Eagle

Pretty simple if you don't have trouble getting the brake drum off -- about a 1.67-beer job. If the drum is frozen on, it becomes a 12-beer, 5-pound sledge hammer job.

Yes, I noticed. This site is a sort of MJ family/community/reference resource. So you think it's a good idea to ask a question, get all the feedback you can, reject most of it because it doesn't match your preconceptions ... and then erase your tracks. That's not how responsible members of an on-line community act. That type of behavior is usually indicative of a T-R-O-L-L.

Not all strokers have the tabs removed, and not all need them removed. The ONLY reason for having to tinker with the distributor indexing is if an aftermarket camshaft doesn't have the distributor drive gear properly indexed to the cam lobes. If the camshaft is in spec, there's no reason to cut off the locating tabs.

If you are referring to a clutch master cylinder -- do NOT buy it off the Internet. Aftermarket clutch hydraulics typically last about 6 months, maximum. Don't know why, but it seems that only genuine Jeep parts work for this application. It'll cost you a few $$$ more, but get the real deal.

If by DOT 5 you mean silicone -- that's what I've been running in brakes and clutch for years. IMHO it makes even more sense for the clutch, because in the event of a leak the silicone won't trash the fuse panel. (It'll be slippery and wet and messy, but it won't be trashed.)

Unfortunately, you're a couple of years too late. I already donated one MJ to a company who said they needed one for prototyping rear bumpers. There's a line of people still waiting to see the bumpers, and the guy, the company, and my truck have disappeared. I ain't giving any more away.

Nope. Pete and Summerinmaine are correct. The distributor has locating ears on it. The position is fixed and timing is not adjustable. Timing is manipulated by the ECU based on inputs from the CPS and the cam position sensor in the distributor. Let's keep in mind that this is an '87 MJ, with stock gearing and running oversized tires. The Renix 4.0Ls engines were torque engines, not drag race engines, so the owner's expectations may not be realistic for the way these engines work. Automatic won't be as horrible as a 5-speed, but putting larger tires on a Renix MJ without re-gearing does make a very noticeable difference in (lack of) acceleration. And the '87 was rated a few horsepower and foot-pounds lower than the 88-90 versions. If it won't shift going up a hill, the downshift cable probably needs to be adjusted.

Ahah! You have actually done this? I have always maintained that it's possible, but the shop foreman at my dealership swears it can't be done so I never pursued it. Thank you, thank you! How hard a job was it to accomplish?

All you have proven is that you have a temperature signal from the sensor to the diagnostic plug under the hood. Unless you're leaving something out, you haven't verified that the signal is actually reaching the ECU. The switch from open to closed loop IS based on operating temperature. If the signal is reaching the ECU, then you may indeed have a flakey ECU.

Yes. If the ZJ is a V8, they'll probably give you more lift than advertised. XJ Up Country (factory +1") springs are the same part number as ZJ V8 springs.

Clogged catalytic converter.

Which coolant temp sensor was the scan tool reading? There are three, if you have an auxiliary fan. The one on the back of the head only sends data to the gauge; it has nothing to do with operating the engine. The sensor in the radiator tank only controls the auxiliary fan; it also has nothing to do with controlling the engine. The temp sensor that feeds the ECU and actually affects operation of the engine is located down low on the driver's side of the block, near the knock sensor (and sometimes mistaken for the knock sensor). Yes, it is basically just temperature that controls when the Renix system switches from open loop to closed loop mode. Don't discount the possibility that you may simply have a broken wire, so the information is not getting from the temp sensor to the ECU. I would verify that the temp sensor is reading correctly and that the signal is reaching the ECU before I swapped in another ECU.

Wrong. First, you don't have a fuel bowl. Second, the O2 sensor doesn't flip into closed loop mode, the ECU does. And it does so when the operating temperature reaches the "normal" range, which is around 165 to 168 degrees, as reported by the temp sensor in the side of the block (not the one on the back of the head ... that one only feeds the gauge). If you aren't getting into closed loop mode, your ECU is simply ignoring the O2 sensor and running in "warm-up" (open loop) mode all the time. You most likely either have a bad temp sensor or a bad ECU. Start by checking the wiring between the temp sensor and the ECU to be sure you have a circuit.

