Eagle

AAAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

As messed up as it might be, management MIGHT get away with a flag ban on the outside of the buildings, since they own the outside. They have no right whatsoever to tell anyone what they can or cannot display on their motor vehicles, or on their persons. And they also can't tell people what they can have inside their apartments, because even a rented apartment is the occupant's domicile. I foresee an apartment management company that's going to be facing some HUGE legal expenses if they are dumb enough to try to enforce this.

www.huskyspring.com

An infernal (no, that's not a typo. Y'all know exactly what I mean) requires three things to run: Fuel, air, and spark. You have spark, since it'll run on starting fluid. You have air, since it'll run on starting fluid. One way or another, the problem has to be gas.

YIKE!!!!

You also said it will keep running on starter fluid. That rules out the CPS, because with a bad CPS you have no spark. Your problem is the security system killed your fuel pump. Hotwire the fuel pump and I'll bet it'll run.

You don't have death wobble. If it goes away by the time you slow to 45, it isn't death wobble. Once death wobble sets in, you basically have to come to a complete stop to end it. This shake you have -- can you drive the vehicle while it shakes? With death wobble, it feels like a demented djini has grabbed the front of your vehicle and is trying to fling it off the road. You can't control the vehicle, all you can do is slam on the brakes and hope you can stop it before you die. That's why it's called "death wobble" -- because when it shows up, you KNOW you are going to die. I think your tires need to be balanced.

Speaking as a dedicated Jeep enthusiast ... take the FJ Cruiser. Jeep supposedly fixed "most" of the problems endemic to the 1999 WJ by the 2001 model year, but the fact they completely revamped the Quadra-Drive system only a year or two after introducing it tells you it had some major design flaws. The 4.7L engine doesn't like to run below 3,000 RPM. At low speeds, the older Chrysler 5.2L feels like to has a LOT more torque. Neither the 5.2L nor the 4.7L is anything to brag about in the fuel economy department. If you MUST have a WJ of 1999 or 2000 vintage, get a 4.0L with the 242 transfer case. Yes, it's underpowered for the vehicle, but it's reliable.

DO NOT buy a 1999 WJ with the 4.7L V-8 engine and the Quadra-Drive system. I bought one and I had it for all of 9 months before Chrysler bought it back to stop me from going lemon law with it. In that time, it was in and out of the shop probably a dozen times, including once for an entire week while they had a special technician that the factory FLEW IN work on just my Jeep. Every single thing he touched ended up even worse after he had "fixed" it than the totally unacceptable state it had been in before he started. Problems ranged from transmission to transfer case to rear differential to weird electrical gremlins that nobody could trace. Brakes warped on a daily basis. I even had an instance of real, honest to G-d, pee-in-your-pants death wobble ... in a stock vehicle, on the stock wheels and tires, that had never been off-road ... driving down a state highway in New Hampshire at about 50 MPH. Unbelievable. Oh, and did I mention driveline vibrations? DON'T FORGET the driveline vibrations.

Are you sure? I'm not saying that current Saginaw boxes all interchange, but I have converted several AMCs from power to manual or manual to power and the boxes back then all shared a common bolt pattern. I'm really surprised if they changed it so they don't interchange.

I didn't say we removed the ball nut. I said we took the plug out of the end of the ball nut, so the fluid could flow through it rather than press against it.

Even for stock size tires, one ounce is NOTHING. I've pulled three and four 2 or 2-1/2 ounce weights off tires before taking them to the shop to be re-balanced. A total of one ounce for a tire is virtually perfection personified.

I fear your temp gauge is FUBAR. The sensor range is 0 to 88 ohms. 0 ohms is zero resistance, which equates to a short circuit -- grounding the wire directly to the block. With the wire disconnected, the needle should peg to one side, and with the wire grounded the needle SHOULD peg to the opposite side.

For the years you listed, you are correct. For 1984 thru 1986, Selec-Trac referred to an NP 228 or NP229 transfer case. As you know, the 242 should include a 4-Hi Part-time and a 4-Hi Full-time position, so if the selector doesn't have it ... it most likely isn't Selec-Trac. Easy way to prove it to them should be to just flip down the driver's side sun shade. In the older years Jeep put a sticker on the top of the visor that told what 4WD system was in the vehicle. I know assumptions are dangerous, but I assume that practice continued to the end of the XJ.

This is being actively discussed on the "MJ Tech" side. WE don't need a parallel discussion here.

Nope. The spool valve is at the "top" of the box -- the end facing the input shaft. I'm pretty sure the "thingie" I'm referring to is properly called the "ball nut." It's at the "bottom" of the box -- the end toward the radiator.

