Eagle

Yupp. Plug-n-Play

Yeah, this is true. I certainly agree a Comanche is superior to a Ranger but, remembering the old adage that "Age and craft beat youth and vigor," take it from an Olde Pharte -- you have now succeeded in putting him DOWN. Never EVER give in to the temptation to accept a rematch. There is nothing to be gained by putting your bragging rights at risk. The title is yours to lose ... so don't lose it.

Here's a thought -- and a LOT depends on the law in your state: If you are having accident damage to your own vehicle repaired by your own insurance company under a collision policy, they pretty much get to call the shots as far as determining that the cost to repair is more than the book value, so here's your check have a nice day. But I have been led to believe that it's a VERY different story when the other driver is at fault. You didn't ask to be hit. Along the same line that says if you drive a Ford Ranger they MUST replace your fender with a genuine Ford fender if you ask for it, I believe you can also just say "Hey, I drive a Jeep Comanche because that's what I choose to drive. I can't buy another one for what you're offering, so just repair mine to the condition it was in when YOUR client hit me, thank you. How much it costs is your problem, not my problem. And oh, by the way -- I want all Jeep parts!" Ask your lawyer, or your insurance agent. Don't let the other driver's insurance company buffalo you.

Yeah, but you're forgiven, 'cause you made such an elegant patcherooski.

If you are keeping the MJ front metering block (it is not a proprtioning valve on the MJ, although it is in the XJ), you plug the forward outlet on the bottom, and you use the outlet on the "nose" to feed the rear brakes.

"Skank": One who is disgustingly foul or filthy and often considered sexually promiscuous. Used especially of a woman or girl. Skank is slang and a pejorative term used in English to describe a certain type of female. The term "skank" differs from that of "slut" in that whereas the latter implies only sexual promiscuity; the former also implies poor taste, personally degrading behaviour and low socioeconomic class. a person and especially a woman of low or sleazy character ---------------------------------------------- The term "skank" goes back at least to when I was in high school, which (sadly) was before most of you were even born. The above definitions are still pretty accurate. Ain't no way I can see how the Gov could be described as a "skank."

If you replace the fuel pump, yes you should replace the "sock" and the lock ring gasket (O-ring). And please let us know if that solves the problem, because my '88 is doing exactly the same thing and I haven't solved it yet. I tried bypassing the ballast resistor and that didn't help, so I'm trying to think of ways to trouble shoot on the side of the road before I spring for a new fuel pump that may or may not be the answer.

^^^ 90+ percent of the time the problem is the socket.

as always with jeep items, this is not a 100% set-in-stone prerequisite for being an eliminator or pioneer package. I've had two pioneers now, which had dummy lights from the factory. Unless you bought it new yourself, you do not know that it was that way "from the factory." I bought my '88 XJ as a Pioneer specifically because that was the lowest trim level that had full instrumentation. The option list was the same for the MJs and the XJ. I also have two used XJ Pioneers here, one an '86 4-cyl and the other is an '89 6-cyl. Both have gauges but no tach. If you bought a Pioneer with idiot lights, IMHO it's 99.99% certain that a previous owner removed the gauges.

I've know XJ guys wanting REAL clearance to remove the inner wells entirely and make their own -- larger -- tubs to weld in. I don't know if the wheel well shells are structurally part of the unibody, so if I were doing it I'd make them out of decent stock and weld in place. But maybe that's overkill.

The Pioneer was a mid-level trim package. The Eliminator was the top of the line package. The Pioneer got you a 3-spoke Sport steering wheel, fabric upholstery, carpets instead of rubber floor mat, and gauges instead of idiot lights. The Eliminator added bucket seats, full console, show bar, and alloy rims.

I don't get it much either, but to claim it takes no skill is ridiculous ;) Not if you live in snow country and grew up practicing power drifts on snow and ice on the way home from school every day. Piece of cake.

