light. Don't know what's in the stock MJ license lights, mine all have aftermarket bumpres and no lights.

You can use it, but the easiest way would be to put your old head on it.

Don't forget that you will need a radiator and a fan to blow cool air through it.

The 2.5L got fuel injection in 1986, one year before the introduction of the 4.0L. Both were Renix-based systems, but the 2.5L had throttle body injection rather than multi-port. Chrysler redesigned the entire ignition/injection system for the 1991 model year, on both the 2.5L and the 4.0L. 1991 and newer 2.5L engines will have multi-port injection, they use a totally different computer and wiring setup, a different flywheel and CPS, and a different fuel pump (I think). The multi-port 2.5 engines put out quite a bit more power than the TBI versions and if you're up to doing all the work to make the upgrade, IMHO it's worthwhile. But it'll be a LOT more work than finding a 90 or earlier 2.5L and dropping it in. Oh -- he wants to keep the manifolds? Not good. I know the ports were raised in 1991 on the 4.0L and the shape of the ports was modified. I never checked, but I suspect the same is true for the 2.5L -- which would mean that you cannot bolt your manifolds on and go.

Definitely AAL. Get a used pair of XJ rear springs, take the main leaves and cut the eyes off, and use them as AALs. You'll need new center pins and a few rebound clips, available from www.huskyspring.com . That should give you about 1-1/2 inches. If you want a bit more, Rancho's full-length AAL for the XJ gives you 2 to 2-1/2 inches. Personally, I prefer to use the XJ main leaves because the arch matches the rest of the spring pack, so you don't have the AAL fighting the rest of the pack.

Yeah ... like about 2,000 RPM higher. IIRC the Renix torque peak was 2,250 RPM. The HO torque eak was 4,000 RPM. Further proving that Chrysler Corporation had zero understanding of what a Jeep really is when they bought Jeep from AMC.