Older S10. Early to mid-90s, IIRC. There was a guy who posted the exact information a couple of years ago but I don't remember what he used for a screen name here. I knew him from NAXJA, and his father used to sell caps. I'm using a used S10 utility cap on one of my shortbeds and it fits perfectly ... but I don't know what year truck it had been installed on.

You can disconnect and plug the hoses going into and out of the heater core, or just stick a short length of copper tubing in the ends to make it a continuous loop under the hood, with nothing flowing through the heater. You won't have heat, but you also won't have leaks.

In my case, the CPS is brand new. Less than a year old and probably doesn't have 2,500 miles on it. It is always possible that it's defective, but it's a Jeep factory CPS and they very rarely spit out a bad one.

I assure you, if you think swapping in a 4.0L is a lot of work, doing a Chevy 4.3 will be ten times more work. NOTHING will be bolt-in, and EVERYTHING will have to be custom adapted. A guy a few miles from me used to have an XJ with a 4.3 in it. I asked him once if he'd do it again. His answer was unprintable in a family-oriented forum, but the bottom line was "Hell [insert expletive of choice] NO!" Remember, a 4.3 is just a small-block Chebbie with two less cylinder. For the work and fabrication involved, you might as well go with e 327/350. By contrast, everything you need for a 4.0L swap has already been designed and mass-produced. All you have to do is drop it in.

^^^ What he said.

That has been suggested, and that is NOT what I wanted to hear. But -- it may well be the problem. :roll:

The ignition module is on the list of suspects. Before actually swapping it, I want to generate the fault where I can work on it so I can test to see if the missing ingredient is fuel or spark.

In my case, no. I have shifted relays around and it makes no difference. And it isn't a loose wire. It is time/temperature related. I drive for maybe 15 minutes, and suddenly the power dies off and it stops. And WILL NOT restart. Sit by the side of the road for 30 to 45 minutes, and it starts up like there was never anything wrong. Something is getting heat soaked, but I can't figure out what unless/until I can get it to die while sitting in my yard, where I can unleash the testing crew on it without risk of getting clipped by a passing 18-wheeler.

My '88 has been doing the same thing, and somebody else also reported this happening. In my case, I checked the ballast resistor and that was NOT the problem. Still baffled. Problem is, it's hard to test because I can't predict when/where it will happen. AAA only gives me four tows a year, and I don't want to use them all on the heap and have to go for eight months with no safety net for my wife, so I have been limiting use of the MJ to short trips that I'm fairly certain won't cause a stoppage. That avoids tows, but doesn't provide opportunities for trouble-shooting.

Loss of vacuum doesn't cause loss of heat or a/c. What is does is cause the flappers inside the vents to move to the default position, which is through the defrost vents on the top of the dash. So if you're cruising along on a zero degrees day with hot air warming your toes, and you go up a long hill and your feet suddenly feel cold -- put your hand up on top of the dash and you'll probably feel the hot air coming out there. As noted, running with a busted "blimp" creates a vaccum leak, and that's never a good thing.

Well, not hissing now... can't take it for a spin to warm it back up since I got RugRat duty tonight... if it's a "leak", are we most likely talking just the cap, or the whole stinkin' bottle? (Where do I get either one of those other than a JY?) You do NOT buy just a cap. Guaranteed to NOT seal on an old bottle. Quadratec used to sell the complete bottle and cap assembly for $19. Of course, that's for another plastic fantastic. I prefer the several all-metal solutions that have surfaced recently, despite their initial higher cost. Oops. It's up to $25 now. Not a surprise -- I haven't priced them for several years: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52449_1493.htm

It should not be boiling (bubbling). If it is, that means it's either a bunch hotter than it should be, or the cap isn't holding pressure. Remember, higher pressure raises the boiling point of a liquid. That's the whole reason for radiators to have pressure caps.