Eagle

Yes, I know. Oh ... you wanted to know, too. Yes, you can use it. But you shouldn't. It's a 1" drop compared to the XJ/MJ pitman arm, and that causes bump steer problems.

I didn't see any mention of what tire size you're running ...

But what's the ratio? The ZJ box the original poster is looking for is better for street driving because it has a 12.7:1 ratio, whereas the XJ and MJ boxes have a 14:1 ratio (or 18:1 in the early ones with the off-road package). If you'll be doing serious off-roading with larger tires, especially in/on rock, you want more of a reduction ... higher number, but the trade-off is "slower" steering on pavement. If most of your driving is on the road, the faster ZJ box makes it much easier to stay in your lane on the highway.

This one? Image Not Found You are correct. That isn't an original XJ/MJ shifter. That's the knob for a TJ Wrangler and for the 1997 and newer XJs. However, although it isn't the correct knob, it is a much better knob. The originals have a steel sleeve inside a ceramic sleeve that's bonded to the rubber knob cover. It doesn't take too long before the ceramic cracks, the outer cover starts to flex, and then it loses the bond to the ceramic and the whole thing falls apart. I went through three or four on my '88 Cherokee before I switched over to the new style. Buy it once and you're done. Much, much better.

There are two on each side. Upper control arm, and lower control arm. Comanches don't have trailing arms. The front control arms are "leading" arms, not "trailing" arms.

I know its not the whole package but at least its affordable and i was just going to go for the coils and maybe get the rest and resell for more mulaaaa ?_? Time out. I'm a bit slow on the uptake, I realize. Alzheimer's coupled with olde pharte syndrome. But: Lemme get this straight: You're worried about not having enough money for a lift, so you think you'll SAVE money by buying a kit for the wrong vehicle, that does NOT include anywhere near all the parts that will be necessary to do the lift right on your truck. Excuse my bluntness, but somebody has to be Dutch uncle -- that just does not sound like much of a plan. And BTW - Don't count on reselling any Rusty's parts for more than you paid for them. Pretty much anybody who has owned a Jeep for more than 15 minutes knows that Rusty's junk is ... well ... junk.

NAPA

I thought it was illegal for them to charge your account before they actually ship the merchandise. It's also a Federal requirement that if they can't fill your order within 30 days, they have to notify you IN WRITING of the delay, give you a revised shipping date, and offer you an opportunity to cancel the order. A couple of years ago we ordered a jacket for my brother-in-law's Christmas present from Sportsmans Guide Company. They backordered it. We bought the same jacket locally to get it by Christmas (more money, but probably better quality) but, just for chuckles, I left the order standing to see what would happen. Every 30 days, for about ten MONTHS, I got an update, always revising the expected ship date to about 35 days farther out. Meanwhile, they offered the exact same jacket under different stock numbers (at higher prices) about six times. Ultimately, they canceled the order. The point being that they ostensibly played by the rules and notified me of the delays, each time offering me the chance to cancel. (Obviously, they hoped I would cancle but I called their bluff.) I think Nate should be reported to the FTC.

The PCV system ventilates the crankcase. The rear (small) line is the suction line. The larger line in the front allows (supposedly) filtered air to be drawn into the crankcase. The PCV valve (2.5L engine only, the 4.0L doesn't have one) is a one-way check valve. Crankcase air is pulled out through the small line by vacuum in the intake manifold. The hydrocarbons in the mix are then burned in the combustion process. If you have a hole in the small tube, you have a vacuum leak. That makes your mixture run lean, which can fool the computer into injecting more fuel than is needed.

Coil on the side of the block? That sounds to me like an old AMC 258 c.i.d. engine. The Renix coil/ignition module is on the inner fender, and I thought the HO mounted it in the same place.

Now if another 14,999,999 illegals would follow suit, perhaps this country could get back to being the United States of America.

That one will be live, I trust. (JUST KIDDING!)

I thought the question was about the ones on the exterior. Those have two fasteners. The louver slips down over plastic studs pressed into holes in the pillar. To remove, place a short block of wood against the bottom edge and tap GENTLY upward. They should pop right off. This is best done on a warm day when the plastic is softer.

The Renix (1990 and older) engines have two coolant temperature sensors. The one in the head is for the temp gauge on the dashboard, the one on the side of the block is for the ECU. Which one are you asking about? On the HO engines, the temp sender is in the thermostat housing.

