Eagle

I've never seen one off of the truck, does this look right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Valance-Low ... 021wt_1270 That's the right part ... except that's for a 1997 thru 2001 Cherokee. It won't fit an MJ. You need one for a 1984 thru 1996 Cherokee.

But it runs? So you need new rings and a valve job. As to what's involved with the newer engines: Your engine spans the 1987 through 1990 model years. In 1991 Chrysler brought out the HO version, with a different injection and ignition system. Part of the change involved the design of the head -- the ports were raised and the shape changed slightly. The lower end remained mostly unchanged. Your engine uses a knock sensor, which mounts on the lower left side of the block. The 1991 and newer engines do not use the knock sensor, but I believe the threaded boss to accept it remained on the block for several years. In 1999 the 4.0L head as used in the Grand Cherokee was changed to add a boss for mounting individual coil packs at the spark plugs. This revision didn't get to the Cherokee until 2000. If you don't want to rebuild your existing engine, IMHO the easiest route to follow would be a junkyard engine from a mid- to late-90s Jeep, take off the head, have your old head refurbished, and install your head on the "new" lower end.

I'm pretty sure it's welded. It isn't a "bolt" -- it's a stud.

Because on the old XJs and MJs that 20-minute job takes maybe 20 seconds. That's why.

We have NO idea how easy we have it with our MJs and older XJs. I was trying hard to convince myself the newer iron, with OBD-II for diagnostics, was better. It's not. I've been driving my wife's 2000 Cherokee while some work is pending on mine. Been noticing that the turn signal has been locking up -- sometimes it blinks, sometimes it lights up steady, and sometimes it blinks two or three times and then locks up. So, this afternoon I went to Auto Zone and bought a new flasher. Oh ... my ... Gawd. First, it takes a 5-prong combination flasher that costs $15. That's bad enough. But ... YOU HAVE TO DISASSEMBLE THE DASHBOARD TO REPLACE IT! The socket is up above the OBD-II port and driver's side footwell light. They could have pointed the socket down so you could just reach up and pull out the old flasher, but ... no. It's mounted horizontally, with the socket facing to where you can't reach it without removing the knee valance in front of the driver. Idjits. Whatever happened to "Let's design vehicles to be easier to work on"? Gotta keep my MJs running just as long as humanly possible.

You can use two breaker spaces for a feed to a sub-panel. Post a photo of your breaker panel ... with the door open.

Since the bushing are in several MM sizes, the best method may be to measure the sway bar with digital calipers. That's what I did and I got the correct size bushings with no problems. That'll work, but the sway bars are not made to a tolerance of .001 inch. I just use a set of open end wrenches. Find the one that just fits around a straight section of the bar. IIRC, there are three possible sizes.

Jasper is a rebuilder. They don't sell new. If the mechanic who has this thing is a client and you have a decent relationship, I would ask if you can take the tranny (and transfer case) on speculation, and pay for it if it checks out. Jeep changed from the BA10/5 to the AX-15 in the middle of the 1989 model run, so if this hulk says "Chrysler" on it, it is almost certainly an AX-15. It's easy to tell -- the BA10/5 case is split lengthwise into a left half and a right half. The AX-15 has a front section, a middle spacer, and a rear section. No split lengthwise. Remember the input spline count for the transfer case went from 21 splines to 23 splines wiuth the AX-15, so you will need the transfer case with the tranny. Your '87 transfer case won't work with an AX-15.

Cherokee parts from the front doors (A pillar) forward will work, but be aware that they don't ALL work. In this instance, the bumper will be fine regardless of year. But, for example, Jeep changed the design of the grille, headlight doors, and header panel in 1990. The 1990 and newer grille and headlight doors can be used on 1989 and older MJs (and XJs, for that matter) only if you also change the header panel to the new style.

