Eagle

AAAAARG! I ASSumed the master fluid levels had been checked already. Note to self: DO NOT ASSUME ANYTHING! :doh: It had been. He reported that it was full. He didn't understand that the two chambers are for different ends of the truck.

The big chamber feeds the front brakes, the little chamber feeds the back brakes. Let me guess -- the little chamber is the one that's empty, right? Look for a popped hard line across the rear axle, or somewhere in the area where the lines run along the frame next to the gas tank.

I wonder if we have enough interested members to get a deal on a bunch of those see-through decals of the flag that cover the entire rear window ...

Well done, Sir! As the self-appointed President-for-Life of the International MJ Preservation Society ... I applaud you.

Do you remember who it was? I knew someone who had a factory Stage 3 cam kit that I don't think he ever used. I'd LOVE to pop one of those babies in a fresh 2.5L and see what happens.

Although it sounds like an internal failure of the master cylinder, if that were the case I would expect that both (a) the brakes would NOT hold on a hill, and (B) it would not have happened suddenly. It sounds more like a ruptured line to the rear wheels. When that happens, the pedal still provides braking by the front wheels, but the pedal drops almost to the floor. If possible, jack up the rear axle (put it on jackstands if you have them), then run it in 2WD up to maybe 10 or 15 MPH and slam on the brakes. See if the rear wheels stop spinning.

Agreed. Remember, they aren't making MJs any more. Once you part it out ... it's gone forever. That's a factory front skid plate under there. What other skids does it have? Is there a steel skid under the gas tank?

Oh, yeah? Typical of the "Me" generation. I am offended that you believe in your America. Who the [bleep] gave YOU an America, anyway? I DEMAND that you believe in MY America. Screw YOUR America. (Just kidding!)

If you are nearby and that hitch is decent, you really should go back and get it. Most of the companies that offered good hitches for the MJ discontinued them a long time ago.

turnbuckle? where and what is that?. The sleeve on the draglink. The draglink is the bar from the pitman arm (on the steering box) that runs diagonally downward to the opposite side of the vehicle and connects to the right side steering knuckle. On the upper end, near the steering box, there is a sleeve about 3" long with a clamp around each end. Loosen the clamps and turn the sleeve. This adjusts the length of the drag link to center the steering wheel. Do it when the ROAD wheels are pointed straight and the steering wheel is not locked, and you can just turn the sleeve until the steering wheel is straight. Note that if the drag link has not been adjusted in a long while, it may require large amounts of PB Blaster before you can turn it. There's a special tool for the purpose, but a pipe wrench can be used (and may be necessary if it's really rusted solid).

AAAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

As messed up as it might be, management MIGHT get away with a flag ban on the outside of the buildings, since they own the outside. They have no right whatsoever to tell anyone what they can or cannot display on their motor vehicles, or on their persons. And they also can't tell people what they can have inside their apartments, because even a rented apartment is the occupant's domicile. I foresee an apartment management company that's going to be facing some HUGE legal expenses if they are dumb enough to try to enforce this.

www.huskyspring.com

An infernal (no, that's not a typo. Y'all know exactly what I mean) requires three things to run: Fuel, air, and spark. You have spark, since it'll run on starting fluid. You have air, since it'll run on starting fluid. One way or another, the problem has to be gas.

YIKE!!!!

You also said it will keep running on starter fluid. That rules out the CPS, because with a bad CPS you have no spark. Your problem is the security system killed your fuel pump. Hotwire the fuel pump and I'll bet it'll run.

You don't have death wobble. If it goes away by the time you slow to 45, it isn't death wobble. Once death wobble sets in, you basically have to come to a complete stop to end it. This shake you have -- can you drive the vehicle while it shakes? With death wobble, it feels like a demented djini has grabbed the front of your vehicle and is trying to fling it off the road. You can't control the vehicle, all you can do is slam on the brakes and hope you can stop it before you die. That's why it's called "death wobble" -- because when it shows up, you KNOW you are going to die. I think your tires need to be balanced.

Speaking as a dedicated Jeep enthusiast ... take the FJ Cruiser. Jeep supposedly fixed "most" of the problems endemic to the 1999 WJ by the 2001 model year, but the fact they completely revamped the Quadra-Drive system only a year or two after introducing it tells you it had some major design flaws. The 4.7L engine doesn't like to run below 3,000 RPM. At low speeds, the older Chrysler 5.2L feels like to has a LOT more torque. Neither the 5.2L nor the 4.7L is anything to brag about in the fuel economy department. If you MUST have a WJ of 1999 or 2000 vintage, get a 4.0L with the 242 transfer case. Yes, it's underpowered for the vehicle, but it's reliable.

DO NOT buy a 1999 WJ with the 4.7L V-8 engine and the Quadra-Drive system. I bought one and I had it for all of 9 months before Chrysler bought it back to stop me from going lemon law with it. In that time, it was in and out of the shop probably a dozen times, including once for an entire week while they had a special technician that the factory FLEW IN work on just my Jeep. Every single thing he touched ended up even worse after he had "fixed" it than the totally unacceptable state it had been in before he started. Problems ranged from transmission to transfer case to rear differential to weird electrical gremlins that nobody could trace. Brakes warped on a daily basis. I even had an instance of real, honest to G-d, pee-in-your-pants death wobble ... in a stock vehicle, on the stock wheels and tires, that had never been off-road ... driving down a state highway in New Hampshire at about 50 MPH. Unbelievable. Oh, and did I mention driveline vibrations? DON'T FORGET the driveline vibrations.

Are you sure? I'm not saying that current Saginaw boxes all interchange, but I have converted several AMCs from power to manual or manual to power and the boxes back then all shared a common bolt pattern. I'm really surprised if they changed it so they don't interchange.

I didn't say we removed the ball nut. I said we took the plug out of the end of the ball nut, so the fluid could flow through it rather than press against it.

Even for stock size tires, one ounce is NOTHING. I've pulled three and four 2 or 2-1/2 ounce weights off tires before taking them to the shop to be re-balanced. A total of one ounce for a tire is virtually perfection personified.

I fear your temp gauge is FUBAR. The sensor range is 0 to 88 ohms. 0 ohms is zero resistance, which equates to a short circuit -- grounding the wire directly to the block. With the wire disconnected, the needle should peg to one side, and with the wire grounded the needle SHOULD peg to the opposite side.

For the years you listed, you are correct. For 1984 thru 1986, Selec-Trac referred to an NP 228 or NP229 transfer case. As you know, the 242 should include a 4-Hi Part-time and a 4-Hi Full-time position, so if the selector doesn't have it ... it most likely isn't Selec-Trac. Easy way to prove it to them should be to just flip down the driver's side sun shade. In the older years Jeep put a sticker on the top of the visor that told what 4WD system was in the vehicle. I know assumptions are dangerous, but I assume that practice continued to the end of the XJ.

This is being actively discussed on the "MJ Tech" side. WE don't need a parallel discussion here.