Eagle

Looks like it has Gambler wheels. The wheels alone are worth the $300.

Camaro and Firebird. Also available from GM as a crate engine.

No, you have an AX-4 transmission that requires a 9-1/8" clutch. It doesn't make any difference if your transmission is a 4-speed or a 5-speed.

It appears the question is about updating a Renix to the newer Mopar system.

What is the diameter of your old clutch disc? Is it 9-1/8" or 9-11/16"? It should be one or the other. Are you saying that neither of the new pressure plates would bolt up to your flywheel?

There's an aftermarket PRNDL that mounts directly on the column. Somebody here installed one and posted photos and a link to the company. Don't think it was Hornbrod. Maybe 87jeffmj?

Probably a good deal, but figure on needing an ECU. It's mounted on the inside of the driver's side front fender, near the air box. Sounds like that's the corner that got hit, so I'd bet the ECU is history. The tranny will be an AX-15, though. Rear axle could be either a D35 or an 8.25 -- depends on whether or not it had ABS.

Another satisfied customer. :cheers:

55 MPH is the critical point for shimmy caused by tire balance. When it happens, can you keep driving, or do you have to stop the truck to end the wobble? If you can keep driving, it is NOT death wobble. There's a reason it's called that ...

See, now you've even got Pete confused. Me, too, but I think what we have here is a misappropriation of terminology. "MPI" (or "MPFI") is the acronym for Multi-Port Injection (or Multi-Port Fuel Injection). As Pete noted, ALL the 4.0L engines are multi-port injected. The other option is TBI (Throttle Body Injection), which is what was used on the '86 through '90 4-cylinder engines. I think what you mean is that you want to upgrade from the Renix MPFI system to the newer Mopar MPFI system.

Tire balance, of course. Or possibly a bent wheel rim. First, are you REALLY experiencing death wobble, or do you have a shimmy and you heard the term "death wobble" and assumed that any shaking of the front wheels is death wobble?

Yes. But you have to be sure to use the flywheel (flex plate) that corresponds to the year of the electonics you'll be running. If you're going to switch to the 93 injection/ignition, be sure you keep the '93 flex plate on the engine and use the '93 CPS. They are NOT the same spacing.

Most "straight up" toggle switches have TWO terminals, and no light. I would use a factory switch, to maintain the stock appearance. Most of them are ON-OFF toggles with a third terminal for the indicator light. It should be easy to play around with the switch on the bench with a battery and a test light to see which terminal does what. One terminal is power in. One terminal is power out to the device. The third terminal is to ground, to complete the circuit for the indicator light.

Be sure to check the code on the side of the engine to see if the bearings were .010 under from the factory. If so, there's a letter code stamped in a boss on the side of the block next to the distributor.

The A pillar is part of the unibody. I doubt very much you'll have much luck pulling it out. It would be better (and probably easier, believe it or not) to cut the corresponding section out of a wrecked Cherokee and weld it into your truck.

What doesn't fit what? The pressure plate won't bolt up to the flywheel? The disc won't slide onto the transmission input shaft? And where did you buy the clutch, and what brand is it?

They brought back the pressure bottle when they came out with the Libertine. It's really a good system -- if the "radiator" cap isn't made of plastic.

Back when the kit came out, it was widely understood (which is why I wrote) that it WAS the engine room harness and parts from a 1994 YJ. As long as Jeep was building a version of the HO motor and puting it in something like a Wrangler, the parts would have kept rolling off the assembly line (or rolling in the door from subcontractors, more likely). Now that Jeep has retired the 4.0L engine, there's no flow of the parts, so they must have to be specially made up in smaller quantities.

I very nearly went through the same thing a couple/three years ago. Crush injury just above the ankle, swelling, intense pain, obvious signs of sepsis beginning to run up the leg. Idiot doctor at the VA just kept pushing antibiotics at me, and it kept getting worse. When I went back for the third time in three days to point out (again) that it seemed to be getting worse instead of better, she FINALLY let a surgeon take a look at it. His comment was "Why didn't they send you to me ten days ago?" He carved open my leg on the spot, cleaned it out, then booked me into the hospital so I could be kept on a combination of oral AND intravenous antibiotics until they were certain they had it under control. The surgeon told me I was lucky not to have lost the foot. My sympathies, but hang in there. Remember, automatics are better for rock crawling anyway.

No, that is not correct. There is also a thermal switch in the driver's side radiator tank that turns on the fan if the temperature gets above a certain level. I don't recall what the magic number is ... I think it's either 225 or 240 degrees. Might be ON at 240 and OFF at 225.

I don't mean to hijack this thread but Pete's comment above brought up a question I pondered awhile back. It contradicts my conclusion. Gearing doesnt increase power (unless you stay in first gear). Specifically, see Eagle's comments in my thread below. My conclusion was the drivetrain would generate the same torque if I wound the engine a little higher. I am running 3:07 and was considering switching to 3:73 but I concluded I would have the same result (or close depending on speed of course) if I kept it in 4th gear rather than 5th. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18501&hilit=gearing Anyone agree or disagree? More gear at the axle can't increase the amount of torque or horsepower produced by the engine at any particular RPM, but the torque and horsepower at the rear wheels are a product of the engine power multiplied by the total final drive ratio. This does not contradict the conclusions from your other thread. More gear allows whatever power/torque the engine is producing to apply more leverage to the rear wheels. Conversely, because of the increased rolling radius, larger tires work the opposite. 31x10.50-15s, as an example, run just about 10 percent fewer revolutions-per-mile than stock 225/75-15s. That's the equivalent of putting in 10 percent LESS gear. In other words, if you have a 5-speed with 3.08 gears, on 31s you have the equivalent of 2.77 gears. Worse, the bigger tires are heavier, so you have less gear trying to overcome MORE inertia. Yes, you might have the same result leaving it in fourth gear ... if you only drive in fourth gear. But you would not see any improvement in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. Regearing the axle gives you more power multiplication in ALL gears.

Sorry to disappoint you, but RENIX is an acronym for RENault-BendIX and it refers to the ignition/injection system, not the cooling system. Your 4-banger is also a RENIX, it just happens to be a throttle body injection rather than multi-port. Your truck uses the exact same CPS and coil/ignition module as the 87-90 4.0L.

10-4 One can never have too many toggle switches.

JC Whitney sells (or used to sell) replacement rocker panels for the 4-door XJ. Those would also work for the MJ and I assume (always dangerous, I know) that they should be available from any of the mass body panel vendors like Sherman, Veng, etc. I don't know of anyone offering cab corners.

Not me, mon. AFAIK that's entirely correct. Now watch somebody prove us both wrong ...