Eagle

Yeah, the camera takes a micro-SD card, and Wal-Mart has those with two adapters to fit different readers and devices. But they want $25 or $30 for the only size they have, and I'm not sure it's worth it to me for the once or twice in my life I might decide to use the camera feature in the phone. I can't believe they put the camera there with NO provision for getting the pictures out. But I can't see any port for a mini-USB connector. That's what I was looking for -- I already have that cable on the computer, from a "real" digital camera. That would have been a slam dunk ... which of course means there's no way it could possibly be that easy.

Please help out a technology-challenged senior citizen here. I have an LG camera phone (Verizon, phone is about a year old, I guess). At this point, no supplemental memory card. Instructions tell me how to take pictures. I can't see any port with which to connect to a computer to transfer the pics to the hard drive (or CD, or ___). What am I missing? If I want to be able to actually DO anything with pics on the camera phone, do I have to buy a supplemental memory card so I can plug it into a card reader on the computer?

Canon A-series. Mine is a PowerShot A-580, but I think they are now selling the A-680. Should cost you about $189 at Wal-Mart

The body should NOT move relative to the axle when you turn the wheels. Since it's the track bar that prevents that lateral movement, if the body does shift when turning, you have a track bar (or bracket) problem. And that causes "vague" and sloppy steering, as well.

There is no way to anticipate how many MJs there might be. The Great American Jeep Rally isn't a "rally," it's more of a car show for Jeeps. ALL Jeeps, and in previous years they have been liberal enough about what constitutes a "Jeep" to allow a guy to bring in an AM General Army surplus deuce and a half. There will be hundreds of Jeeps, but there might be only half a dozen MJs. If I go, more than likely I'll have to take an XJ. Somers is an hour and a half from home, and right now my MJ doesn't like to run more than 10 or 15 minutes before cutting out.

Great timing. I was just wondering last night when this might be coming up. Thanks.

Hey, guys, I see that header ends in two outlets, one for the front 3 cylinders and one for the back three. Given the firing order, that means if you were to run a true dual exhaust, it should alternate power pulses side to side. Has anyone tried that? I'd be very curious to know if it helps make the I-6 sound more like a V-8 rather than a tired old lobster boat.

Mine has a/c and all four relays ...

Left hand (driver's side) tank, about halfway down.

Now that you mention it, I believe you are correct. I have read that, but I've never encountered one (that I know of) from that vintage with ABS so I haven't verified or refuted it.

Went out when I got home from work and tried starting the MJ. As always -- started right up. But ... get this - ALL those diagrams of which relay is which are either wrong, or my MJ is wrong. Having found two conflicting diagrams and descriptions, I took the cowards way out and pulled all four relays, then stuck them back one-by-one until I heard the fuel pump run when I first turned the key. The one that got the fuel pump running was the one all the way to the front. I'll have to do the same thing on the '88 XJ in the morning, after it has had time to bleed off the pressure.

Not trying to hijack this thread, but the TSB is for 4.0L trucks. Is there the same problem with the 2.5? Probably. I have an '88 MJ 4-banger and it also has the C101 connector, so I would expect that the CPS (being the exact same part as used in the 4.0L) suffers the same signal loss and would benefit equally from being wired directly to the ECU.

No, Chrysler changed the XJ in mid-year 99 to use a low-pinion D30 in the front. That's why CW said to look for a 97 thru 99 -- it'll have the larger u-joints but still be a high pinion. XJ D30s from previous years with Selec-Trac will be free of the disconnect, but will have the smaller u-joints. However, since Selec-Trac wasn't offered with the 4-cylinder engine, it's unlikely to find one that has 4.10 gears without the disconnect earlier than 91 or 92 -- whatever year Chrysler simply stopped using the disconnect on the XJ.

"A chicken in every pot and a Jeep Comanche in every garage"

Looks pretty clean. I'd leave the bottom end alone, do a light clean-up on the valves, install new seals and lifters, and button it up.

