Eagle

Your paint code should be on an ID plate under the hood, and also on an ID plate on the trailing edge of the driver's door. Any commercial auto paint store can custom mix the color if you give them the code.

You may need different rear shocks. I remember a few years ago trying to put a pair of stock Cherokee rear shocks on a stock 2WD Comanche and the shocks when fully extended were about 3/4 of an inch too short -- with the truck at rest, the shocks should have been at mid-travel.

The metric ton package had one more leaf in the rear, not longer leaves. I would expect an AAL to provide the same lift with a metric ton, or maybe less than on a standard suspension.

In-line sixes are tough, because the power pulses are perfectly evenly spaced. It can't really even begin to sound "good" unless you change to a lumpy cam with a high lift and short overlap. For a stock engine: Gibson. http://www.gibsonperformance.com/

I don't see any photo or link, but ... An '84 could not have a Peugeot tranny, because that was introduced in the 1987 model year with the 4.0L engine. And the Peugeot was a 5-speed manual, so it would not have had a column shift indicator anyway. The auto tranny in the '84 XJ was a Chrysler 3-speed, so the shift indicator won't have any provision for overdrive.

What are you going to run for brakes and hubs? The WJ has a different wheel bolt circle than the XJ and MJ.

Looks is minor. It's far too easy to blow the bead when the rim is as wide as the widest part of the tire. For example, I just looked up the specs on a Goodyear Wrangler "SilentArmor." For a 31x10.50-15 they recommend rims from 7.0" to 9.0" and they base their specs on the use of an 8.5" rim. Ditto for the Wrangler SR-A.

The factory never offered an MJ or XJ brush guard. Probably a dealer installed option. Yes, they did. My '87 MJ has one on it. But I don't have any pics.

What's the backspacing for the wheels, and what size tires do you plan to run?

This should sum it up. The following is from the manuscript of a book I started a few years ago. This material is copyrighted -- by me -- and by posting it here I am NOT releasing it into the public domain. Please respect my copyright by NOT copying this and distributing it in any way. (If you wish to print one copy to stick in your toolbox, that's okay.)

I've never seen one off of the truck, does this look right? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Valance-Low ... 021wt_1270 That's the right part ... except that's for a 1997 thru 2001 Cherokee. It won't fit an MJ. You need one for a 1984 thru 1996 Cherokee.

But it runs? So you need new rings and a valve job. As to what's involved with the newer engines: Your engine spans the 1987 through 1990 model years. In 1991 Chrysler brought out the HO version, with a different injection and ignition system. Part of the change involved the design of the head -- the ports were raised and the shape changed slightly. The lower end remained mostly unchanged. Your engine uses a knock sensor, which mounts on the lower left side of the block. The 1991 and newer engines do not use the knock sensor, but I believe the threaded boss to accept it remained on the block for several years. In 1999 the 4.0L head as used in the Grand Cherokee was changed to add a boss for mounting individual coil packs at the spark plugs. This revision didn't get to the Cherokee until 2000. If you don't want to rebuild your existing engine, IMHO the easiest route to follow would be a junkyard engine from a mid- to late-90s Jeep, take off the head, have your old head refurbished, and install your head on the "new" lower end.

I'm pretty sure it's welded. It isn't a "bolt" -- it's a stud.

Because on the old XJs and MJs that 20-minute job takes maybe 20 seconds. That's why.

We have NO idea how easy we have it with our MJs and older XJs. I was trying hard to convince myself the newer iron, with OBD-II for diagnostics, was better. It's not. I've been driving my wife's 2000 Cherokee while some work is pending on mine. Been noticing that the turn signal has been locking up -- sometimes it blinks, sometimes it lights up steady, and sometimes it blinks two or three times and then locks up. So, this afternoon I went to Auto Zone and bought a new flasher. Oh ... my ... Gawd. First, it takes a 5-prong combination flasher that costs $15. That's bad enough. But ... YOU HAVE TO DISASSEMBLE THE DASHBOARD TO REPLACE IT! The socket is up above the OBD-II port and driver's side footwell light. They could have pointed the socket down so you could just reach up and pull out the old flasher, but ... no. It's mounted horizontally, with the socket facing to where you can't reach it without removing the knee valance in front of the driver. Idjits. Whatever happened to "Let's design vehicles to be easier to work on"? Gotta keep my MJs running just as long as humanly possible.

You can use two breaker spaces for a feed to a sub-panel. Post a photo of your breaker panel ... with the door open.

Since the bushing are in several MM sizes, the best method may be to measure the sway bar with digital calipers. That's what I did and I got the correct size bushings with no problems. That'll work, but the sway bars are not made to a tolerance of .001 inch. I just use a set of open end wrenches. Find the one that just fits around a straight section of the bar. IIRC, there are three possible sizes.

Jasper is a rebuilder. They don't sell new. If the mechanic who has this thing is a client and you have a decent relationship, I would ask if you can take the tranny (and transfer case) on speculation, and pay for it if it checks out. Jeep changed from the BA10/5 to the AX-15 in the middle of the 1989 model run, so if this hulk says "Chrysler" on it, it is almost certainly an AX-15. It's easy to tell -- the BA10/5 case is split lengthwise into a left half and a right half. The AX-15 has a front section, a middle spacer, and a rear section. No split lengthwise. Remember the input spline count for the transfer case went from 21 splines to 23 splines wiuth the AX-15, so you will need the transfer case with the tranny. Your '87 transfer case won't work with an AX-15.

Cherokee parts from the front doors (A pillar) forward will work, but be aware that they don't ALL work. In this instance, the bumper will be fine regardless of year. But, for example, Jeep changed the design of the grille, headlight doors, and header panel in 1990. The 1990 and newer grille and headlight doors can be used on 1989 and older MJs (and XJs, for that matter) only if you also change the header panel to the new style.

The biggest issue is that the oil used with R12 is not compatible with the oil used in an R134a system. The usual recommendation if you want to do it really right is to replace the drier and drain the old oil out of the compressor. Then you simply recharge with R134a that has the correct oil in it. However ... the folks who make the conversion kits have some kind of special oil or oil additive that allows you to just evacuate the old R12, pull a vacuum, and recharge using their R134a with the special oil. A friend (retired Jeep service manager) tells me he has done at least fifty of these conversions and never had a problem. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... 13609_0_0_

He responded to mine. I'll call him on Monday.

This is a Jeep board. Why would you assume that ANYONE here might know the product code for some Toyota engine? "N/A" is the acronym for "Not Applicable" or "Not Available." How can a version that is not available come in anything? Sorry, but you're still not making a lot of sense here ...

:agree:

Are you really talking about a skid plate (steel), or are you talking about the gravel shield (rubber/plastic)?

Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to follow up and see if he still has it.