The biggest issue is that the oil used with R12 is not compatible with the oil used in an R134a system. The usual recommendation if you want to do it really right is to replace the drier and drain the old oil out of the compressor. Then you simply recharge with R134a that has the correct oil in it. However ... the folks who make the conversion kits have some kind of special oil or oil additive that allows you to just evacuate the old R12, pull a vacuum, and recharge using their R134a with the special oil. A friend (retired Jeep service manager) tells me he has done at least fifty of these conversions and never had a problem. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 13609_0_0_

He responded to mine. I'll call him on Monday.

This is a Jeep board. Why would you assume that ANYONE here might know the product code for some Toyota engine? "N/A" is the acronym for "Not Applicable" or "Not Available." How can a version that is not available come in anything? Sorry, but you're still not making a lot of sense here ...

:agree:

Are you really talking about a skid plate (steel), or are you talking about the gravel shield (rubber/plastic)?

Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to follow up and see if he still has it.

It could be the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) It could be the fuel filter It could be the coil/ignition module How old is your CPS?

IF you can find a Jeep dealer that hasn['t scrapped the old scan tool that could read inputs from the Renix system, you take it to said dealer and pay them an exhorbitant price to hook up the scanner and read the sensor. However, since many "Jeep" dealers today are Chrysler dealers who have been required to add Jeeps to their lineup, they don't have the old tools. Basically, if there's any doubt -- just replace it.

I don't remember which site I used, but I was able to find a set of center caps for my brother-in-law's Chevy PU -- and he's in Chile. He sent me a photo of the wheels on his truck and I was able to match them. Check these out: http://www.centercaps.net/ http://www.ehubcap.com/

While I don't have first-hand experience building a stroker, I do have second-hand experience -- working on a friend's stroker, and then helping troubleshoot the problems after it was in the vehicle. And I used to spend a lot of time on the strokers forum, plus corresponding with guys like Dino. All of which is why, even though I have built two street engines (V8s) and one race engine (V8), I would not undertake to build my own stroker engine. If I were to win the lottery I might spend the money to buy one from Hesco, but I just don't think it's something that the vast majority of us here are really prepared to execute (properly). And I also don't think it's worth the money involved.

I've been aware of the possibility of stroking the 4.0L using the 258 crank for a long, long time - well before anyone was offering commercially-built versions. It's intriguing, but IMHO it is not something the average do-it-yourselfer should even consider attempting. The problem is that the deck heights between the 4.0L and the 258 blocks are slightly different, which means that there's no easy way to get the correct compression and avoid detonation. The best solution seems to be to use 4.0L rods (which are stronger than 258 rods) with custom pistons. But they have to be custom pistons, because the vertical location of the wrist pins is non-standard. Not being wealthy, after years of considering the options, I've decided that if I ever have to rebuild the engine in one of my XJs or MJs, I'll keep it a 4.0L and go with an aftermarket cam grind. Whether or not a stroker makes sense for you depends a lot on how you drive and will use the vehicle. The longer stroke means the engine can make a lot more low-end torque. It'll make more horsepower at the top, too, but that's not where the advantage lies. If you want low-end "grunt" power (torque, in other words), take a good look at a stroker. If you drive mostly on the street and your style of driving is to spend a lot of time in the upper part of the RPM band, IMHO you'll get more bang for the buck by building a stock 4.0L and choosing a more aggressive cam grind for higher RPM.

If it's only the low beams that have gone AWOL, the problem is in the dimmer switch (on the steering column), not in the headlight switch.

I ran my old XJ with 3.07 gears and the 31" tires off my MJ. I hated every second and every mile of it.

Well, yes there is "only" one bracket per door ... but look at it. The one bracket runs the full height of the door and has reinforced mounting plates welded onto it. It's a lot more than just putting a small piece of angle inside the door skin at each mirror mount. The purpose, obviously, is to keep the mirrors rigidly in place. If you mount them just to the door skin, they'll move all over the place as the skin flexes.

The factory used four different heights. Are these longer than the longest factory ones, or longer than the short ones?

When the clutch is engaged you are driving down the road. Do you mean when the clutch is DISengaged?