Used gears are almost always noisy, because you can't match the original mesh pattern. I would suggest regearing the D44 in the rear, and buying a D30 from a 4-banger XJ for the front. Since you'll need to change the carrier in the rea, this might also be the time to consider a few extra bucks to install a limited slip. The factory-option Trac-Loc is the least expensive, but IMHO a TrueTrac is a better unit for the type of use I think you'll be encountering. No clutches to wear, and no friction modifier required. And I agree with the recommendation to check prices with Dirk.

This has happened three times, each time after driving on local roads for about 4 miles (maybe 10 minutes). The first time it restarted after about 45 minutes and drove home. The second time it restarted after 30 minutes and drive home. I didn't have time to waste today, so I had it towed. Funny thing is, I've made the same run twice with no problem between episide #2 and today. CPS and harness are brand new. Possibly defective, but highly unlikely. I was thinking fuel pump relay, too. Anybody remember which one of the four is fuel pump? Or have a link to that picture that shows them and IDs them?

Drove a load of grass clippings to the transfer station, about two miles. Fine. Drove another two miles to the post office. Fine Drove around the block on the way to Mickey D's for lunch, and it died in the middle of the street just as I got to a light. And would not restart. This time I was (somewhat) prepared, with a jumper wire. I jumpered the fuel pump ballast resistor ... and it still wouldn't start. The middle of a busy intersection is not the place to be trouble-shooting, so I called AAA and had it hauled home. This is becoming a nuisance. I have to get this truck reliable again. Who has any suggestions? If it isn't the fuel pump resistor, could it be the fuel pump itself? 1988 4.0L, 5-speed. The CPS is brand new, and has the bypass harness installed. Amd the truck runs perfectly when it runs -- right up to a brief stumble, and then it dies.

You don't need the lock plate remover just to swap the steering wheel, if that's all you're doing. You will need it if you want to access the turn signal switch and other stuff at the top of the steering column.

Check your caster angle and camber. It may be that what you're experiencing is normal but you're not accustomed to Jeeps with 4WD. The caster angle is set to around 7 degrees positive, which means that if you could turn the front wheels perpendicular to the vehicle, the tops of the front tires would be leaning back -- sort of like picking up the toe of your boot and digging in your heel to stop sliding on loose dirt. When you turn the front wheels all the way to lock, you don't get the full 7 degrees but you DO get some of it. That may cause some hop on some surfaces. It's interesting that one of your steering stops is fubar. Does the hop seem worse when you turn toward that side?

There's a guy on NAXJA who posts as "5-90" or something like that who sells a heavy duty replacement for that wire, made of welding cable. I don't think there is a diode in that wire, I think it's a fusible link. Go to a marine supply store and buy a 100-amp in-line fuse with screw connections on the ends.

3.07s and 31s are rather sucky even without a camper. That's how my '88 was when I bought it. I put in a set of 3.73s, but only because I already had them here (they had been destined for the XJ, with the intention of running 30x9.50 tires) so I used what I had. If I had been buying gears specifically to run with 31s, I would have chosen 4.10s. The 3.73s with 31x10.50s have the exact same overall final drive ratio (RPMs to MPH) as stock tires with 3.55 gears. To routinely carry a camper 4.10s would be far better.

You can put anything on, if you're willing to make up your own brackets and adapters. There's no way the factory front brackets from any year XJ will fit the rear of an MJ. Oops -- you meant update an old front bumper with a 99? The brackets are the same, but you'll have to trim the fenders and flares.

I may be remembering incorrectly, but I used to spend a lot of time on the stroker e-group in the days before I decided it wasn't worth the money and aggravation (for me) to build a stroker. There was a lot of discussion about buying one particular brand of aftermarket piston, or trying to find a source in Mexico for VAM pistons, to get slugs with enough meat on top to dish them out to reduce compression. The other approach some people took was to deck the block in the hope that achieving a near-ideal quench height would offset the increased compression. However, actual results with that approach varied, and the people who had the best results were those who also used aftermarket cams with lots of overlap. That resulted in a high mathematical compression ratio, but lower actual compression pressure due to the loss of some compression before the exhaust valve closed.

The brackets are completely different