Eagle

Also try truck stops. I think I know what you have in mind -- sort of like "The Club" but with a rod that goes down to lock into/onto the peddles.

Dude ruined her whole evening. She probably didn't even stay to see the second half. You just have to hope they aren't weren't living together ...

This place is like NAXJA was "in the beginning." In a way, it's probably a blessing there are so few MJs, because that means it's not likely we'll ever see the inundation of smart mouths that has ruined NAXJA in recent years. Perhaps masochism (as in shared devotion to a dinosaur vehicle that was never more than an afterthought anyway) is a powerful common bond ... Anyhoo, I second CWs thoughts and I join in hoping we can always keep it this way. And I also (again) thank Pete for making this place possible.

Nope -- sorry. The RMS can be replaced on the 4.0L by just dropping the pan, because it's a 2-piece seal. For some inexlicable reason, they used a 1-piece seal on the 2.5L. You have to pull the tranny and flywheel to change it.

Another vote for Pete's idea. I've done it in the past. It only failed once.

Backspacing is even more of a problem in the back than it is in the front. In the front, you can use WJ lower control arms, and shim the steering stops. In the rear ... ... in the rear, on stock 15x7 rims a 31x10.50 will rub the inner sidewall against the inside surface of the fender/box if there's any off-camber articulation in the axle at all -- plus the sidewalls run perilously close to the spring packs, which can have some comparatively sharp corners that don't play nicely with sidewalls. I would say a 10.50 is the absolute widest tire you can put on the rear with rims that use the factory 5-1/4" backspacing. BTW -- this seems sort of like a tech-ish question, so I think I'll move it over to "Tech."

You mean the 2-door Bushwhackers? Yeah, they might work, because they are intended to go on an XJ after you open up the stock wheel opening. On an MJ I guess you would need to trial mount them first and mark where they extend to, and then see how much material you can actually trim. It will be less than on an XJ. It's an expensive experiment if they don't fit, though. I would want to see some photos and maybe some measurements before I plunked down my hard-earned cash on a set, but if they will work they'd probably look pretty nice.

You may have been led to believe that, but you would have been misled. The STOCK flares for all XJs are the same. The 2-door and 4-door are identical. When you get into Bushwhackers, they make a different one for the 4-door because a section of it has to mount on the rear door due to the larger size. The rear MJ flares are not the same as rear XJ flares. They are approximately 2" longer and 2" higher than the XJ flares. It may be possible to use 2-door XJ flares on an MJ, but I am not certain.

Did I miss something? I didn't see any mention of replacing the '88 CPS (that's the sensor in the bell housing) with a 91+ CPS. Or the flywheel. You have a problem. The '87 thru '90 flywheel and CPS operate on a completely different principal than the '91 and newer. The Chrysler ignition/injection system can't read and interpret the signal from the older CPS. And you can't just replace the CPS, because the 91+ uses a different tooth pattern on the flywheel (or flex plate) to trigger the CPS.

I used 94 or 95 YJ Wrangler front hoses. The hard line at the caliper end had to be rebent slightly but otherwise it's a bolt-on.

Wade - Congratulations on the promotion. Hopefully it'll mean a bit more $$$ to put into the Jeeps :)

For those of you fortunate enough to have an intact backer board, you can buy the headliner material in Pep Boys along with a can of adhesive for about 20 bucks. If the fabric chain JoAnne Fabrics is in your area, they also sell headliner material. JoAnne Fabrics has a better choice of colors and their material is heavier than Pep Boys.

Correct. I'm not certain, but I'm pretty sure that's the case in Connecticut. Otherwise it wouldn't be legal to run a CJ or Willys with the windshield folded down.

What does Renix have to do with it? You have a 20 year old engine, probably with the original rear mail seal, so it's all dried out and cracked, and then you disabled the crankcase ventilation system. None of that has anything to do with "Renix." The Renix system was ignition and injection. Rear main seal and crankcase pressure is fundamental power mechanics.

About zero. Sorry. It can happen even with a functional vent. I rebuilt a 4.0L XJ for my ex-GF a couple of years ago. Engine had 165,000 miles on it, but ran well after the previous owner's disasters had been straightened out. Once I had everything straightened out, I had to deliver it to her ... in Montana. I made it halfway across PA on I-80 before the rear main seal packed it in. Started spewing oil out. By the time I got to a Wal-Mart about an hour from the Ohio border the oil was down about 3 quarts and the chassis was never going to rust again. I bought a case of house-brand oil and kept going. It was the proverbial "Check the gas and fill up the oil" from there on. Once I got it to Montana, we had her mechanic replace the seal and it was good to go from then on. The good news is that on a 4.0L you can replace the seal without pulling the tranny.

The problem with straightening out the front hard lines to move the ends lower is that you are trying to re-bend 20-year old steel lines. You might be able to re-bend them. Or ... they might crack. When that happens, in addition to needing new hoses you also need to replace the hard lines. I realize I'm the resident Olde Pharte around here, but IMHO it's sometimes better to do it right the first time and try to avoid the headaches. I've learned from decades of trying the "cheap out" solutions that they very rarely work, and almost never save you the money you thouhgt you were going to save.

I'd say 2 inches. 4 inches if you will never EVER cross-your-heart-and-hope-to-die take it off road.

VOTES! What else are we talkin' about in this thread? Click that link and put up a few votes for JT's SO

You don't even have drums? Sorry, I thought you were just missing the internals. The backing plates are different, and the offset of the drums. I once tried to upgrade a D35 to the bigger brakes by just using a pair of D44 drums. They wouldn't go on -- the back lip of the drums locked up against the backing plates before the front part of the drums seated on the hub flange. So, if the backing plates are there, you need drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, and all the small parts. The springs and such will interchange, but the pins that hold the shoes to the backing plate are longer for the D44. If the backing plates are gone, you could move the entire D35 setup over (I think -- although I've never done it).

The Dana 44 has 10" x 2-1/2" brakes. The old (non c-clip) Dana 35s had 10" x 1-3/4" brakes. You can install the narrow shoes in the wide drums and they'll work. If you run it that way for awhile, though, you'll build up a ridge that will require cutting the drums before you can install the correct shoes. The D35 wheel cylinders can also be used in the D44, but they aren't the same inside diameter.

I fixed it. You had the closing tag at the start, and the opening tag at the close. Looks like he's put two additional leaves into the spring packs and kept ehe stock leaves. Which means the lift is accomplished by pivoting the axle 9and wheels) down and forward from the front spring eye. Your photos don't show the rear shackcle, but I'll guess it's probably pointed mostly forward as opposed to being basically vertical like it should be. Those are basically stock size tires. That truck doesn't need a lift. I'd bring it back down to stock height, or maybe a 1" or 2" lift at most. How was the front lifted?

Definitely worth the $300, and has potential. Dunno what to do about the rear springs. Can you post a better picture of one of the leaf packs? Looks like it's still spring-under, so he probably either did an AAL or Mickey Moused his own spring pack. The axle may end up centered again if you remove some of the lift -- if the main leaves are original MJ. Looks to me like seven leaves in there, w/o the stock overload leaf underneath. If you can figure out which are the originals, maybe remove one of the additions and that may bring things back closer to where they belong. Looks like the tie rod in the front steering is bent.

That's because you had gauges. You just changed to a cluster with a tach, right? The need to change senders is when replacing an idiot light cluster with full gauges.

I'd love to see that 6x6 truck show up at the Tough Truck Challenge. I think it would do pretty well.

You're not planning on sleeping, then, I take it? It's 11:35 and you still have 345 votes to go. I'm too old to pull an all-nighter ... especially for someone else's woman :)