:doh:

I know the 2.8L V6 as used in the early XJs and MJs was externally balanced. On the manual transmissions, that meant a "bob" weight on the flywheel. On the automatics, is the eccentric weight on the flex plate, or on the torque converter? I *NEED* to get my '88 2.5L 4-speed on the road. Clutch is blown. I could replace the clutch, but my wife doesn't drive standard (and the vehicles appreciate the consideration!), and it would be nice if there were a truck she could use when she buys used furniture for one of her projects. I have an ad in the Classifieds looking for an automatic for a 2.5L, but it occurred to me that I have the hulk of a 2.8L out back with a transmission attached. I'd have to replace the 228 transfer case with a 231 or 207, but that's not impossible. I know the tranny will bolt up to the block, and I assume (perhaps foolishly) that the torque converter may work, but will a 2.5L flex plate take care of the eccentric weight issues or will I have to have the torque converter neutral balanced?

There's your problem. (I see Hornbrod beat me to it.) Nope. Stock OEM Jeep rims are 5-1/4" backspacing, and 30x9.50s just barely rub on the lower control arms at full steering lock. I'm currently running 31x10.50s on stock alloy rims on my '88 XJ with no lift. Minor rubbing on the LCAs at full lock turning one way, no rubbing turning the other way. 4-1/2" of backspacing should take care of it for you.

Where are your tires rubbing? Do you have a lift? The usual place where 30s or 31s rub is on the lower control arms at full steering lock, and that has nothing to do with the flares.

DO NOT BUY A USED ONE! That bottle is part of the pressurized cooling system. If you find a used one, it'll be 20 years old and the plastic will have long since given up most of the plasticizers. Either spring for the top-shelf aluminum replacements, or buy a direct replacement from NAPA or Quadratech. Getting one from a junkyard is wasting money.

Try Henry's u-pull in Blackstone, MA. They used to have a row of MJs in the pick-n-pull section of the yard.

The "standard" rear drums for the XJ/MJ in the "early" years (through 1989) were 10" x 1-3/4". After 1990 Chrysler went to 9" x 2-1/2" ... wider, but the contact surface was located 10 percent closer to the center of rotation, so the larger brakes had a shorter lever arm. Dumb. In short, the D44 10" x 2-1/2" drums ARE a huge upgrade over either of the "standard" drum brakes on the XJ/MJ. Beyond that, both vehicles suffer from rear braking issues caused by their respective proportioning valves. In the MJ, the height-sensing valve doesn't let the rears do any work unless the bed is heavily loaded. That won't change if you switch to rear discs, and if you address it by removing or recalibrating the proportioning valve -- you won't need the discs. In the XJ, the proportioning valve gets gummed up and cuts off ALL braking to the rear wheels. Once again, changing to discs won't help, because they won't be doing any work, either. But they'll certainly look ultra-cool and high tech while they're doing squat to stop your vehicle. If you feel a need to upgrade your braking, be sure you understand what part of the system isn't performing before you start throwing parts (and money) at it.

I don't know what he's smoking, but disc brakes don't use backing plates. If it were me, I'd pay the cheaper price and skip the partial disc brake stuff he has, and use the money to put stock 10" x 2-1/2" drums on it, the way it was meant to be. I'm sure that's a minority opinion among you young whippersnappers who didn't grow up during a time when drum brakes were not only adequate, they also worked. The problem with drums in recent years is that the manufacturers started skimping, so they made 'em too small to stop the vehicles they were on. THe primary advantage to discs is cooling, for less brake fade. That's a factor only if you race, or if you drive a LOT in mountainous terrain. For normal purposes, the MJ D44 10" x 2-1/2" drums provide PLENTY of braking. And they don't require changing the booster and master cylinder, which would be necessary to get the discs to work properly.

Here ya go http://custom4x4fabrication.com/recovery.html#brackets

Two points: (1) The factory wiring for the fogs allows them to operate with the low beam headlights, or with the parking lights. I wouldn't want the fogs to operate with the headlight switch in the OFF position. Too much likelihood I'd forget to turn them off, and come back to a dead battery. (2) It is Federal law that fog lights CANNOT stay on when you switch to high beams. That's why the factory wired them that way. There is NO car, truck or SUV that has ever come from the factory with fog lights that would stay on with the high beams. It costs more to do it this way ... trust me, the manufacturers would not do it if it weren't a legal requirement.

You seem to be under the assumption that the factory wiring harness for fog lights was there even if the vehicle didn't come with fog lights. That was not the case in 1989. AMC did not install wiring for options that were not ordered. If you bought the fogs later, over the counter, the harness was sold as a stand-alone item. Back around 1990 the wiring harness alone sold for $55.