Eagle

Something looks screwy about that wiring diagram, but I don't have my FSM handy to refer to. Just doesn't look quite right. Anyhoo -- does the fan run with the speed switch in the HIGH position? That position bypasses the resistors, so it should run on HIGH even if it won't run on low or medium speed. If it does, look to replace the resistor pack.

Are you sure your pins are 5/16"? XJs had 5/16" center pins. My recollection is that MJ factory springs used 3/8".

Alexia's photo shows an XJ proportioning valve. Pete's photo, in the second post in this thread, shows an MJ metering block. Take your pick. Personally, knowing that the purpose of the XJ proportioning valve is to ensure that the rear brakes don't do anything until you hit panic stop pressure, which will then result in the rears locking up before the fronts and the back end of the truck suddenly preceding the front down the road, I think putting an XJ valve into an MJ is a VERY bad idea. But ... I'm an olde pharte, and I prefer to have brakes that work all the time, not just when some dweeb engineer who probably never drove a Jeep or a truck in his life thinks they should work.

Agreed -- cut it off. Although I've had good luck clamping the round head in a pair of Vise-Grips. It helps to clamp the leaves together on both sides of the pin with C-clamps to take the load off the nut.

The difference in the ohm range is insignificant, IMHO. Factory fuel gauges aren't all that accurate, anyway. The real problem is the change in polarity. The '91 and '92 are 105 ohms for empty, where the early years were zero ohms empty and 88 ohms full. Obviously, a mismatch between the sender and the gauge will cause the gauge to read backward (as well as to be slightly [more]inaccurate). One solution would be to go to the hydra plug where all the wires plug onto the gauge cluster. Identity the two wires that are for the fuel gauge. If you can pull those wires out, just do so and reverse them. If you can't remove the push-in connectors, clip the wires and splice to the opposite stubs.

Nope. Same is same. Same is not different.

The HVAC system has a bunch of flappers in the ducts behind/under the dash, and they are all controlled by vacuum. Pay close attention to where each vacuum line runs and what it connects to. I suggest using pieces of masking tape, and marke each side (the tube and the fitting) for each connection with a letter code (A-A, B-B, C-C, etc.) to keep it all straight. While it's open, check the vacuum hoses for cracks and splits. And while the dash is out I strongly recommend replacing the heater core (and a/c coil, if you have a/c). If you don't, WHEN (not if) they fail you'll be removing the dash again to replace it/them.

The early 4-bangers came two ways: Either with a single serpentine belt, or with multiple vee belts. Which type does your engine have? I believe you MUST stick with that, because my understanding is that the vee belt set-up has a water pump that rotates in the "normal" direction, where the serpentine belt set-up has a water pump with "reverse" rotation (same as the 4.0L). CONFIRMED: Just checked the parts manual. The water pump has a different part number depending on whether it has a serpentine belt or does not have a serpentine belt. You can change from one to the other but, in addition to the water pump itself, you'll also be looking at changing the crankshaft pulley, the alternator pulley, the a/c or idler pulley (if you have one), and the fan pulley.

The early ones were 0 to 88 ohms. Going from memory, the later ones were something like 4 or 8 ohms to about 108.

Stock height or lifted? I put '94 YJ hoses on my SWB '88 MJ when it was lifted 4 inches. They were (and are) fine after I put it back to stock height.

That's my understanding. The 3.1 or 3.4 has to be from a rear-wheel drive model.

Oh, yeah. Definitely not worth losing sleep over. I still maintain that zero toe-in is what we strive for. The least rolling resistance and the least tire wear will obviously occur when the tires roll straight when going down the road. So ... why do we set some initial toe-in? Because of the "slop" in the steering components. Each tie rod and has a small bit of slop built into it, and that gets progressively worse as the miles add up. If the front end is aligned with all the tie rod ends at "mid-travel," once you start to drive down the road the rolling resistance of the tires on the pavement will tend to push against the TREs, taking out all that slop. If the setting was zero toe-in at rest, then the result will be toe-OUT under dynamic driving conditions. In the "good old days," the better alignment shops used to put a spring-loaded spreader bar between the front tires when the vehicle was on the alignment rack, to force the fronts of the tires apart and take out all that slop. They could then adjust the toe-in to between zero and 1/16th, and you'd have a top shelf alignment job. I don't have an alignment rack or turntables. I have a gravel driveway. I drive forward into my working position, measure, and make an initial adjustment. Doing so causes the sidewalls to bend while the tread contact patch wants to not move. To allow for that, I back up several car lengths, then pull forward to the same position again, which relieves the sidewall twist and (hopefully) gets the tie rod ends loaded as they would be when driving. Then I check my measurement, and adjust again if I don't have it right. Rinse and repeat as many times as necessary. My goal is zero, but I stop fussin' if I get to about 1/16 toe-IN. Toe-OUT is unacceptable, and I wouldn't be happy with 1/8 or more of toe-in. But ... that's just me, I guess.

