Eagle

Start by opening the top on the master cylinder. There are two chambers. See if one of them is empty. The big chamber feeds the front brakes, the smaller chamber feeds the rear brakes. Once you figure out which end lost brakes, start tracing lines until you find where one popped.

31x10.50-15 ... on stock Jeep rims. 31s will still tuck up inside the sheet metal. There will be slight rubbing on the lower control arms when the steering wheel is cranked all the way to lock, but that's something that you quickly learn to avoid ... or you can shim the steering stops to block it. Install WJ LCAs, and they have an offset bend that cures this completely.

I see that it has a CCV Correct. And the CCV system is a pair of open tubes. "PCV" typically implies a PCV valve -- which you won't find on a Jeep 4.0L engine. (I'm not convinced that was a good design decision, but it is what it is.)

Your eyes deceive you. It is commonly assumed that Eagle's sense of humor was surgically removed by his second wife. The truth is, that's a scurrilous lie. I was born during WW2 and there was a severe shortage of senses of humor at Bryan Army Air Station. I wasn't issued one at birth, and my parents moved me off post before supplies became available.

Not so fast, there, Speedy Gonzalez. Don't forget that the C101 connector on the firewall disappeared mid-1989. And the 87s didn't have a ballast resistor. Nonetheless, there are certainly a LOT of photos already posted of most parts of various MJs.

Yeah, they appreciate a little TLC from time to time.

Ideally, you should use engine paint. The coolant runs at over 200 degrees. I don't know what the oil gets up to, but I'm pretty sure it's quite a bit hotter than 200.

Whatever happened to "pound them out and replace with new studs from the dealer"? I know we're all Jeepers and Jeepers love to do everything on the cheap, but every once in awhile it just makes so much sense to do a job right, so you don't make life harder on yourself down the road, that I just wonder at the masochistic "Let's find the absolute best way to make life as annoying as possible" approach I sometimes see people recommending to other people. How much could two new studs POSSIBLY cost? :wall: :wall: :wall:

You must have had a very sick puppy of an engine, because 31" tires with 4.56 gears would equate to 2233 RPM in 5th gear at 60 MPH.

For testing, use conventional bulbs. LEDs don't draw enough current to make a standard flasher flash. Once you get things working normally, you'll have to use an electronic flasher that's NOT load sensitive (i.e. the type you use with a towing package).

could you explain this better? ive read multiple posts that all have similar numbers but these seem a bit tite from one size tire to the next. over the years ive come to trust your opinion on anything that involves math and technical fact, but wen i look at the math posted elceware and the random calculators, these numbers just look off. i assume that these numbers are were they should be and not what they would be to keep the factory final drive ratio :dunno: did i answer my own question? for example: had 28"tires with a 3.07 ratio and wanted to go to 33" tires i would want a 3.62 ratio. but why would i want the same 3.07 bs so up it to 3.73. http://www.izook.com/gearcalc.htm (i went 4.10 from 3.07 wen i got 33" tires) The only way to actually calculate equivalencies is to use the revolutions per mile for the different tire sizes. NONE of the on-line calculators do that -- they use the nominal diameter, so they are incorrect from the start. The spreadsheet I made up many years ago was created after researching a lot of tire brochures and manufacturers' web sites to obtain revolutions per mile. (And, of course, another tire of the same nominal size would be slightly different.) To answer your question, the ratios I recommend have NOTHING to do with matching the factory ratio. The 3.07 ratio, especially, was a factory mistake from the outset. They used that for one reason: to optimize the mileage and emission ratings on the old government tests. For actual driving, the 3.07 ratio is a joke. 1600 RPM at 60 MPH in 5th gear? Even the non-HO version of the 4.0L engine has its torque peak at 2400 RPM ... the gear ratio should be chosen to cruise on the torque peak at highway speed. Even 70 MPH was only 1883 RPM with the 3.07s. 3.73s get you up to 2287 RPM at 70 MPH (on stock tires) ... that's getting closer to where it should be. The ratios I suggested above are for a balance between daily driving and having a decent crawl ratio for off-road. No attempt was made to match factory final drive ratio.

That just don't look right, someone tried too hard... :ack: I like it. It's different, but it respects the Jeep family lineage. Much better than turning a perfectly good MJ into a low rider with full body effects. :wall:

My view is: 3.54 for stock tires 3.73 for 30" tires 4.10 for 31" tires 4.56 for 32" tires 4.88 for anything larger than 32" tires (4.88 is the deepest gear available for the Dana 30)

For reference -- the 4.0L does not have a PCV.

Whaddaya mean? He says it's an '86. That was the first year for the MJ. This truck is OBVIOUSLY the long-lost factory prototype. It's a one-of-a-kind. Probably worth at least $75,000 in unrestored condition. It's a bargain. Someone should absolutely snap it up.

Cuttin torch and welder are sorta tough on the fiberglass header panel of the XJ/MJ. Take a look at the stock header panel behind the headlights, and it's already set up for round lights. I think a halfway decent body man with some fiberglass experience could easily modify the stock header panel to accept a Gladiator grille and full-size headlights.

If your control arm bushings are deteriorated, that's a factor. Just keep in mind that, although that may make it easier for death wobble to take place, it doesn't CAUSE it. As an example, my '88 Cherokee was bought new so I know the control arms (and bushings) are the originals. It'll be 22 years old in January, and it's now at 287,000+ miles. I'm running 31x10.50 tires and there's not a hint of death wobble (or even shimmy). What are your alignment specs ... especially caster angle?

L'il bro's first name does begin with a 'B'. I'll let you call him "Bubba," though. Did I mention that he was the starting center on an undefeated high school football team -- in his sophomore year?

Not that one.... this grill I don't know where you could shrink it enough to make it fit.. unless you custom fabbed all the parts. But it would look sweet if someone did. I think that could be very easily done Out there on Highway Fifty-one

I want to know what he used to make that thing behind the pickup. Looks like he grafted the rear body half from a Mercedes Gelandewagen onto a CJ-7 chassis.

I like the shot with the little ATV winch on the front.

It was designated "4.2 Liter" in the YJ Wrangler, but back in earlier AMC days (into the 1960s and up through the 70s, at least) it was the 258 c.i.d. (Cubic Inch Displacement) in-line six. Yes, the 4.2L is the engine the 4.0L was based on. It was a VERY good engine. Better than the 4.0L? Probably not. It's hard to compare them, because the 4.0L was introduced with MPFI and the 4.2L was never offered from the factory with any kind of fuel injection. With a smaller bore and longer stroke, it was a torque engine. Plenty of low end, but it didn't wind up real quick (you'd never mistake it for a V6), and trying to run it higher than 3,000 RPM was an exercise in self-deception. The connecting rods were longer and skinnier than the rods in the 4.0L. We had several of them in the family over the years. No problems.

Texas, actually ...

Crown makes 'em If he can't find one locally, have him call Todd or Tony at Bradshaw Jeep in Connecticut. They can fix him up. 860-274-8834, Option 3 for parts. Mention "Harwood" and they'll be sure to double the price for ya.

What do you mean by "two-piece" front disc brakes? That's a term I am not familiar with.