Eagle

All XJs '96 and newer with 1" of lift or more need either a transfer case drop or a SYE to control vibrations. But that's for the XJ with the new style output shaft. MJs typically don't need a transfer case drop.

I have to disagree. On stock rims, 31x10.50s will rub on the lower control arms when the steering is turned to full lock, but it is not "badly." And, since the rubbing is on the lower control arms, lifting doesn't do anything to alleviate it anyway. Yes, they'll fit. I'm currently running 31x10.50s in my '88 XJ daily driver at stock height, and the XJ has smaller rear wheel wells than the MJ. I lose a bit of turning radius, and after a week to get accustomed to where I should stop turning the wheel, it's a non-issue.

What year and what vehicle are we talking about? If you currently have a 228 transfer case, you must have either an '86 MJ or an '84 - '86 XJ. I thought ALL the AMC transfer cases in those years were 21-spline inputs. Are you sure the 228 is a 23-spline?

It depends on the year. The older ones lock the two driveshafts together even though the t'case is divorced from the tranny. I think they changed it around 1994 but I'm not certain on the year.

A long time ago, in the early days of NAXJA, several people ran into problems trying to mix parts from various years of transfer case because the gear pitch was different from one year to another. That was, IIRC, dealing with NP231 cases, but it is possible the same situation might affect 242s. If you have the parts it might be wirth a try, but if you're shopping for a used box or parts, I would try to do some more research before plunking down any big chunks of cash. The 228 was called "Select-Trac" because it offered a full-time 4WD position, but it's a totally different case than a 242 and I don't think a single part from one would fit the other.

No ... not for this question. You are overlooking the fact that in one instance he's using 4th gear, in the other he's using 5th gear. If the speed is the same and the RPMs are the same, irrespective of how it got there the overall final drive ratio is identical and the rear wheel torque is identical.

You can't do 3" with a SOA. That'll lift the rear at least 5-1/2", typically.

It isn't unusual to mess up a rear main seal the first time and have to do it over. Other candidates are the valve cover, and the O-ring where the oil filter adapter mounts to the block.

I know there's a way with a Renix-era XJ harness, because the XJ Wagoneers didn't use amber turns. I don't know how different the taillight wiring is for a '94 compared to, say, an '89. I'd suggest you get your hands on the wiring diagrams for an early XJ Wagoneer, your year MJ, and a '94 XJ and start comparing the brake and turn circuits, starting from the front and working back.

When I was growing up, my home town had a population of around 5,000 or 6,000 people. The police department had a chief, two full-time patrol officers, and one supernumery. There were two dispatchers -- the wives of the full-time patrol officers, who each had the department phone line linked to their home and a radio in the kitchen. Not a huge department, but it was perfectly adequate. Those officers (and the chief) were GOOD cops. They went about the business of being police officers and didn't harass honest people for Mickey Mouse stuff. On the other hand, they didn't tolerate nonsense. I remember one of the officers investigating a report of a hunter, out of season, prowling on private land where the owner didn't allow hunting. He parked the patrol unit in our driveway, walked into the property from our yard, climbed a tree in full uniform to spot they guy, and then approached him. The guy tried to be a smarty-pants. Instead of just saying "I'm sorry, I'll leave," he gave the officer a line of "stuff." As a result, the intrepid nimrod walked out of the woods in handcuffs and got a free ride to the lockup.

In the "good ole days" we used to pour motor oil slowly down the carburetor until the neighborhood was well fumigated, then dump more oil in fast to stall the engine. That left the cylinders pretty well coated with oil.

I haven't looked at their catalog or web site for a long time, but JC Whitney used to sell some pre-rolled "hat" shaped u-channels for reinforcing or rebuilding frames and unibodies. Perhaps you can find something like that?

'94 wiring swap from what? A '94 Cherokee? How much did you swap that affects the taillights? Remember, the Cherokee had separate, amber lights for the turn signals, and separate red lights for the brakes and taillights. On the MJ, the same bulbs perform all three functions, using only two filaments. You can't directly plug in Cherokee wiring and expect the MJ tail/brake lights to function correctly. We need a better description of what you did.

