Eagle

Odds are it's the idler pulley. They should be considered a "consumable."

I didn't know that. End of discussion ...

I believe the 2.5L radiator has a conventional radiator cap and the overflow bottle IS an overflow bottle. Fill the bottle 1/3 full with new coolant, fill the radiator right up to the neck, install the cap and drive it.

Gotta disagree, CW. Obama isn't a "polished speaker" at all. Oh, sure, he does fine when he's reading the screen of a teleprompter. But if the teleprompter fails, or when he's on his own like in these debates, he can't string together half a dozen coherent words. Of itself, that might not be terrible. I'm sure there have been decent (if not great) presidents who weren't great orators. The scary part is that as a candidate for President, this man is supposed to be convincing us that he has a "plan" for America. He's been on the campaign trail for six months or more, giving speeches at least once a day, and probably two or maybe three times a day. So why is it that when his teleprompter goes down and he has actually "speak" (as opposed to "read"), he can't even remember what his plan is? To me it says two things: (1) He doesn't have a plan, and (2) He doesn't write his own speeches. Most major politicians to day don't write their own speeches, but they at least have some control over them so they know what they read will reflect what they believe. Obama literally still doesn't know what he's saying when he reads those speeches. He's not telling us anything about who he is or what he believes -- he is only reading empty words that a team of writers puts together to sell their candidate. It's discouraging, is what it is. It isn't limited to the Democrats, either. [Disclaimer] If any of you are old enough to have been following politics when George H. W. Bush (George I) was running for President, some journalist once asked him what his plans were regarding the direction of the country. His response: "Read my lips. I'm going to be President of the United States." In other words, he HAD no plan. His lack-luster, one-term presidency proved that beyond any doubt. With Obama, we would be getting the same thing, wrapped in a Democrat wrapper. I believe they have an expression in Texas for people like this: "All hat and no horse."

Sounds great, but I can reliably report that it hasn't gotten me a job yet. :cry:

I think anywhere "downstream" from the gauges would be a ground anyway, unless I'm visualizing the cluster wiring backwards. You can certainly test the gauges themselves -- hook up a pair of test leads to a 9-volt transistor battery and apply to the terminals of each gauge. They should move. That would show they are still alive. Next thing I think I might try would be to identify the bad wire. Somebody corect me if this WON'T work: Normally, I believe the colored wires in the bundle that plugs into the back of the cluster mostly carry either 12 volts positive, or 12-volts modulated by the variable resistance of the various senders. If one of those conductors has been compromised to ground, you should be able to back-feed it from the cluster end with a test light hooked to the positive terminal of the battery. As long as you touch a wire that's intact, you're not closing a circuit. If you hit a ground wire the light should light. And ... if you hit a wire that's supposed to feed a gauge but the light lights -- that's one to check for being shorted to ground.

Only if you have a clutch-type limited slip (such as the factory optional Trac-Lok).

Well, you obviously fried something -- the question is what? Are you certain you had the charger hooked up correctly when you had it on boost? Whatever you fried must be melted to ground. If you had just overloaded a wire to the point of buring through, it would leave an open circuit. If you're blowing fuses, there's a short circuit directly to ground -- and it has to be upstream from the gauges, because after the gauges ... ground is ground. If you stick your head under the dashboard, can you see any obviously charred wires, or smell any melted plastic type odors?

The picture looks very good for a 20-year old MJ. Whether it's worth the asking price is your decision. If I had it, I'd pay it -- but then I wouldn't drive it in winter, and I sure as aitch-eee-double hockey sticks wouldn't butcher it using it as a trail rig. "Restore" means restore. You can buy MJs out of junkyards for $100 if you want a trail rig.

I have two advertised in the Classifieds right now, and a third that I could be persuaded to part company with for sufficient infusions of legal tender. Where are you located? (Send me a PM if you don't want to "go public.")

When you say "basement," are you referring to a real basement, that you can walk into down a stair and stand up in? Or are you referring to a slab-on-ground foundation? I'd have to see a graphic representation of what you mean by a telepost and beam. If a part of the foundation is shearing off from the rest of the house, I don't think that's likely to correct anything. It might even make things worse. I'm a part-time building inspector and we had a new house a few years ago that DID break off and start downhill. It was before my time so I wasn;t involved, but I have heard the boss mention it. The real solution might by to pump grout in under the foundations. Without knowing more about the specifics of your particular situation I won't try to be any more specific than that. For background, try Google for "mud jacking."

