Eagle

No wonder your tranny is trashed. The Peugeot tranny in the 88's is NOT suitable for hot-rodding.

I know it's an SAE (fine) thread, and it's a straight thread, not a pipe (tapered) thread. Going from memory, I think it's either 5/16" or 3/8" and I'm leaning toward 3/8". Bolts are cheap -- buy one of each and you've got it covered.

You're missing the point, Mate. You asked how much lift is needed to run 33" tires. The answer may vary considerably depending on the backspacing of the rims you run, because how far out the tires extend (or don't extend) is going to affect where they rub, and how much they rub. If you don't have wheels, then your question cannot be answered.

Yeah. Hose is made of rubber. Steel tube is made of ... steel. The fact that you can bend the steel line by hand doesn't make it "flexible." It makes it bendable -- once. Bend it in the same place two or three times and it'll break. Despite the fact you can shape it to fit, it is considered to be rigid tubing. That's why you'll generally see it referred to in these posts as "hard line."

It isn't the same. End of discussion. The Model 20 used in the MJ had one-piece axles.

When I played it, there was a link over on the right to another one for a Chrysler Turbo Encabulator

They are? Who? I have searched far and wide and not seen anything. You can buy aftermarket bumpers that will fit on an MJ, but they are not even close to being duplicates of the original. That Fey you posted a link to is a standard, universal replacement bumper. You can buy them at Pep Boys. For anyone looking to restore an MJ, that is NOT a suitable replacement for an OEM bumper.

Specifically -- on what rims, with what backspacing?

It's not a hose. It's a steel tube. Use anti-seize on the threads and on the flare (but not inside the tube) when you put the new line on.

Drop brackets lower the control arms 4 inches. That means with a 4" lift the suspension geometry is the same as stock. At 8" of lift, you would be looking at control arm lengths that otherwise would be appropriate for a 4" lift. Obviously, control arm drop brackets don't in any way affect the driveshaft. They also don't affect the trackbar. Why are you running a dropped pitman arm? Got bump steer?

Keep in mind that the AW-4 behind the 2.5L 4-cylinder was only in the MJ. You won't find that if you go searching junkyards for wrecked XJs.

Pete is correct. Trying to gain lift using longer shackles is an EXCELLENT way to kill your spring pack. It looks cheap in the short term, but it becomes more expensive very quickly when you have to replace or rebuild the whole spring pack because you tried to save a few bucks.

No, the index mark on the OUTSIDE of the holder (the "quill," which is the part in your first photo) lines up with a mark on the outside of the transmission or transfer case (depending on whether you have 2WD or 4WD).

That's quite possible. You said it won't go into reverse. Is that correct, or did you mean that it won't go into reverse with the engine running? If you shut off the engine, can you put it into reverse and then start the engine?

Yes. There's an index mark on it, and the way the index mark gets lined up is depending on how many teeth are on the plastic speedo drive gear.

The same shocks fit both 2WD and 4WD.

:doh: Why didn't I think of that? That could also explain why it happened all of a sudden.

Use the ECU you have -- the one from the '89. The fact that it's for an automatic won't make any significant difference. As noted, the tranny runs off a separate, free-standing harness. Double check the bolts on the exhaust manifold. Yes, you are correct that a lean RUN would call for more fuel, but assuming the system is functioning somewhat, the mixture only gets rich enough to bring the A/F ratio back to the optimum at the O2 sensor. The reason an air leak at the exhaust maifold creates such problems is that it adds air (oxygen) into the exhaust stream after combustion, so it alters the ratio at the O2 sensor so the sensor isn't actually reading what the mix was in the combustion chamber. One other thought: Is it getting up to temperature? The Renix ECU doesn't respond to sensor inputs while it's in open loop (warm-up) mode. It uses a pre-mapped fuel curve, which is necessarily on the rich side because it's intended to make the engine run when the air coming in is cold and dense. If your ECU isn't getting into closed loop mode, it's not even seeing what the O2 sensor is trying to tell it. On the Renix, the temp sensor for the ECU is the one on the driver's side of the block (near the knock sensor). You might check that to ensure that it's operating in-spec.

The flex hose doesn't run to the wheel cylinders, it runs to the axle. Exactly what are you trying to remove? The hard line into the wheel cylinders should be an SAE (English) size, not metric.

Let's start at the beginning. You want to stop your tires from rubbing. You are running 31s. Many people run 31s with NO lift and rubbing isn't a problem. So: 1. What rims are you running, and what is the backspacing? 2. Where are the tires rubbing? 3. Under what conditions are the tires rubbing?

I wonder how many tries it took to make that video. I am simply gobsmacked (to borrow a phrase from my favorite SF author) that he made it through the whole thing with a straight face, and without mangling the terminology.

Yeah, but the question you asked in your first post was: "If I keep the full-width front axle, what should I run in the back?" The answer is obviously the AMC 20 that you already have.

Probably ZJ V8 front coils (or late-model XJ Up Country -- same part number), and shocks such as Monroe Reflex. And maybe a ZJ V8 front sway bar. Does your D44 rear axle have 10x2-1/2" brakes or 10x1-3/4"?

Anything with 2-1/2" wide springs and similar arch. Some years of the Dakota, Explorer, and S-10 are candidates, but I'm afraid I don't remember which years.

You should be good. Under normal conditions there's nothing coming out that port anyway, so no pressure that might force fluid around the threads of a dry plug.