Eagle

The adjuster/tensioner is, as you suspected, the power steering pump. There is an adjusting screw that points toward the air box on the drivers side of the pump. However, before you can make any adjustments, you have to loosen about six bolts that hold the pump to the bracket. IIRC, three aren't too difficult to access from above, and three are nearly impossible to access from anywhere. Best route is to remove the air box to get access.

"Turning over" is the starter spinning the engine. You mean it takes 3 or 4 seconds for it to fire. That's normal with the Renix system (which is what you have in an '89).

Since I started experiencing this problem last year, at least two or three other members here have posted about essentially the same issue. The truck is a stock 1988 4.0L, 5-speed. Runs great while it runs, but after 10 to fifteen minutes it just cuts out and dies. Once it dies, it WILL NOT restart. But if I sit on the side of the road for 45 minutes to an hour -- it fires right up and I can drive it home. Problem is ... there isn't much of anywhere I want or need to go that's withing a 7-1/2 minute drive from my house, so the truck is basically useless. Something is obviously getting heat-soaked, and I don't have much of a clue where to start looking. The CPS is new, and the CPS harness by-pass has been installed. It could be a bad CPS, I guess, but the new one is a factory part and it's very rare for them to be bad. Who else had this problem, and did you ever get it fixed/diagnosed?

This might be good info for the DIY Write-Ups area, but ... does your computer have an "Enter" key? That's far to much text with no paragraph breaks. Makes my head hurt just lookin' at it. If I clone a copy over there, may I have your permission to do a clean-up edit?

No need to go to NAXJA, it has been discussed here. The 4.0L uses a two-piece rear main seal. You do NOT need to drop the transmission, or even unbolt the bellhousing. Drop the oil pan, remove the rear main bearing cap, loosen the other caps, and use a short length of 1/8" brass rod to drive the upper half of the old seal out. Wipe the surfaces of the new upper half with clean motor oil and push it back into place. Put the new lower half in the cap, apply a dab of silicone (RTV) sealant where the two halves meet (try to keep oil OFF the mating surfaces), and reinstall the rear cap. Retorque all the caps. Buy an oil pan gasket for a 1995 or newer 4.0L engine. It's a one-piece gasket that's a LOT eassier to work with than the original, multi-piece gasket set. The most difficult part os getting the oil pan off without destroying it, since the factory glued them one. Then you have to maneuver it around the oil pump pickup, hopefully without knocking it loose from the pump. There's no way to really explain just how to do that, every truck is different. Some people unbolt a motor mount and jack up the engine a bit, other folks haven't needed to do that.

A bad oxygen sensor often results in a rich mix, which prodices unburned hydrocarbons and black smoke. It also destroys catalytic converters pretty quick, since the converter has to work overtime to try to clean up all that stuff.

33 by what? This is a crucial question. Regardless of lift, you will need to extend the bump stops, especially in the front, or else do extensive cutting to allow the tires to clear when the suspension is fully "stuffed." Beyond that, you will need to be very conscious of your tire width and wheel offset/backspacing. Running 31x10.50s on factory 15x7 rims, the inside upper shoulder in the rear consistently rubs the inner fender well when the rear axle gets articulated. Also, the inner sidewall is uncomfortably close to the rear spring. You can get 33s in a 10.50 width, but most are wider, which would create virtually an interference fit in the rear using factory rims. Most aftermarket rims have less backspacing, which helps in the rear but increases the need to carve the fenders in the front. Bottom line, IMHO, is to lift as little as possible and run the smallest tires you can for the trails you intend to run.

It's not that you were miss quoted just the xj leaf will NOT work on an mj Dave, he is not asking about XJ leaves. He is asking if he can bolt an XJ axle into an MJ without moving the spring perches. Answer: No.

Just a thought -- it occurs to me that it would be a lot easier to find people who might need some of the junk I have strewen around here if I didn't have to scroll through 15 "For Sale" ads to find one "Want to Buy" ad. Pete -- any chance we might split up the Classifieds into a "For Sale" area and a 'Wanted" area? Does anyone else think this might make life easier?

Surface rust is rarely confined to the surface. Once it starts to make pits (even small pits), you can't get the rust out of the pits by sanding. You need to use a rust neutralizer (Naval Jelly, Ospho, muriatic acid ... something like that) to stop the rust process and convert watever you couldn't sand away into a stable base. Second problem is that primer is for priming. It is porous, to allow the finish coat to get a "bite" Moisture vapor goes right through primer, so the rust starts right up again. You should paint right after you prime and, conversely, you shouldn't prime until you're ready to paint. Not if you're going to use the vehicle. If you can store it indoors, you can work one panel at a time and then prime each area as it's done ... but don't drive it around in primer.

