Eagle

I still hope to simulate metric ton springs on a 2WD MJ or two by using cut-off XJ main leaves as AALs. The concept is that they start off with less arch, so they should settle in at normal ride height without adding much lift, but will help take up load as the suspension begins to compress. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear that I'll get to that experiment this year.

That's not entirely accurate. Here is the run down: 980 lb. capacity = 7.62" free arch, OEM part #89-52-002-312, 3+1 configuration 1100 lb. capacity = 8.75" free arch, OEM part #89-52-001-240, 3+1 configuration 1160 lb. capacity = 9.25" free arch, OEM part #89-52-002-351, 3+1 configuration 1220 lb. capacity = 9.75" free arch, OEM part #89-52-001-824, 3=1 configuration 1280 lb. capacity = 10.25" free arch, OEM part #89-52-002-350, 3+1 configuration 1440 lb. capacity = 9.12" free arch, OEM part #89-52-001-825, 4+1 configuration 1700 lb. capacity = 9.50" free arch, OEM part #89-52-003-676, 3+2 configuration The first 5 springs are identical except for the free arch. The 1440 lb. spring has the 1st two leaves made from .291 thick steel, the next two leaves made from .262 steel, and the thick two-stage leaf from .625 steel. The MT spring has the 1st leaf made from .291 steel, the next two made from .323 steel, the long two-stage leaf made from .590 steel, and the bottom two-stage leaf from .625 steel. The same main leaf fits all seven springs. In the spring industry, the term "Free Arch" stands for the arch of the spring measured perpendicularly from the top of the main leaf at the center bolt location to a line drawn through the centers of the eyes, while the spring is in its free state (unloaded and off the vehicle). It's an industry term. :smart: -Tom That's still only part of the story. It doesn't take into account that the thickness of the leaves varies from one spring/capacity to the next. The bottom line is that the factory service manual lists a ride height for the rear sispension, measured from the top of the axle tube to the frame rail next to the bump stop. They list ONE height (plus-or-minus 1/2") for the 4WD chassis, and ONE height (plus-or-minus 1/2") for the 2WD chassis. The 2WD height is 1" less than the 4WD height. BTW -- I don't believe I even mentioned free arch. I'm not interested in free arch and I don't pay attention to it. I want to know what height my truck is going to ride at, and how much weight I can put in before I sit on the bump stops. Free arch is important (I guess) to spring shops, but not to me.

I don't know how to test the speedometer out of the vehicle, but you can test the gauges. Use a battery charger as a 12-volt source. Connect the leads to a pair of jumper wires that have smaller, insulated handles and "probe" tips. The contacts for the gauges are accessible on the back of the cluster. For each gauge, if you apply one probe to each terminal, the gauge will be pegged to one side or the other. This is a ROUGH check to see if the gauge is burned out, so polarity doesn't matter. Then switch the probes to the opposite terminals. The needle should now peg to the opposite side of the dial. (Except the voltmeter, of course, which will read 12-volts when connected correctly and should not be tested with the polarity reversed.)

The title of your post indicates it's hard to start. The text of your post, however, says it takes a "long time" to start, but doesn't mention it being hard to start. What's your definition of hard to start, or takes a long time? Your 1990 is a Renix model -- the injection/ignition system was designed by Renault and Bendix ==> Renix. This system does not "learn" as you drive. Every start is a "cold" start as far as the ECU is concerned, and every start requires several revolutions of the flywheel for the ECU to register sensor input and get things synchronized. This is normal. You will NEVER get the "one touch of the key" starts that are sometimes seen in other vehicles. So if all you're reporting is that it cranks over a couple of times before it fires -- that's not a problem. For the high idle, try cleaning the idle air controller and throttle position sensor.

That's a direct violation of the plumbing code, probably several local ordinances or state laws, and probably something that could be considered fraud if your state has any sort of laws regarding a seller's "duty to disclose known defects." Repair of a broken copper pipe inside a wall with garden hose and clamps would never stand up in court as a reasonable repair that would be considered to eliminate the defect. By the way ... if it froze on him, be sure it won't freeze on you.

I think one party or the other (87mance or Motion Offroad) needs to post an actual scan or photo of the packing slips showing what was supposed to be in each package, and the weight.

Half price what? Half the price of doing a 4WD vehicle that would require changing two axles instead on one.

