Eagle

I will look and see next chance I get, but it may take a couple days. Should it be a code that I will recognize as indicating that fact or will it be some obscure code that I have to decipher through means that I don't know exist yet? Well, seeing as how you're the parts guru who works in a dealership, I guess the answer to both questions is "Yes." But ... since you're a decent sort of chap, we'll give you a free pass on this one: Just behind (as in, toward the rear of the vehicle) of the distributor on the right side of the block there is a boss. The 1988 I-6 engine manual shows it having a recessed, square drive plug in it. That's actually a carry-over from the older 4.2L engines. On the 4.0L, the oil pressure sender fitting takes the place of the recessed plug -- the boss is directly above the oil filter adapter plate. IF there is a bearing code for your engine, it will be stamped into that boss. The codes are: B = All cylinder bores 0.010" oversize M = All main bearing journals 0.010" undersize P = All rod bearing journals 0.010" undersize C = All camshaft bearing bores 0.010" oversize.

Back off the adjusting screw maybe 1/4 turn and see if the click disappears. If so ... drive it and see if the steering is at all improved. When you adjusted it, you were careful to have the wheels pointed straight ahead, right? That is VERY important.

As stated, they are from the Mopar Performance Catalog and not specific to Jeeps. No, there are not different part numbers. The perches are cut to fit the tubes on a Chrysler 8-1/4 axle, which means they are a loose fit on both a D35 and a D44. You either grind the arc to fit the axle, or fill in the gap at the ends with weld metal.

Out of curiosity -- the factory sometimes used rods and/or mains that were cut .010 under. When they did, they put a code on the side of the block ... near the distributor, IIRC. Does your block have the code indicating your bearings were undersized from the factory?

Always keep in mind what my grandfather told me when I was a wee lad (now THAT's going back awhile): "People who think they know everything are particularly annoying to those of us who do." Think about it ... it'll come to you :cheers:

Your junkyard lied. The only one that can't be replicated out of an XJ is the one for an automatic with column shift. There were no XJs with column shift (well, except for some fleet vehicles, but it's highly unlikely you'll find on in a JY).

The Mopar perches are extremely heavy duty, a bit longer than the stock perches, and CHEAP. That price CW quoted is for a pair, not each. When I went to order them at my dealership, he gave me the price and I said "Huh? That's gotta be for one, better order me two." So they did. And that's what I received -- two PAIRS of the nicest, heaviest spring perches I've seen this side of a Mack truck. They are in the Mopar Performance Catalog, they are not specific to Jeeps. You can order them at any Mopar dealership.

I'll certainly keep him in mind the next time I'm looking for a JEPP [sic]

Many years ago I read a report on a psychological study about competency. They went into some large company and rated the employees on how competent they were. Then they had the employees rate themselves on how competent they thought they were. I may not surprise you to learn that the people who were rated as the least competent were those who rated themselves the highest, while those who were actually highly competent tended to rate themselves lower -- probably because they felt there is always room for improvement. Which is akin to what we encounter on Errornet forums. The people who are hopelessly wrong are also the ones who are arrogant enough to (a) not know it, and (B) not accept it when they are shown to be wrong. I've largely given up trying. That's one of the reasons I don't post on NAXJA any more.

Older S-10 Chebbies

OUCH! I wonder if the driver survived ...

Yes. Fully interchangeable.

Transfer case drop helps with the angle, but doesn't add any length.

Track bars are not specific to 4WD. Any bar that fits a 4WD will also fit a 2WD. The issue will be to ensure that the one you buy allows for correct adjustment for lifts as low as 3". Some of them won't go short enough for that amount of lift.

CORRECT! You want to remove the steering box from the chassis -- that's the three bolts through the frame into the side of the box. The three bolts on top just open the box up to work on it.

Unfortunately, I could have helped you a month ago, but not now. I kept the FSM from my ill-fated 1999 WJ, but a friend recently acquired a used 2002 WJ and I sent the shop manual to him. Sorry.

5-1/2 inches is too much on an XJ for the stock drive shaft. Tell him NOT to drive it. Several years ago a friend in NAXJA bumped his lift up from 3" to 5". He went for a test drive and the drive shaft fell out half a mile down the road. Mangled the drive shaft, but fortunately didn't trash the rear pinion yoke, so a different drive shaft and he was good to go. The YJ yoke is, as Pete said, a suitable compromise. It is slightly longer, and it's more open so it will operate at a higher angle without binding. Long term, your friend needs a different drive shaft and, ideally, a SYE.

There's a switch inside that tach to set it for 4-cyl, 6-cyl or 8-cyl. Did you set the switch in the right place? 1500 RPM is too high for idle speed.

You're still not reading it correctly. It's 235/75R15. These sites may help you understand the numbers better: http://www.car-videos.net/info/tirespecs.asp http://www.buicks.net/shop/reference/tires.html http://www.wheelmax.com/Tire-Size-Descr ... icle34.asp

There are three possibilities: the slave cylinder, the clutch master cylinder, and the line/hose that connects them. I've not had a master blow out on my (yet), but I have had both a slave cylinder and a hose blow out on me while driving.

Looking at some tire data I compiled awhile ago, a 195/75R15 was rated at 760.7 revolutions per mile. A 225/75R15 was rated at 713.1 revolutions per mile. That's a difference of 6.26 percent, which is how much the speedometer and odometer will be off (assuming they were somewhat accurate with the stock tires). If we apply that to a calculated fuel consumption of 14 MPG, the corrected figure comes out to 14.8 MPG. Still quite a bit short of what it should be.

It's not only possible, it is probable. Is that what's listed on the sidewall as the tire size? I never heard of that size. A stock 2.5L MJ should probably have had 205/75R15 or 215/75R15 tires. Either of those would be quite a bit larger than a 23" tire. If you are running a tire that small with the stock speedometer gear, you are not really traveling as far as your odometer says you are traveling. Which would make your real-world gas mileage WORSE, not better. Check those brakes.

Is your Chebby 350 injected and computer controlled, or "old school" carburetor and distributor? Back in "the good old days" we always ran colder thermostats than the factory, and got better performance and better fuel mileage. Probably didn't help emissions much, but testing was rudimentary back then. The Jeep computers don't come out of open loop (warm-up) mode until around 168 degrees, so running a 160-degree t-stat is indeed (as explained above) likely to result in a truck that runs "pig rich" all the time. Since the purpose of a thermostst is to keep the temperature UP, not down, there is no reason whatsoever to run a colder t-stat than the factory 195-degree. Let's face it -- if your radiator is so fubarred it can't cool the engine down to 195, how do you think it's going to cool it to 180 or 160? Also, be careful in reading that factory gauge. Aside from the tolerance, remember that it does NOT read on a linear scale. I see posts like "My Jeep runs at 231.3 degrees" and I wonder "How the hell can you read that gauge to any semblance of precision?" "Cold" is marked as 100 degrees. Halfway, or straight up, is 210 degrees. So the first half of the needle's range is 110 degrees. "Hot" is what -- 280 (IIRC)? So an equal swing on the upper end of the scale is only 70 degrees. So the needle isn't on a linear scale, folks. Good luck guessing what it's actually reporting if it's anywhere other than right on 210.

Nope. Not automatics behind the 4.0L. Only one -- the Aisin-Warner AW4. It's one of the best automatic transmissions ever made, so don't worry about searching out something else tp "upgrade."

Around here we refer to it as "the 5-pound Ford carburetor adjusting tool."