Nope. In fact, you can be reasonably assured that you DO have to have the alignment checked. I've been playing with cars for over 50 years now, and I haven't had the old "count the turns" trick actually work yet. It gets you in the ballpark, but not close enough to put any serious miles on (unless you don't like your tires). All that changes is the toe-in. You can check that on a level surface with a tape measure.

Your 2WD transmission has a tailshaft and housing that's set up to accept the yoke on the front of the driveshaft. A 4WD transmission doesn't have a tailshaft housing -- it has an output shaft, that mates to the transfer case. The front yoke of the transfer case goes into the back and of the transfer case. To put that transfer case on your transmission you would have to tear down both transmissions and put the 4WD parts onto your box. Anything is possible, but it's work. The ad implies that truck is driveable -- just swap in the entire tranny and transfer case as a unit. Keep in mind that if you have a shortbed, after the swap you'll have to get a new driveshaft.

Out of curiosity, is this a Dana 35 or a Mopar 8-1/4?

Memo to self: Do not reply to any questions by philbert001, because I am not a professional Jeep technician and therefore I am obviously unqualified to say anything about Jeeps. Happy now? Frankly, when you write "At last, someone else who isn't talking out their a$$ ..." -- that sounds a lot to me like someone who is flaming every member of the forum. Reality check -- there is no single answer to most questions, and just because someone's advice might be different from yours does not automatically mean he's talking out his a$$.

Flaming the entire club membership is generally frowned upon. Take a hint ...

It's a torque damper, but I doubt that's the "official" parts catalog name for it. If it's available at all, it's probably a dealer only part. The 6-cylinder engines produce gobs more torque, and they don;t have that gizmo ... which leaves me wondering just how necessary it really is. Does anybody run a 2.5L without that thing?

"Too much" is sort of imprecise. How much end play is there?

Back when I owned a full-size Cherokee, I replaced the front fenders and had patch panels cut into the rear quarters. The work was done by an out-of-work auto body man in a friend's garage. Rather than shoot individual parts and have a vehicle that looked like a patchwork quilt, he shot the whole lower body, from the bottom of the glass down. Didn't shoot any door posts, or the roof. The job used almost an entire gallon of urethane. When he was finished, there was enough paint left to fill a small jar to set aside for touching up nicks. With that as a frame of reference, I'd say to do a Comanche you will need at least 1-1/2 to 2 gallons. The one-part, ready to spray stuff sounds like the cheap enamel that Maaco uses. It'll look good for about a year, then it'll go flat on you and you'll wish you had never heard of it. Go with a two-part urethane paint. It has a decent gloss, and it'll hold the gloss forever.

Another vote for the Monroe SensaTracs. I like them very much. On one MJ I was in urgent need of rear shocks and very short on cash that day, so I just went to Pep Boys and bought the least expensive Gabriel shocks they had. I believe at the time they cost me the princely sum of $9 each. Surprisingly, they ride well and after two-plus years they have not blown up or lost their ability to do what shock absorbers are supposed to do.

An 87 XJ or MJ would have a Peugeot BA 10/5 transmission. I'm not certain what tranny the YJ used in that year. For the XJ and MJ, the change from the BA 10/5 to the AX-15 was made in the middle of the 1989 production year.

I have used that type of fastener several times, but I never used a rivet tool to set them. Should make life a lot easier than doing it the old-fashioned way. Just make certain that the holes you drill aren't oversized (need a tight fit on the barrel of the insert), and be sure you crimp securely or the whole thing will spin when you try to remove a screw down the road. The inserts are typically aluminum -- use anti-sieze on the screw threads.

84 and 85 were carbureted, but there were no MJs in those years. 86 thru 90 were the Renix-based throttle body injection. 91 and newer were the Chrysler multi-port injection. It would really surprise me if the Chrysler engine have the same ports and manifoldsa as the Renix. The MPI engines produce a LOT more horsepower and torque than the TBI engines, and I can't make myself believe that some of the gains weren't from a head/manifold redesign. They did the development work for the 4.0L ... the two engines are essentially the same except for number of pistons, so why would they not port the improvments over to the 2.5L?

:agree:

Sorry -- I was tired and I missed the 4-cylinder part. So you lads are saying that the 1991 and newer 4-cylinder engines did NOT have redesigned ports and manifolds like the 4.lL did? Port height and shape is the same for the Renix 4-cyl and Chrysler 4-cyl engines?

No, the ports on the HO heads are higher up and shaped differently than those on the Renix 4.0L. It is possible to force-fit an HO head and still use the Renix manifolds, but it's not a bolt-on replacement. To keep it simple, the Renix years were 1987 through 1990. A head in that range should bolt right up.