Eagle

What year? How old is the crankshaft position sensor (CPS)?

Do you have this bumper????? Is It for the MJ?????? or is it universal with the mounting kit?????? The one Hornbrod linked to is the same one your first two or three links led to. It's the Fey (brand name) universal mini-pickup bumper. All that changes to adapt to each vehicle is the brackets, which is whey they sell them separately. I had to do a bit of grinding on the brackets to get them to clear the rear pan but aside from that they are fine. It's a functional bumper, but moderately ugly. I find myself looking at the more streamlined bumpers on Rangers and Dakotas and wondering how well or how badly one of those would fit on an MJ.

Exhaust manifold leak?

Nice visual there at the end, too. Real classy guys ...

5/8 inch is way overkill. The close SAE equivalent to a 14mm would be 9/16", and my local spring shop doesn't charge much more for those than they do for the 1/2 inch style. I just think it's easier for my limited mentality to deal with one size, so I've standardized on 1/2".

The factory track bar bolt (axle end) is metric. Going from memory, I'd guess it's 10mm. The original hole on the bracket of my '88 MJ was badly egged out. The previous owner had drilled a new hole to offset the track bar when he lifted the truck, but I hated the lift and removed it so I had to use the original location again. A fellow NAXJA member who happens to live 2 miles from me also happens to be a VW tech, and he happened to have a box full of 10mm super hardened, double thick fender (large O.D.) washers left over from installing some VW factory fix kit. He welded one of those to the face of my bracket and it's been fine ever since.

http://www.huskyspring.com/main.taf?cat=127 http://www.huskyspring.com/Category/cus ... af?cat=142

Spring plates are available through Mopar dealers. My friend just ordered a pair.

Yep. The knob for a TJ or a '99/2000 XJ is a direct replacement, and doesn't fall apart in use.

Yes, I know. No, it will not work.

They are metric.

See my ads in the classifieds. You get the taillights for less than half that, with a whole truck thrown in for nothin' ...

It would not be a "bolt-in" conversion, but didn't someone post pics awhile ago showing late model Cherokee taillights in an MJ?

Check the shipping label. Maybe it will tell you if the shipping was charged to the dealership's account. If so, HIS shipping cost may have been zero. If that be the case, he is both cheating you by overcharging, and stealing shipping services from his employer.

Not a good idea.

I don't think so. But NAXJA was a much different (and, some might say, better) place in the early days, too. As this site grows and attracts more members, we're bound to get a couple of bad apples sooner or later. If that comes to be, I don't think they should be "protected" just because they're a member. That just leaves them at liberty to screw more members.

You are confusing this with the TJ Rubicon "Dana 44" front axle, which uses a Dana 44 (the real one) and the smaller axles, hubs and u-joints found on the standard TJ (and XJ/MJ) Dana 30 front axles.

Guido and Federico (the Kneecap brothers) are standing by, incase the merchandise doesn't show up or isn't as represented.

Nope. The early 8.25s have the same shaft diameter and same number of splines as the D35. The housing and tubes are slightlly stronger, but that's offset (IMHO) by the fact that the 8.25 is a c-clip design and the D35 isn't. As Pete wrote above, it might be worth swapping in an early 8.25 to get a ratio change, but aside from that it's hardly an upgrade at all, and certainly not a "significant" upgrade.

Personally (speaking as a member, not as a moderator -- it's up to Pete to state any "official" position the board may hold), I think after a fair effort to let a seller make good fails to produce a resolution, the seller should be publicly outed so he can't shaft any more members. We aren't shy about letting each other know which vendors don't live up to their promises. Why should someone get a free ride just because they registered on a web forum that doesn't charge for membership?

With disk brakes, it has to be out of a Grand. It's not so much crap in the case, it's that the case IS crap. The Grand Cherokee "Dana 44" has an aluminum case that warps if you look at it cross-eyed. The internals are not fully interchangeable with those of a "real" Dana 44. There's a reason it's for sale for $60. The seller doesn't want to man up and pay somebody to haul it away.

You should replace the radiator just because the original is more than 20 years old and probebly not working very well, but you would NOT need to replace the radiator supports and convert to a 4.0L style radiator. The 3.4L uses the same block as the 2.8L. Use your 2.8L exhaust manifolds and it's a bolt-in conversion. There is an issue regarding balancing of the flywheel. If you decide to go the 3.4L route, we can address that at the appropriate time.

I also get them made locally. IIRC, the last time I had a set made they ran about $6.50 each -- but that's very likely subject to faulty memory. You won't be able to match the exact size. Factory u-bolts for the XJ were 12mm, factory u-bolts for the MJ were 14mm. American sources use American sizes. 1/2" is smaller, and 9/16" is larger. Since I play with both XJs and MJs, I have standardized on using 1/2", made locally by a shop that builds springs for heavy trucks. I figure a NEW, heavy-duty 1/2" u-bolt is at least as good as a 20+ year old, rusty 14mm u-bolt.

The part on the left (in the photo) is the ring gear. The smaller gears (in the photo) are the spider gears. They don't count. In front of them (hidden in the photo) is the pinion gear. You count the teeth on the ring rear and the pinion gear, then divide the ring gear by the pinion gear. If you rotate the ring gear, you should see numbers stamped in the edge. Those are the tooth numbers, and if you perform the above exercise in arithmetic you'll have the ratio.

A chat with the manager of the dealership might be enlightening. He may be stealing parts from the dealership, or he may not. But he very well may be using the dealership's account to ship parts that he is selling privately, and I think the dealership might be interested in that. Even if he's not stealing shipping, the fact he is using the dealership address in private transactions will reflect badly on the dealership if the guy stiffs buyers, as he has been doing. Let us know if that tracking number proves out to be legitimate or fantastical.