Eagle

Awhile ago on NAXJA there was a post showing how to repair the gimbel inside that gets wobbly over time. The author suggested using a hair dryer to soften the adhesive, then carefully prying the glass off. I have several floppy mirrors that are in need of this repair, but I have not yet summoned sufficient courage to attack the glass with a hair dryer. Please let us know what you find out -- whether it works, or doesn't work.

Whatever he hit (or whatever hit him) hit HARD. The roof is buckled, which means the entire unibody is bent.

Man, you guys are tight. The last time I priced XJ Dana 44 axles the going price was $500 to $600. There aren't more of them now than there were then, so how'd the price get cut in half over the course of a couple of years? I did find one about four years ago for $75 -- it was 150 miles away, cost me a full day and a tank of gas to go get it.

Just to be sure I'm reading correctly -- it was NOT engaging in any of this before you tried to splice in power for the fog lights, correct?

$500? That's a STEAL. Frankly, if I were the owner and I had said I'd take $500 for the complete vehicle, if you came back and tried to get me down I would throw you off my property. Why do so many Jeep people go out of their way to be insulting? Get real. The axles alone are worth $500. The tranny and transfer case alone are worth $500. Look up some prices for parts on a new body style Cherokee on www.car-parts.com.

Yeah ... Taylor. They won't insure a vehicle you drive regularly, and they won't insure a 4-wheel drive. That was as of three years (or so) ago. If they have changed their policies (no pun intended), please let me know. http://www.jctaylor.com/

Good luck in college. Remember, studies come before the MJ (as much as it pains me to write that), but check in here when you can.

Well, now. That's really ... different.

I know exactly what the operation entails, and in my personal, not-so-humble opinion it's a very BAD idea. Of course, I am old enough to have experienced brakes failing due to a busted circuit when crossing mountains. My guess is that you haven't had the pleasure, or you might not be so cavalier about how important an intact brake system is. I'm also old enough to have seen numerous examples of just how fragile older steel brake lines can be. I stand by my advice that it's much better,safer to leave the steel lines anone and do it right by replacing the rubber flex hoses with longer ones. NEW longer ones.

If it's a Renix (1986 thru 1990) the ECU is under the dashboard, right over the driver's right foot. There's a bunch of wires in/on the steering column. If they hot-wired it when they stole it (which is what usually happens), that's almost certainly the problem. Keep in mind that the key does NOT operate the ignition switch. The actual switch is down at the base of the steering column. The key operates a linkage rod, which in turn operates the actual switch. If either the key mechanism (not the lock cylinder itself, but the bits that the cylinder turns) or the operating rod got mangled, the rod may not be turning the switch on when you turn the key.

I'd say that target rates at least TWO thumbs up. Very well done!

I wasn't aware you could handle the vehicle independently from the medical, but it sounds like your attorney is on top of the situation so follow his advice. Best wishes for a speedy ... and complete ... recovery to both you and your wife.

Is there a bounty on coyotes in Arizona?

Long term solution -- wait for Pete. Short term solution -- write in Notepad or Wordpad, then copy and paste into the forum edit window.

Maybe, but IMHO this is a VERY bad idea. The existing hard lines are over 20 years old. Bending them to "relocate" them may bend them ... or they may crack at the bends. Even if they don't break, you're moving the fitting for the flex hose farther down into the area where it is susceptible to damage. Besides, the flex hoses are also 20+ years old and probably cracked ... and they may be rotted inside. They should be replaced anyway, so why not just do the job the right way and buy new, longer hoses?

By all means. Put it in the "DIY project writeups" area, please.

Yeah, do NOT let them put "Salvage" on your title. Get the lawyer to insist on that. You have to understand what "Totalled" means. It does NOT mean that the vehicle is a "totally destroyed" pile of scrap metal. On a 20+ year old vehicle, a busted taillight can "total" it. All the term means is that the cost to repair it exceeds the book value of the vehicle. The damage you see may make your truck a "total," yet the same damage on a 2008 Ford Ranger might cost twice as much to repair and it wouldn't be a "total." So they're not buying the vehicle from you and selling it back to you with a diddled totle. They are paying you $2 grand to have your truck repaired. End of discussion. If they won't agree to that ... go see a neurosurgeon about the pains you've been having in your neck since the accident. When my old full-size Cherokee was rear-ended by a teenie bopper, her insurance company initially agreed to repair it, but when the body shop found that the only rear quarter panel available was for a Grand Wagoneer with a recessed gas cap, the insurance company balked at buying the parts to put the gas filler collar on. I just pointed out to the adjuster that I had not asked to have my plow vehicle taken out of action during snow season by THEIR client, I wasn't asking them for lost income, I wasn't claiming any bogus whiplash injuries, all I wanted was my damn Jeep fixed. They paid for it. P.S. No, a Cherokee rear bumper won't fit. Front, yes. Rear, no way.

If it's the ballast resistor, it'll have spark but no gas, and it should start while the fuel pump is bypassed and then die when the key is returned to the "run" position. The original post said "No spark." (Dunno if he meant that, but that's what he wrote.)

If it was running and died, the distributor isn't 180 degrees out unless he messed with it after it died. The odds-on most likely cause is the CPS.

BTW - Check and double check your rear height-sensing proportioning valve. Mine exploded in a panic stop situation. I was more fortunate than you -- I didn't hit the idiot, and there was nobody behind me. But my heart rate went up a lot, and the rear proportioning valve blew out. That's why I recommend taking them out ... I can't trust them after that. But you do have to understand what they do and that there will be a change in how the rear reacts under braking if you eliminate it. If yours blew out, though, you have no choice. The part is no longer available new and IMHO it would be foolish to replace a blown one with a used part of the same age (or older).

Keep us posted. And don't forget -- although normally you are (or should be) entitled to have your vehicle repaired using new parts, if new MJ parts aren't available ... this is the best resource for finding used parts. You're tapped into a network that'll help you scout 'em out when you need 'em. Good luck. Just don't sign anything without an attorney's review and okay.

You might get by with stock brake lines and a 4" lift if you only drive on the street, but keep in mind that off-road the axles drop and droop and move around a lot. My '88 had a 4" lift on when I bought it, with some of those brake hose relocating clip thingies. The front left hose and the rear hose were badly stretched and in danger of failing. I replaced the front hoses with Wrangler hoses (longer) mounted back in the original locations for better protection, and I replaced the rear with a YJ Wrangler hose (also longer than stock MJ). I think others have said that a Dakota rear hose is also a suitable replacement. Don't take any chances. Brakes are important ... do it right, or don't do it.

Play hardball. This accident was not your fault. I'm not an attorney or an insurance adjuster, but I believe the rules are very different when an accident is the other party's fault. You aren't driving a 20-year old Comanche because you have to, you are driving it because you WANT to. Their client wrecked your truck. You expect it to be repaired to the condition it was in prior to the accident, regardless of cost. The legal terminology is "making the injured party whole." You can't run out and buy another Comanche like yours, so throwing a few dollars at you does not make you whole. You are entitled to have your vehicle repaired. With new parts. It's a General Motors steering column, so I'll bet they are still available through GM if not through Jeep. Talk to an attorney. Especially since you and your wife were injured. I was hurt in an accident once (as a passenger) when I was in high school. The accident was in July and some of the problems didn't show up until I was back in school and tried out for the basketball team. Be sure your rights are reserved and protected.

"I love it when a plan comes together." Colonel Hannibal Smith, The A-Team

Don't do it! Just take the grille, don't take the header and quad headlights. Those headlights are worse than useless. And the take a very non-standard bulb so there is essentially no upgrade path. You'll be sorry.