If it's not a 5-cell rechargeable, we don't want to hear about it.

It's never too late. Keep trying ...

If the cluster is coming from a 4.0 and going into a 4.0, then there isnt any adjustments needed. how about a 4.0 going into a 2.5? A tach from a 4.0L going into a 2.5L will have to be adjusted. It will read wrong by a considerable margin. All a tach does is count ignition pulses. On a 6-cylinder engine, one revolution is 3 pulses. On a 4-cylinder engine, one revolution is only 2 pulses. It takes the 4-cylinder 1-1/2 revolutions to generate 3 pulses, but the tach will only show 1, so if the tach says the engine is turning 1,000 RPM, it will actually be turning 1,500. If the tach says 3,000, the actual RPMs will be 4,500.

Check your fluid level? Maybe what you think is "clicking" is the pump cavitating (pumping air).

I will look and see next chance I get, but it may take a couple days. Should it be a code that I will recognize as indicating that fact or will it be some obscure code that I have to decipher through means that I don't know exist yet? Well, seeing as how you're the parts guru who works in a dealership, I guess the answer to both questions is "Yes." But ... since you're a decent sort of chap, we'll give you a free pass on this one: Just behind (as in, toward the rear of the vehicle) of the distributor on the right side of the block there is a boss. The 1988 I-6 engine manual shows it having a recessed, square drive plug in it. That's actually a carry-over from the older 4.2L engines. On the 4.0L, the oil pressure sender fitting takes the place of the recessed plug -- the boss is directly above the oil filter adapter plate. IF there is a bearing code for your engine, it will be stamped into that boss. The codes are: B = All cylinder bores 0.010" oversize M = All main bearing journals 0.010" undersize P = All rod bearing journals 0.010" undersize C = All camshaft bearing bores 0.010" oversize.

Back off the adjusting screw maybe 1/4 turn and see if the click disappears. If so ... drive it and see if the steering is at all improved. When you adjusted it, you were careful to have the wheels pointed straight ahead, right? That is VERY important.

As stated, they are from the Mopar Performance Catalog and not specific to Jeeps. No, there are not different part numbers. The perches are cut to fit the tubes on a Chrysler 8-1/4 axle, which means they are a loose fit on both a D35 and a D44. You either grind the arc to fit the axle, or fill in the gap at the ends with weld metal.

Out of curiosity -- the factory sometimes used rods and/or mains that were cut .010 under. When they did, they put a code on the side of the block ... near the distributor, IIRC. Does your block have the code indicating your bearings were undersized from the factory?

Always keep in mind what my grandfather told me when I was a wee lad (now THAT's going back awhile): "People who think they know everything are particularly annoying to those of us who do." Think about it ... it'll come to you :cheers:

Your junkyard lied. The only one that can't be replicated out of an XJ is the one for an automatic with column shift. There were no XJs with column shift (well, except for some fleet vehicles, but it's highly unlikely you'll find on in a JY).

The Mopar perches are extremely heavy duty, a bit longer than the stock perches, and CHEAP. That price CW quoted is for a pair, not each. When I went to order them at my dealership, he gave me the price and I said "Huh? That's gotta be for one, better order me two." So they did. And that's what I received -- two PAIRS of the nicest, heaviest spring perches I've seen this side of a Mack truck. They are in the Mopar Performance Catalog, they are not specific to Jeeps. You can order them at any Mopar dealership.

I'll certainly keep him in mind the next time I'm looking for a JEPP [sic]

Many years ago I read a report on a psychological study about competency. They went into some large company and rated the employees on how competent they were. Then they had the employees rate themselves on how competent they thought they were. I may not surprise you to learn that the people who were rated as the least competent were those who rated themselves the highest, while those who were actually highly competent tended to rate themselves lower -- probably because they felt there is always room for improvement. Which is akin to what we encounter on Errornet forums. The people who are hopelessly wrong are also the ones who are arrogant enough to (a) not know it, and (B) not accept it when they are shown to be wrong. I've largely given up trying. That's one of the reasons I don't post on NAXJA any more.

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