Eagle

Dave, I have NEVER heard Chrysler recommend ATF4 for the AW4 tranny. That's what they use in all the Chrysler transmissions, but not the AW4. The two types are not at all interchangeable.

Dexron/Mercon

I hope the Neon had insurance. You are having your truck repaired with all new parts, right? A new Comanche leaf spring probably sells for about $400.

To change the hubs you must: * Remove the caliper * Remove the rotor * Remove the nut holding the axle and hub together * Remove the three bolts holding the hub unit in the knuckle * Beat the old hub unit out of the knuckle. This can take 5 minutes, but more offten it's closer to 5 hours (per side) To pack the old-style bearings you must: * Remove the caliper * Remove the cotter key locking the axle nut * Remove the axle nut * The outer bearing now falls out into your hand * Remove the hub/rotor, pop the seal on the back, and the inner bearing falls out * Pack some grease into the bearings * Install rear bearing in hub, tap a new seal in place * Reassemble 15 to 20 minutes per side would be working slowly.

No. The bleeder for the clutch extends out of the bellhousing. You'll see it -- it looks like a bleeder screw on a brake caliper or wheel cylinder. There is nothing in the transmission to bleed.

Having fought a few XJ/MJ unit bearing assemblies and having repacked conventional front wheel bearings countless times from my gearhead racing/autocross days -- there's no way on God's green earth you can replace a hub bearing unit faster than you can pop the bearings and repack. Not even close.

yea well its just until we get adjustable ones and it will only be on the road not beaten on so they might last long enough And if they don't? Sorry to be a dork, but it's one thing if the only possible thing that can happen is you kill yourself. That's your decision. But driving a hacked-together vehicle that has steering/suspension parts that could fail at any time could easily result in your taking out another vehicle ... or several vehicles. How many people are you prepared to possibly kill because you can't afford a set of control arms? The advice given above is good advice: If you can't afford to lift it right ... don't lift it. The MJ is a very capable off-road vehicle in stock configuration. There is simply no excuse for engaging in "redneck engineering" because you "can't afford" to do it right.

Do not put gear oil in the crankcase. Definitely sounds like the rear main seal. I had one blow out in an XJ on I-80 about halfway across PA on my way to Montana. I stopped at a Wal-Mart, bought a case of their house brand oil in the heaviest weight I could find, and just added a quart about ever 150 or 200 miles. The entire undercarriage was coated and it was sucking back up and putting an oily haze on the rear bumper, hatch, and hatch glass. Still ran fine. Once it's blown it's blown, but you can reduce the amount of oil that gets pushed out somewhat by keeping your speed down.

IIRC, there are three bolts higher up on the pump bracket accessed from the front (radiator side) of the assembly, and three more lower down that are accessed from beneath and behind (firewall side). The actual adjuster point toward the air box. As far as I'm concerned, the ONLY way to adjust it is to remove the air box for access. It is possible to do it with the air box in place, but it takes twice as long and you'll get four times as dirty.

Long arms? The best: http://claytonoffroad.com/index.php?cPath=18_66

This site may help. The listing has links to drawings if each transmission type. http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog ... ation.html

No, it's better to leave it in "Power" mode. On the belt squeal, check the harmonic damper on the front of the crankshaft. If the outer weight ring starts to "walk" it affects belt alignment and can result in squealing. And if not addressed, it can chew up the front timing chain cover, making a routine replacement into a considerably more expensive repair job.

Yes.

Yeah, with no tach it'll work. You will need to replace the oil pressure sender and the coolant temperature sender (the one on the left rear corner of the head, NOT the one on the side of the block) with the corresponding parts for gauges.

The 84 thru 86 (or maybe thru the first half of the 87 model run) do NOT have an adjustable potentiometer. From 87 thru 90 the tach has a potentiometer and the speedo uses a different cable than the 84 thru 86 models. 91+ should have the potentiometer but also uses an electronic speedometer so the 91+ cluster can't be used in a pre-91 vehicle.

I don't think I'd spend a grand on an axle for an MJ I was going to run at stock height on more-or-less stock size tires. I also wouldn't go the 8,8 route, because I would want to run OEM Jeep wheels and I don't feel like spending a couple hundred more bux for structural-grade wheel spacers. Have you considered just buying an XJ Chrysler 8-1/4" axle and moving the perches? For a grand, I'd think you could almost have Dynatrac or some shop like that build you a new D44.

:agree:

The old axle will be the non c-clip style. The "new" axle will be a c-clip axle. So the shafts will not interchange. And I don't think the brakes will interchange. I am not certain, but I think the bolt pattern attaching the backing plates to the axles is different.

10-4 on pulling the door cylinders, but on an early XJ or MJ (using the AMC/GM keys rather than the single Mopar key), do NOT try to key the doors and the ignition the same. It won't work, and you'll ruin something in the process. I thought for a long time that this could be done. After all, the ignition key will go into the door lockes (although the door key won't go into the ignition, at least on mine). Why not just make them all the same? Well, when shopping for a new lockset for the door between the garage and the kitchen I chatted up a friendly professional locksmith (not a Home Depot key maker drone), who explained it to me. The old style ignition keys are "six-bit" keys -- the locks have six tumblers, so the keys have six points that engage the pins in the lock cylinder. The door keys are five-bit keys -- they only have five pins. The keys are the same length, so the spacing of the pins is different. The guy told me there's a remote possibility he might be able to make it work, but the pins would be out of position in one lock or the other and he felt certain that something would wear out very quickly and then the key wouldn't function in either the doors OR the ignition. So I still carry two keys.

There's no reason NOT to do the 8.8 conversion as a spring under. It's better than a Dana 35. But keep in mind that you will still have to deal with the axle width issue. The 8.8 axles are narrower, wheel mating surface to wheel mating surface, than stock MJ/XJ axles. In an MJ, the stock setup has the wheels close enough to the inner fender walls in the rear at when running 31x10.50 tires, the inner sidewalls are very close to the edges of the springs and any articulation results in the shoulder of the tire rubbing against the metal. When you do an 8.8 conversion you will either need to use spacers, or run aftermarket rims with less backspacing than Jeep rims. If you choose non-Jeep rims, you will then need to be aware that rims with less vackspacing may create other clearance issues in the front.

That's great news. The Jeep gods are smiling.

I don't understand any of what you wrote. The basic question is, are the brakes on both axles 10 inches in diameter, or is the replacement axle a newer, Chrysler-vintage axle with the smaller 9-inch brakes?

Well ... yes, you could. The lesson here is that no two people use, drive, or set up their trucks exactly the same way. You have to do as you think appropriate, but when I respond to a question I try to answer the question without superimposing on it MY criteria for how I use, drive, and set up my vehicles. There is no reason for you to throw a hissy fit because someone doesn't want to do a lift on his truck. We're all here because we like Comanches, and that should include all flavors of Comanche.

Geonovast is correct. Wrangler coils are softer than XJ/MJ coils and actually lower an XJ or MJ compared to a stock 4.0L vehicle. The TJ coils may be about the same as XJ/MJ 4-cylinder coils. ZJ V8 front coils (Grand Cherokee, 93 - 98) are the same part number as XJ Up Country coils and ride approximately 1" higher than stock XJ/MJ 4.0L coils.

The factory relay IS a universal type. It's the same relay as any of the relays in the relay bank on the right side inner fender (if you have a Renix model).