Eagle

The electrical plug is mounted in what's referred to as the "quill", which is what holds the speedometer drive gear in the transmission. That comes out -- the's a 'C' shaped retainer that's held in by a single bolt. Just use the quill from your old transfer case. Pay attention to orientation. It get's adjusted to different orientations depending on the tooth count of the speedo gear. Make certain it goes into the new t-case the same way it was in the old one.

BTW -- THe loss of vacuum is not normal. When it does that, it means you have a vacuum leak. The usual place is where the vacuum lines run near the battery tray to the vacuum reserve cannister (also known as the blimp or the football) behind the front bumper).

No, the basic control arm mounts are exactly the same. The extra reinforcing for the MJ is formed gusset plates that could be bought separately and added to an XJ. I still have an unused set of them in my basement.

Exactly. Brings back memories -- vacuum wipers at the top of Pike's Peak (14,000 feet) on a foggy day ...

Doesn't look better than the C4x4 to me. The mounting bolts ALL go into the bottom of the frame, and there's nothing extending back along the frame. They say it stands up to side pulls, but the actual mounts for the tow hooks are just flat plate sticking out the front of the assembly. I think a side pull would twist 'em right off.

If you have it set in defrost mode, the flappers are already set to direct air to the defrost vents. You have to test it with the flappers set for either HEAT (feet only) or VENT (front of dash only). The fan is not slowly dying -- the flow of air is gradually being redirected from the foot or dash vents to the defrost vents. The overall flow of air is not being reduced.

First -- what year MJ, and what engine and transmission? Second - What makes you think "there should be a sensor that kicks up the idle when an electrical load is sensed...such as the AC"? The fact some Japanese car you once owned had such a thing, perhaps? Third - I doubt the problem is your fan speed. The HVAC duct controls in the MJ are controlled by vacuum. The default position for the flappers is to send all air to the defrost outlets on the top of the dashboard. When there is a vacuum leak in the system, when the engine is pulling lots of vacuum (such as when coasting), there's plenty to hold the flappers where you have them set. When the engine vacuum drops (such as going up a long upgrade in 5th gear), the flappers shift and the air gets diverted to the defrost. Pay attention to what's happening next time you drive it and I think you may find that, rather than the fan speed dropping, you are noticing a reduction in airflow to your feet or the front of the dash because it's all going to the defrost.

I have had the same idea, but I haven't pursued it, either. All it needs is four feet to hold it to the rain gutter.

Did I say "Take the top shim out"? If the gap between the front edge of the door and the rear edge of the fender is about the same as it was before, and about the same as the door on the driver's side -- leave the upper shim in. If the gap at the upper hinge is much larger than it was before, take the shim out.

Shim(s) between the bottom hinge and the door.

The two outlets on the front metering block (that thingie just below the master cylinder) that go to the rear are to forward two. The one that comes out the "nose" is the one you keep. The one out the forward bottom is the bypass, and that gets blocked off. Go to a good hardware store and buy a 5/8 SAE (fine thread) bolt. The shortest available is 1" -- cut it off to about 3/8" long, put an O-ring around it, put a dab of RTV on the end, and screw it into that front/bottom outlet. Run ONE new line from the "nose" outlet in front directly to the flex hose at the rear axle. Done.

It's October 15 -- two weeks BEFORE Halloween. Yesterday morning I scraped ice off my windshield in the morning. Today it was 32 degrees and snowing when I left work at 4:00 p.m., and the ground was white. I'm into my 7th decade and I can't EVER remember snow actually making on the ground this early in the year. I'm sure the global warming apologists will be along any minute to explain how colder weather than we've ever seen is really a product of global warming. So how is it that when I was a kid we went trick-or-treating in tee shirts, and now the kids need down parkas under their costumes. Idjits.

There are no Cherokees with disc brakes in the rear. Period. You can find GRAND Cherokees with disc brakes in the rear, but the Grand Cherokee "Dana 44" is a special D44 with an aluminum differential housing that's even weaker than a D35 housing, so IMHO swapping in one of those is a downgrade rather than an upgrade. Plus, because the aluminum housing has different dimensions, a lot of parts for a normal D44 won't fit the aluminum version.

Anything can be swapped into anything. Can you be more specific as to what you have in mind?

Is there any smell? Where does the smoke come out? My first guess is that your heater core leaks, and when it's hot you're actually getting steam from heated coolant inside the cabin.

AAAAARG! I ASSumed the master fluid levels had been checked already. Note to self: DO NOT ASSUME ANYTHING! :doh: It had been. He reported that it was full. He didn't understand that the two chambers are for different ends of the truck.

The big chamber feeds the front brakes, the little chamber feeds the back brakes. Let me guess -- the little chamber is the one that's empty, right? Look for a popped hard line across the rear axle, or somewhere in the area where the lines run along the frame next to the gas tank.

I wonder if we have enough interested members to get a deal on a bunch of those see-through decals of the flag that cover the entire rear window ...

Well done, Sir! As the self-appointed President-for-Life of the International MJ Preservation Society ... I applaud you.

Do you remember who it was? I knew someone who had a factory Stage 3 cam kit that I don't think he ever used. I'd LOVE to pop one of those babies in a fresh 2.5L and see what happens.

Although it sounds like an internal failure of the master cylinder, if that were the case I would expect that both (a) the brakes would NOT hold on a hill, and (B) it would not have happened suddenly. It sounds more like a ruptured line to the rear wheels. When that happens, the pedal still provides braking by the front wheels, but the pedal drops almost to the floor. If possible, jack up the rear axle (put it on jackstands if you have them), then run it in 2WD up to maybe 10 or 15 MPH and slam on the brakes. See if the rear wheels stop spinning.

Agreed. Remember, they aren't making MJs any more. Once you part it out ... it's gone forever. That's a factory front skid plate under there. What other skids does it have? Is there a steel skid under the gas tank?

Oh, yeah? Typical of the "Me" generation. I am offended that you believe in your America. Who the [bleep] gave YOU an America, anyway? I DEMAND that you believe in MY America. Screw YOUR America. (Just kidding!)

If you are nearby and that hitch is decent, you really should go back and get it. Most of the companies that offered good hitches for the MJ discontinued them a long time ago.

turnbuckle? where and what is that?. The sleeve on the draglink. The draglink is the bar from the pitman arm (on the steering box) that runs diagonally downward to the opposite side of the vehicle and connects to the right side steering knuckle. On the upper end, near the steering box, there is a sleeve about 3" long with a clamp around each end. Loosen the clamps and turn the sleeve. This adjusts the length of the drag link to center the steering wheel. Do it when the ROAD wheels are pointed straight and the steering wheel is not locked, and you can just turn the sleeve until the steering wheel is straight. Note that if the drag link has not been adjusted in a long while, it may require large amounts of PB Blaster before you can turn it. There's a special tool for the purpose, but a pipe wrench can be used (and may be necessary if it's really rusted solid).