I bought everything I need to repair it for 170dlls, including the complete front bumper :brows: SHAZAM! (Note: Before you young, urban yoots accuse me of posting a vulgarism, allow me to 'splain you the origin of the word "Shazam." There you have it.)

Somebody on NAXJA several years ago (might have been Woody, one of the former presidents) IIRC did a single shaft replacement for the CAD and actually used a Dremel to hog out the inner end of the axle tube so he could use the same seal as the driver's side. There's a LOT to be said for using the "correct" part, but it takes a brave man to do that machining with a Dremel. (Although I suppose if you set the seal with enough goop around the outer diameter, the goop will compensate for a bit of gap-itis around the bore of the axle tube.)

You can't estimate revolutions by engine sound. If you had a 4-cylinder tach connected to a 6-cylinder engine, it would be reading too high, not too low. Why? Because all the tach does is count pulses. A 4-banger makes two pulses per revolution, a 6-cylinder makes three pulses per revolution. So the 4-cylinder tach would see three pulses and say, "Hmm, that's 1-1/2 revolutions." Borrow an idle tachometer and use that to verify the actual RPMs at idle, and how it calibrates to the tach in the cluster. No, the old style ("Type 1") tachometers do not have the potentiometer. Check your voltage with a voltmeter. It isn't in the red, and normal operating voltage should be between 13.6 volts and ... ??? 14.2 volts??? ... don't remember the upper limit off the top of my head. Suffice it to say that the system is nominally a 12-volt system, but it doesn't actually run at 12 volts. I don't know what to say about the temp gauge. After the vehicle has sat long enough to completely cool off, does the needle drop to 100 degrees (fully to the left) when you turn on the ignition? If the ignition is on (engine NOT running) and you remove the wire from the temp sender, where does the needle point? If you then ground the wire directly to the engine block (or head) where does the needle point?

You have to remove the dash bezel. Behind that, the rectangular panel that the switch is in is held to the dashboard by three (IIRC) screws. Remove the screws to access the back of the panel and push the switch out.

I think for a road race truck I'd be inclined to use a manual steering box. GM/Saginaw manual boxes should be bolt-ins -- the earliest XJs and MJs actually came with manual boxes (with something ugly like a 24:1 or 28:1 ratio) in the base models unless you bought a package with power steering. I've seen a couple, but never owned one. Back in my pony car racing days, Javelins and AMXs came standard with 20:1 Saginaw manual boxes. The optional power steering box was a 16:1 ratio, IIRC ... and there was also an option for a 16:1 "quick ratio" manual box -- which is what I put in ALL of my Javelins and AMXs. Trying to parallel park with wide tires was a bit of a nuisance, but once the vehicle was rolling even a couple of MPH the steering was schweeeet. (Although I don't think I'd recommend it for rock crawling with 33" tires.) One of my friends used to race a modified AMC Rambler American. By the time he switched over from drag racing to road racing, the QRM boxes were no longer available. So we made one out of a power steering box. We plugged both hose ports on the top of the box. That would have blocked fluid movement and bound up the box, so we removed the plug from the bottom of the piston thingie in the box (don't remember the correct name -- "recirculating ball nut," perhaps?) to allow the fluid to just slosh back and forth as the piston moved, and all was good. Hmmmm ... Available again, but a bit pricey: https://www.borgeson.com/catalog2/produ ... 1680fd32c4

Old age definitely has an effect on eyesight. Yeah, thanks for the reminder. As if I needed more reminders. Trouble is, in my case it's affecting both near and distance vision. There was a time when I could read a JC Whitney catalof without glasses. No more. Oh, well. That's why they make scopes for rifles (and shotguns).

Another factor is that, if I understood the question correctly, these are the front hard lines. Those have to punch through the inner fender walls. The hole is just large enough for the tubing, it isn't large enough to pass an end fitting through. To each his own, but I would rather keep the small hole and make a flare myself rather than butcher the sheet metal so I could get a pre-fitted end through the fender.

The only wiring for a 4WD of that vintage is the vacuum switch for the 4WD light on the dash. The light is already there (although it may not have a bulb in it). For simplicity, you don't actually NEED a light. Set up the front so you either use an axle with no disconnect, or shim the disconnect so it's always engaged, and skip all the vacuum garbage. After all, you have that big lever in the floor. If it's forward, you're in 2WD. If it's sticking up, you're in 4WD.

Put those tires on again, and mark where each one goes. If you have the shimmy problem, rotate ('X') them, and try again. If that doesn't stop it, rotate again, but this time just move them front to back and back to front on the same side. The goal here is to try to isolate if one tire is the culprit.