Oh, oh. The truck is an '89, correct? That's a Renix. What year is the "new" engine? If it's a 1991 or newer, and you kept the "new" flywheel on the "new" engine -- there's your problem. The newer Chrysler injection/ignition system uses a different type of CPS than the older Renix system. The newer flywheel won't work in the old vehicle. Neither will a CPS for a '91 or newer Jeep.

What project? If it's free, you may be able to use some of the parts, although there were a number of things about the '84 XJs that were "tweaked" by the factory when the '85 models came out. Fix up and sell? You have to be kidding. In good, solid, running condition a 1984 2.5L Cherokee is a $250 vehicle. A carburetor will cost you twice that much. Wait ... he is SELLING a 1984 Cherokee with no carburetor? What kind of drugs is he on? That's a vehicle he should be paying to have hauled out of his yard.

Start by seeing if the tilt mechanism can be tightened. Only cost might be a steering wheel puller and a lock plate removal tool if you don't have them, although you can probably borrow them from an auto parts store. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/suspens ... ering.html http://en.allexperts.com/q/Steering-Col ... eering.htm http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html

It's all bolt-on. If you are replacing the down pipe (the front exhaust pipe, between the manifold and the catalytic converter), be sure to replace the donut.

Lenard, what are you running for an oil filter? Go to Pep Boys or Advance Auto (or Shucks, which I think is the same company in other parts of the world) and buy a Purolator or Mobil-1 filter. Stick it on, refill to the FULL mark with 10W30 oil, and recheck your oil pressure.

Call the emissions station you use and ask what rules will apply. In some states, your vehicle is tested according to the year on the VIN even if you swap in a newer engine. In other states, if you swap in a newer motor you have to meet the emissions for that year. Plus you're going from a 4-cylinder to a 6-cylinder. My guess would be that a 1994 4.0L will pass the emissions for an '89 4-banger with no problems, so maybe you don't have to say anything. I don't think they open the hood -- I believe they just verify the VIN, stick the sniffer in the tailpipe, and run it up on the dyno. Oh, and the gas cap pressure test.

Sequence is important, as mvusse posted ... but did not emphasize. To adjust, first you should loosen the parking brake adjustment at the splitter. Then adjust the brakes so the shoes are just barely making contact with the drums. You should her a very light sound as the drum turns, but there should be no drag. If the drums are at all out of round, you'll hear a light sound at one or two points as you spin the drum. Once the drums are adjusted, THEN you adjust the parking brake splitter. For the XJ, IIRC, the correct adjustment is when the brakes hold in the forward direction with the handle in the third (5th?) click. For an MJ, I guess that would translate to the third (5th?) click on the foot peddle. However, it is correct that the design of the drum brakes makes them significantly more effective in the forward direction.

I STRONGLY recommend that you not trim any higher than the pinch weld where the inner liner meets the outer sheet metal. The kid from whom I got my '88 trimmed beyond that, and I have found that no matter what I do to try to stiffen it and seal it, there's no way to keep road crap from getting in between the inner and outer panels and accelerating the rust. You should be okay if you trim as far as the bolt holes for the flare plates, but I would not try to remove the entire bolt hole flange.

Xp is fine on that box, for the uses you have in mind. I'm running Xp Pro on a Dell desktop with a 1 GHz CPU and 512MB (the max the motherboard will recognize) and I have no problems. But I'm not into games. My wife's desktop was a similar Dell Dimension with a 600 MHz CPU and 768 MB of RAM. Again, no problems ... until a virus she downloaded took out the boot information. I got her a notebook to replace it, but I'll reformat the desktop's hard drive and use it as a spare machine, perhaps in the basement workshop. You got a steal of a deal.

Ever see an HO electric speedo in which the odometer numbers were visibly out of horizontal alignment?

Does anyone have a photo of the speedometer of a '91 or '92 Comanche or Cherokee? Ideally from a base model, with idiot lights, but any '91 or '92 is better than nothing. Looking at some photos of a truck for sale near me that someone's interested in buying and I have some questions. One of the questions: The speedo shows exceptionally low mileage for a beat-looking '92. The numbers on the odometer do not line up straight across (horizontally). In the old days of mechanical odometers, that was generally an indication that the speedometer had been turned back. Does anyone know if it's possible to turn back the odometer out of one of the electric-speedo clusters?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle http://www.tpub.com/content/constructio ... 73_334.htm