What's it work out to with a 31" tire Eagle? I set my toe at 1/8". 9/64

Holy moly! 3-5/8" backspacing, and an 8" rim? You're going to have a LOT of rubbing with that setup. The inner rim/bead is going to be an inch and a half farther outboard than stock rims, and then add another inch of wheel width and suddenly your tires are going to sit two and a half inches farther out than stock. You won't rub the control arms, but I'll almost bet you'll be hitting the flares when you [try to] turn, and the tires will whack the flares when the suspension compresses.

I stand corrected. According to the 2000 XJ service manual, the "preferred" toe-in is 0.25 degrees (they no longer specify it in inches). I got curious and plotted that with my AutoCAD software. To my great surprise, that works out graphically to ... 1/8" for a 29" tire.. All I can say is that my 2001 XJ measured 1/8" toe-in after replacing some tie rod ends, and the steering was rather squirrelly. I set it as close to zero as I could (maybe 1/32 toed in -- you don't want toe-OUT), and things are much better. It's been like that for almost 10,000 miles and the tires are wearing evenly.

You have to mount the XJ seats on the MJ pedestals, because the floor pan configuration of the XJ is different from the XJ. If the XJ seats have the "rocking chair" feature, they will be too high in an MJ unless you remove the rocking chair part of the mechanism.

The toe-in (not "tow" in) angle should zero, not 1/8". That's far too much toe-in and will destroy your tires quickly. Correct. More specifically, the pinion should be parallel to the driveshaft. Since the double cardan uses up some space, the pinion should actually point slightly above the transfer case output, but pointing at it is pretty close. However, the pinion angle is changed any time you adjust caster, and the caster angle changes any time you muck with the pinion angle, so dialing in a lifted truck is always a compromise.

Or put a box-end wrench on the nut and use a pipe wrench on the shock dust cover to unsrew the stud from the nut. When replacing, put some anti-sieze on the threads and you can turn the shock tight enough by hand to compress the bushings properly.

??? Four forward plus overdrive = five speed. The early XJ/MJ AX4 4-speed did not have overdive.

Clunks are "usually" (dangerous generalization) control arm related. For the death wobble -- have the tires balanced (again). Or try just rotating front to rear, rear to front and see if anything changes. If so, then you know it's a tire balance issue.

90 is exactly the same as 87. There is no lock between driveshaft except with the lever in one of the 4wd modes. I don't feel like typing out the whole procedure from the owner's manual, but it is not necessary to keep the engine OFF. Yes, it is necessary. The Neutral position in the early 231 transfer cases disconnects the transfer case from the input shaft (the transmission, in other words) but it leaves the front and rear driveshafts locked together. If the engine is running when you shift, the front axle disconnect will engage and you will then be trying to tow a vehicle locked in part-time 4WD -- which is not conducive to directional control. We went through this same argument a year or two ago. I remember going out and jacking up my '88 to verify it.

I don't know why you think the OEM track bar is a "problem." The original on my '88 Cherokee lasted about 180,000 miles, and that included off-roading at Paragon, the New Jersey Pine Barrens, the Mohawk Trail region of western Massachusetts (Old Florida Road), and hitting some fire roads in New Mexico. On the MJ, I went with an adjustable to be able to center the axle with a 4-inch lift, but the quality of the bar wasn't any better than OEM. (In fact, it was significantly worse.) For a 2WD Mj that's going to be street driven, I don't think any track bar out there can really be considered an "upgrade."

No.l What factory hitch do you have? The only hitch I know of that came from the factory on MJs was the hitch bumper, and that's not nearly strong enough to be towing a 3500 pound car on a trailer that's going to add another 1500 to 2000 pounds.

They are both Renix throttle body systems, so even if there are some differences, overall the swap should work.

Factory spec for the BA10/5 is SAE 75W90, GL-5.