Last winter I took my MJ to a shop I had used to bail me out in the past. I had a no-start, and a badly sprained back so I was in no condition to be crawing under a truck in the snow trying to solve problems. I got it back two MONTHS later. While they had it they: * Killed the battery (probably ran it down trying to start it, then parked it outside to freeze) * Blew out my rear brakes * Broke the right side cable on the parking brake * May (or may not) have done something to contribute to the fact that I now cannot drive more than about 4 or 5 miles without the truck dying in the middle of the road. This shop recently "reorganized." They changed the physical layout, and brought in a new service manager (who doesn't even speak English very well). The tech that's a fellow Jeeper and whom I had always considered my "go to guy" for work I couldn't or didn't want to do myself? The new service manager laid him off because he wasn't "productive" enough. Maybe that's because he took the time to actually FIX things, so his jobs wouldn't keep coming back. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me. I'm not looking for twice. They'll not see me in there again.

Yeah, it looks like someone decided to create a new name for the people I used to run autocrosses against. Back then, we called them "losers" because they couldn't drive. So now we clap louder for the people who drive the worst? I don't get it. I really am getting too old ...

This may help: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11693

I just learned that she drift races with one of her sons. I gotta admit, I was not expecting that. ???? What's drift racing?

Worn synchros

JT, even my brother, the world's greatest technophobe, has a digital camera.

Maybe this will help. Jeep tech note I.S. 14E explains how to check the ride height on a Comanche. They use the chassis and suspension not the hubs and flares. Front: ------ Measure vertical distance between top of axle tube (looks like just inboard of the LCA mount) to the under side of the frame rail. For the passenger side, measure from the axle tube just outboard of the vacuum disconnect housing. The book says for 2WD models the distance should be 6-3/4" +/- 1/2". For 4WD models the distance should be 7-3/4" +/- 1/2" Rear: ------ Measure from the top of the axle tube to the underside of the frame rail inboard of the rubber bump stop. For 2WD the distance should be 8.2" +/- 1/2". For 4WD models the distance should be 9.2" +/- 1/2" So there you have it. That's the official specs.

Here's some background: http://www.olive-drab.com/od_mvg_www_kaiser.php3 If it were mine, I'd try to restore it like the second one shown in the link

235/75R15s are almost exactly the same size as 30x9.50s. You don't need any lift to run 235s, and IMHO anything more than a 2" budget boost will look silly.

Yeah, the pics aren't as clear as the Canon takes -- but the whole cheap camera cost less than a memory card for the Canon. Be a big spender -- move up to the $39.99 model. They have a few "name" brands digitals over in the "real" camera area for under $100.

It ain't over 'til it's over. My '88 MJ had less than 100k when I bought it, and the steering box was toast. Bottomed out the screw and made NO improvement. My '88 XJ is at 277k, has the original steering box, and it has never been touched. It's all a function of how badly previous owners abused it.

Absolutely, positively, beyond any shadow of a doubt correct. If the adjuster screw bottoms out and you still have slop, the box is toast.

First - be SURE that the steering wheel and front wheels are straight ahead. What you are adjusting is the worm gear operating clearance (lash), and there is more lash when it's off center so if you adjust it off-center, it's too tight across the center and it will damage the steering box. Remove the air box to access the top of the steering box. You'll see a top cover held on with three bolts. In the center of the cover is a stud with a recess for a hex wrench, and a lock nut. That's the adjuster. Unlock the steering column, but do not start the engine. The steering wheel has to be free to turn. Hold the adjusting screw with an Allen wrench and loosen the lock nut several turns. Now ... use your left hand to turn the Allen wrench while with your right hand you grip the steering shaft just behind where it enters the box. Turn it gently back and forth. You'll feel where it's slack and when it engages and is actually trying to turn the front wheels. What you want to do is turn the adjusting screw down until that range of slack motion is almost completely eliminated. You need a little bit of "lash" to ensure that the box isn't binding. Don't forget, it gets hotter when you drive and clearances tighten up from the heat. Once you have most of the slop adjusted out, hold the adjuster in position with the Allen wrench and tighten the lock nut. Replace he air box and test drive.