So far we have tracking numbers and some weights. It might be helpful if one side or the other would post copies of the actual packing slips, with weights, as confirmation that everything ordered is included in these weights. Obviously, the rest of us don't need to see prices paid, and that information can be redacted. 87mance, 83 pounds is approximately 37.7 kilograms. Did the packages you received add up to somewhere in the range of 36 to 37-1/2 kilograms? Without some better/more complete information, what I'm seeing here is a clear case of "he said .... she said." That isn't going to resolve anything.

According to my friend, Captain Obvious, it's a lot easier (and cheaper!) to call him from Pennsylvania than it is from Norway. If there's a problem, I think Motion Offroad should be acknowledging it and taking steps to rectify it rather than posting information that implies everything was shipped to the freight forwarder when it apparently was not. After this length of time, frankly, it should have been taken care of. It should not have been necessary to post here in order to stir up some kind of action toward (hopefully) a resolution.

Sure they do. Lowe's or Home Depot. In the back of the fastener aisle in the Hardware department they have a rack of steel and aluminum tubing, angles, rods, and stuff. They should have a few pieces of brass rod. Buy a 2-foot length of 1/8" rod, cut it into a 4" length and a 6-inch leg, clean the burrs off where you cut it, and get to work. If they have 3/32" rod, get a hunk of that, too.

3.55s are NOT a "big" step up from 3.07s. Better, yes, but hardly better enough to be worth the effort in making the change. You'll need to go at least to 3.73s to make any significant improvements in performance. If you have 3.07s, you have a 5-speed. So at 60 MPH you're turning approximately 1650 RPM (going from memory). Changing to 3.55s will raise that to about 1900 RPM. Not much of a change, and certainly not enough to bump you up to the "fat" part of the horsepower curve.

The oxygen sensor could account for the rich smell. If it isn't reading accurately, the ECU may be "overclocking" the injectors because it thinks the mix is too lean. The last time I replaced the O2 sensor on my '88 XJ, I could hear it. It's a 4.0L 5-speed, and I began to notice muffled backfiring either in the downpipe or in the catalytic converter when I'd upshift or when transitioning from acceleration to coast. I don't know if an over-rich mix could cause dying at idle, but I suppose if it's VERY rich it might essentially flood out.

Mystery solved. Next case ...

I was thinking the same thing, but a photo from a better angle would clarify. I am absolutely certain that THREE Comanche's did not leave the factory without shackles. I think there's just a misunderstanding as to what a shackle is.

FreakJeep, the shackles on an MJ are at the back end of the springs. Your photo doesn't show me what's happening back there. Take another pic, from a lower perspective and showing the back and of the spring. Without shackles, the suspension would tear itself apart within a few miles.

Right in his second post:

I never see one on the freeway, but they are around. A few days ago I stopped at the bank to cash a check, when I walked out there was an MJ parked next to my XJ.

For ten bucks I would do the same thing. Good call.

Hint: 87MJeff (I think that's his screen name)

I'm wondering why you seem to think you need 4" of lift to run 31" tires when I'm running 31x10.50s on an '88 XJ with the original suspension that has 283,000 miles on it. The MJ has more clearance in the rear than the XJ so 31s should be no problem whatsoever. Especially if you tow, lift seems to me to be a rather bad idea.

We also need a better description of the behavior. A true locker should lock when power is being applied, and unlock when there is no power (coasting). Your friend needs to try going around corners both ways with power being applied, and again both ways coasting. Let us know if the popping is consistent under all circumstances.

Oh, I have no problem with doing a full service (changing the screen) on an AW4. It's the right way to do it. It's just a royal PITA job, and you're almost guaranteed to destroy the upper dip stick tube extension and that's not an easy part to find if you're in a hurry. It's the power flushing that I don't trust.

The real question is why he does NOT hear a popping noise when he turns left.

The AW4 came on-line in 1987, along with the 4.0L engine. It doesn't have a filter that's easy to change, like when you change the engine oil. The "filter" is a screen in the bottom of the tranny. Replacing it requires dropping the tranny pan, which often results in destroying the dip stick tube (which is in two pieces, that don't like to come apart). I replaced the filter/screen in an '88 XJ that I was fixing up for my ex-GF, and once I got it open I was VERY sorry ... there was nothing in the screen that needed to be cleaned or replaced. I'm not convinced about power flushing. I'm old-fashioned. I'd rather just dump the pan and refill on a more frequent basis.

What a coincidence. So they won't have to fix any of them under warranty, but they'll generate a lot more work for their "5-Star" dealers' shops. Machiavellian. Unprintable sons of unwed mothers.