Eagle

In the "good ole days" we used to pour motor oil slowly down the carburetor until the neighborhood was well fumigated, then dump more oil in fast to stall the engine. That left the cylinders pretty well coated with oil.

I haven't looked at their catalog or web site for a long time, but JC Whitney used to sell some pre-rolled "hat" shaped u-channels for reinforcing or rebuilding frames and unibodies. Perhaps you can find something like that?

'94 wiring swap from what? A '94 Cherokee? How much did you swap that affects the taillights? Remember, the Cherokee had separate, amber lights for the turn signals, and separate red lights for the brakes and taillights. On the MJ, the same bulbs perform all three functions, using only two filaments. You can't directly plug in Cherokee wiring and expect the MJ tail/brake lights to function correctly. We need a better description of what you did.

Oh, oh. The truck is an '89, correct? That's a Renix. What year is the "new" engine? If it's a 1991 or newer, and you kept the "new" flywheel on the "new" engine -- there's your problem. The newer Chrysler injection/ignition system uses a different type of CPS than the older Renix system. The newer flywheel won't work in the old vehicle. Neither will a CPS for a '91 or newer Jeep.

What project? If it's free, you may be able to use some of the parts, although there were a number of things about the '84 XJs that were "tweaked" by the factory when the '85 models came out. Fix up and sell? You have to be kidding. In good, solid, running condition a 1984 2.5L Cherokee is a $250 vehicle. A carburetor will cost you twice that much. Wait ... he is SELLING a 1984 Cherokee with no carburetor? What kind of drugs is he on? That's a vehicle he should be paying to have hauled out of his yard.

Start by seeing if the tilt mechanism can be tightened. Only cost might be a steering wheel puller and a lock plate removal tool if you don't have them, although you can probably borrow them from an auto parts store. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/suspens ... ering.html http://en.allexperts.com/q/Steering-Col ... eering.htm http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html

It's all bolt-on. If you are replacing the down pipe (the front exhaust pipe, between the manifold and the catalytic converter), be sure to replace the donut.

Lenard, what are you running for an oil filter? Go to Pep Boys or Advance Auto (or Shucks, which I think is the same company in other parts of the world) and buy a Purolator or Mobil-1 filter. Stick it on, refill to the FULL mark with 10W30 oil, and recheck your oil pressure.

Call the emissions station you use and ask what rules will apply. In some states, your vehicle is tested according to the year on the VIN even if you swap in a newer engine. In other states, if you swap in a newer motor you have to meet the emissions for that year. Plus you're going from a 4-cylinder to a 6-cylinder. My guess would be that a 1994 4.0L will pass the emissions for an '89 4-banger with no problems, so maybe you don't have to say anything. I don't think they open the hood -- I believe they just verify the VIN, stick the sniffer in the tailpipe, and run it up on the dyno. Oh, and the gas cap pressure test.

Sequence is important, as mvusse posted ... but did not emphasize. To adjust, first you should loosen the parking brake adjustment at the splitter. Then adjust the brakes so the shoes are just barely making contact with the drums. You should her a very light sound as the drum turns, but there should be no drag. If the drums are at all out of round, you'll hear a light sound at one or two points as you spin the drum. Once the drums are adjusted, THEN you adjust the parking brake splitter. For the XJ, IIRC, the correct adjustment is when the brakes hold in the forward direction with the handle in the third (5th?) click. For an MJ, I guess that would translate to the third (5th?) click on the foot peddle. However, it is correct that the design of the drum brakes makes them significantly more effective in the forward direction.

I STRONGLY recommend that you not trim any higher than the pinch weld where the inner liner meets the outer sheet metal. The kid from whom I got my '88 trimmed beyond that, and I have found that no matter what I do to try to stiffen it and seal it, there's no way to keep road crap from getting in between the inner and outer panels and accelerating the rust. You should be okay if you trim as far as the bolt holes for the flare plates, but I would not try to remove the entire bolt hole flange.

Xp is fine on that box, for the uses you have in mind. I'm running Xp Pro on a Dell desktop with a 1 GHz CPU and 512MB (the max the motherboard will recognize) and I have no problems. But I'm not into games. My wife's desktop was a similar Dell Dimension with a 600 MHz CPU and 768 MB of RAM. Again, no problems ... until a virus she downloaded took out the boot information. I got her a notebook to replace it, but I'll reformat the desktop's hard drive and use it as a spare machine, perhaps in the basement workshop. You got a steal of a deal.

Ever see an HO electric speedo in which the odometer numbers were visibly out of horizontal alignment?

Does anyone have a photo of the speedometer of a '91 or '92 Comanche or Cherokee? Ideally from a base model, with idiot lights, but any '91 or '92 is better than nothing. Looking at some photos of a truck for sale near me that someone's interested in buying and I have some questions. One of the questions: The speedo shows exceptionally low mileage for a beat-looking '92. The numbers on the odometer do not line up straight across (horizontally). In the old days of mechanical odometers, that was generally an indication that the speedometer had been turned back. Does anyone know if it's possible to turn back the odometer out of one of the electric-speedo clusters?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle http://www.tpub.com/content/constructio ... 73_334.htm

That only tells you how much lift you have. More important is the caster angle and the pinion angle. Then you need the driveshaft angle to figure out the operating angle at the pinion u-joint. An excellent article to get you started is from our friend GoJeep, in Australia: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm

It sounds more like your transmission jumped one of the shift rods and is stuck in two gears at once. It happens -- I have two or three trannies out in the yard with that problem, that I haven't gotten around to opening up yet.

Ka-Ching! :agree:

Looks sort of like one of those long wheelbase Egyptian army trucks. If so ... is the photo from the U.S.? I don't know if those can even be imported (legally).

BMW owners won't wave at you unless you own a Harley? :???: :dunno: :hmm: :fool:

What year truck? Do you have a mechanical speedo with a cable, or an electrical speedo?

Buddy, I don't know what you're doing wrong (or not doing right), but your photos are not showing up. And they don't work as clickable links, either.

ALL ZJ "Dana 44s" have the aluminum housing. Aside from the housing being weaker than a D35, the internals are NOT standard D44. The pre-99 versions are 5 on 4-1/2, but otherwise just as terrible as the newer ones. VERY bad choice. Run away, as fast as you can.

That's sort of like a guy with an airsoft calling out a dude who wears a Colt .45 on his hip and carries an M16, locked and loaded. In other word: "Dumb!"

I guess that might be true but, if so, it doesn't make any sense (to me) at all. There is nothing about higher RPM that would in any way make the signal stronger. The CPS is basically a Hall effect sensor. It's a magnet -- when a tooth (high point) on the flywheel zips by it, the magnetic pulse generates a VERY small electric current. I haven't studied any Physics or electrical theory for over 40 years, but it seems to me that faster would equate to less time in proximity, which would equate to a weaker signal, not stronger. But, hey ... that's why we have Hornbrod around here. To explain to me why I don't know jack about 'lectricity. What the heck -- it's a '91, so it's OBD-compliant. Hook it up to a scanner or DRB and see what shows up as out-of-spec.