Eagle

I suspect you speak the truth, but was this intentional or a Freudian slip? :thumbsup:

Yeah, buy a 1991 or newer. That way you get a C-clip Dana 35 rear axle, instead of one with retainers (and possibly a Dana 44). You get those wonderful Mopar 9-inch rear drums instead of the AMC 10-inch drums, and you also get the supercalifragilisticexpialidocious Mopar front discs that remind you when it's time for new rotors by the old ones falling off. You get OBD that's not compatible with anything else, and that you probably can't buy a scan tool to read for less than 3 grand. I LIKE my Renix era XJs and MJs. They're reliable, and easy to work on. Most problems can be diagnosed with an inexpensive multimeter.

Best time, IIRC, is morning. When I went out that-a-way several years ago, "friends" absolutely assured me that the Prezes faced west and that arriving at Rushmore mid- to late afternoon would be ideal. NOT! Screwed up my entire trip schedule, but I spent the night near Rushmore and went back in the morning so I could get pics with the faces in sun rather than in shadow. While you're there, drive "around the corner" and see how they're coming on the Crazy Horse sculpture.

Yeah, which means that a bunch of really nasty stuff was spilling out of his intestinal tract into the abdominal cavity, creating toxemia. He won't be getting out until they have him all cleaned out and made certain that there are no infections from all that "stuff." A week plus from the burst until he went in? To be honest, he is lucky he's even alive.

So do I. All my MJs are standards, and the only XJ (running, anyway) that isn't is my wife's. However, I do not especially enjoy being an integral part of destroying my drive train. I have wheeled both the '88 XJ and the red MJ, and both are 5-speeds. Which is how I KNOW that an automatic is the way to go if you're going to be crawing over rocks.

A burst appendix is NOT fun, but at least they got him there in time. He'll live, but he won't ever forget the experience.

Congratulations. Does the Canadian Army run Jeep Comanches? If not, why are you wasting your time trying to play with little boys' toys? :banana: :banana: :banana:

No. All the Jeep transfer cases used in the XJ, MJ, and ZJ are shift-on-the-fly between 2WD and 4WD-High, but NOT 4WD-Low.

For daily driver and light wheeling -- 5-speed. If you get into rock crawling, trying to crawl over rocks with a manual tranny beats the living crap out of the clutch, the drive shafts, the u-joints, the tranny, and the driver. AW4 all the way for a rock crawler.

Thanks for trying, but it actually doesn't answer any of my questions very well. 1. We KNOW that Fram filters cause low oil pressure on the Jeep engines. This has been documented right here. Virtually every time someone posts that they have low (or no) oil pressure, we ask if they are running a Fram filter and the answer is almost always yes. They change the filter and the problem goes away. This is fact, not theory. The question is: Why? 2. The new media referred to for Purolator was said to be in the Pure-One filters. I run the standard Purolators. That's why I specifically asked about the standard, NOT the Pur-One, filters. 3. The Renix 4.0L engines mount the filter upside down, which makes an anti-drainback valve mandatory. Whether or not they all have them, some seem to work (Purolator) and some seem to not work (if they have them), such as Fram. Perhaps I should have asked which filters have useful anti-drainback valves rather than just ask which have them.

What width 33s? On what rims? On stock rims you can run 31x10.50s with no lift. A 33 is only one inch higher than a 31 on the top, so in theory you could run 33x10.50s with a 1" lift. However, if you have 33x12.50s then the tires won't fit inside the flares and fenders, so you have to lift enough to keep the body clear of the tires. How will this truck be used? Street only, mild trail use, or hard core rock crawling? (In other words, how likely is it that the suspension will ever be fully articulated and crossed up?)

Yes: 1. Just how bad ARE Fram filters? 2. How good or bad are the standard (not the Pur-One) Purolator filters? 3. Which filters have effective anti-drainback valves, and which don't?

One of us has our loops confoozled. I have always thought that the initial, warm-up mode was "open-loop" mode because there IS no loop -- the sensors don't provide data to the ECU. Once warmed up, I thought the normal operating mode was "closed-loop" because the sensors are "in the loop," hence ==> closed loop. Yes? No? Maybe?

Once the carpet gets wet, you pretty much have to take it out to dry. Yes, it'll eventually dry in place -- but not before you generate a whole lot of mildew and mold spores, which you will then be breathing for as long as you own the vehicle.

NGK (the non-platinum ones) are my first choice by far. 2nd choice is Champion TRUCK plugs. 3rd choice is to go back and pick one of the first two choices.

Replace the viscous fan clutch, and get a shroud.

Compression readings? Uneven compression will cause rough idle and there's not a damned thing you can about it short of rebuilding the engine.

His signature says he has a '90 and his post says it's an '89. Either way, that's a Renix -- there are no codes to read. It isn't a "Check Engine" light, it's a "Maintenance Required" light that's telling you to replace the oxygen sensor. Why will it run for 10 minutes? Because the Renix system bypasses sensor input until it reaches operating temperature. During warm-up it runs in "open loop" mode, ignoring sensor inputs and using a pre-mapped fuel curve that's programmed into the ECU. Once the ECU temp sensor reads operating temperature (I think it's 165 degrees F.) it switches over to "closed loop" mode and starts adjusting things (such as fuel mix) according to sensor input.

This is not always correct. The factory sometimes used under/oversize bearings if they had to grind the crank a bit more to get a good surface. When they did that, they marked the side of the block with a code. That's what you need to check for. There is a boss on the side of the block just behind the distributor. If they used non-standard bearings, they stamped a one- or two-character code on the boss. Codes were; B = All cylinders .010" oversize (bore, for ordering rings) M = All crankshaft MAIN bearings .010" undersize P = All connecting rod bearings .010" undersize C = All camshaft bearings .010" oversize

Those numbers are in the toilet. The LOW number per the FSM is 120 psi and you are WAAAAAY under that. The next step is to figure out if it's because of rings or valves. Desludging the engine won't do anything for compression, so before you even waste time on that ... check things out and decide if the engine can be saved or if it needs a rebuild/replacement.

Bad oxygen sensor will make it run rich, and a consistent rich mix will clog the catalytic converter. A clogged cat doesn't allow enough exhaust flow to make power at higher RPMs. I'd say at a guess you need an O2 sensor and a catalytic converter.

Fan clutch.

DOES ... IT ... HAVE ... WIRES ... ? It is difficult to be of help by remote control when you don't provide any information. Your question was how to wire a replacement stalk. The answer is -- you cannot. The wires are built into the stalk. If the stalk you got is already set up for cruise and has the wires and the button, then your question is not how to wire the stalk, it's how to connect the stalk to the existing cruise control. If the stalk has wires, how many are there, what colors are they, and is it a round (bundled) cable or a flat ribbon cable?

Are you sure the Jeep Bible is talking about the same engine? "Our" 4-cylinder MJ engine has NEVER been referred to as an "AMC 150." It was called a 2.5 liter when it was introduced in the 1984 Cherokee, and it has always been known as that. Jeep has had other, older 4-cylinder engines, and one of those might have been 150 cubic inches. The Jeep Bible is a decent book, but Moses has never been much into XJs and MJs. That book was really written for and around the older CJs and such.

Sadly (for you) -- the AX-15 is a much stronger transmission than the Peugeot. The Peugeot is an okay transmission if you don't abuse it -- the one in my '88 Cherokee is now at 287,000 miles (+/-), but once they break ... don't spend any money repairing it.