Eagle

What did you use for a camera?

Is it one-way?

Winters in the Portland area aren't at all "brutal." The ocean moderates things quite a bit. I spent one winter checking the climate around Portland when I was considering a relocation there. It's not significantly different from Hartford, Connecticut. Which, admittedly, isn't Florida, but you're going to find winter is more wintery just about anywhere compared to where you are now.

Did you test the output of the new CPS?

Either should work in a non-ABS axle. The ABS shaft should have a tone ring, and I believe the ABS shafts had the larger U-joints.

What's the length? It seems like an enterprising young lad with access to a lathe could churn out a bunch of these things from a length of 3/4" hexagonal bar stock. Probably doesn't even need to be hardened, although that's not all that difficult.

IMHO, several of your criteria are mutually exclusive. You're going to need to prioritize. I'm considering Montana, New Hampshire, Tennessee, Wyoming, and [maybe] Idaho.

Power steering pump, reservoir, and brackets. Air cleaner box. Distributor. Throttle body.

What info at the bottom of what? If you created a signature ... you must not have saved it.

Pardon my confusion. "Driveline" typically refers to everything between the engine and the driving wheels.

You need to make up a signature with the year of your MJ, and the engine and transmission. That we we won't always ask: What year is your truck, and what engine and transmission does it have? Where are you located, and what axle do you have, Dana 35 or Dana 44? There are probably any number of members who have a Dana 35 axle or three they'd be perfectly happy to give you. I have several out in the yard. Is your differential opened up? Can you post a photo or three of the gouges you're talking about? Unless they're really bad, I'm inclined to think (sight unseen) that it's probably not a big deal. As long as tghere's enough solid material to hold the new races in place, the bearings only care about the races, not what's holding them.

That nugget of wisdom has been discussed (or at least mentioned) here many times. It's a shame you didn't catch it any of the times it has come up. Yeah, some creative body work with the 2-1/2-pound, hand-held Ford Carburetor Adjusting Tool should take care of it for you.

Not a good choice. The wheel bolt circle isn't the same -- you'll be looking at adapters. Also, I believe the full-size is actually narrower, wheel-mating-surface to wheel-mating-surface, than the MJ and XJ. Get a rear axle and leaf springs out of a '87 or newer XJ. Cut off the spring perches and mount them where they need to be for the MJ. Cut the eyes off the XJ main leaves and use them as AALs in your MJ spring pack.

Why do you need to change the rear axle when you change the engine?

Never heard of it. Doesn't make any sense.

Really? There should be about 70,000 volts at the spark plugs.

Currently three: '87 Pioneer SWB 4.0L '88 SporTruck SWB 2.5L '88 Chief SWB 4.0L I've lost count of how many others have passed through here on the way to adoptive homes

Fabreeze ... and time

Whereas polycarbonate is very resistant to impact, but it's also very susceptible to scratches.

Are you talking XJ Wagoneer, or full-size Wagoneer?

That's a non-pressurized coolant overflow recovery bottle. It's a totally different animal than the pressurized expansion tank in the Renix 4.0L system.

Expansion tank, or overflow catch bottle? I've never heard of a cheap, square expansion tank.

Replacing the IAC would not affect the brake lights. The OP reports that the brake lights work correctly when the headlights are off, but the brake lights are on when the headlights are on. That suggests to me that the taillight ground is bad, and the parking lights/taillights (which come on with the headlights) are seeking a ground through the brake lights. Check the ground for the taillights.

Read note #5 in the instructions.