Eagle

210 is normal if your gauge is reading somewhat accurately. Running cooler in rain is a clue. The thermostat is there to keep temps UP, not down, so when the temp starts going higher than the thermostat rating it indicates a problem. The fact that your radiator can shed heat better in rain than in dry air strongly suggests that your radiator is not up to the job.

They had 60/40, no problem there. They didn't have 50/50. My real concern was that the kid couldn't tell me the melting temperatures. The lower temp fuse I found is only rated for 128* C and I would prefer not to blow it while soldering it in place. Guess I'll just have to make liberal use of heat sinks.

But the actual resistors in my resistor pack are fine. I'd much rather spend two bucks and a few minutes with a soldering gun to repair the old one, if possible.

Radio Shack ain't what it used to be. Stopped by a local Radio Shack store that happens to be very near the Lowe's I had to go to anyway. Kid in a red shirt led me to a bunch of drawers labeled "Fuses," and proceeded to pull out one envelope after another of glass, cartridge fuses -- after I had given him the part numbers I was after and pointed at one that was the same type and said, 'They'll look like this, but with different temperature ratings." Finally found the higher rated one (the part number from Hornblod's post), but couldn't find the one rated close to the Jeep spec. I did find one that's rated even lower, so I took the ONE fuse they had in that rating and I think I'll try that one first. Then I went looking for rosin-core solder. They had 60/40, they the old triple-component solder in whatever proportion that comes in, and they had "lead free" solder. I asked the kid what the melting temperature is on the different types. He didn't know. In fact, he couldn't even pronounce "solder." I asked him what's in the lead-free solder, since traditionally solder is a lead+something alloy. He didn't know. Sheesh. But I'll bet he can tell me everything about an iPhone 5 ...

Why do you think you need lower gears?

I find it interesting that the '88 FSM gives the actual temperature rating for the thermal fuse, and the 2000 FSM doesn't even mention it. In fact, looking at THREE wiring diagrams where the resistor pack is shown, the thermal fuse itself isn't shown and there's no indication of how it works. The factory clearly doesn't want anybody fooling around, trying to repair one of these resistor packs instead of just buying a new one.

Of course there's a cable. Not a "wire" -- a rotating spring cable inside a non-rotating sleeve. How else do you think the speed information gets from the drive gear in the transfer case to the speedometer in the dashboard?

Harbor Freight Tools has a couple of breaks -- not too expensive.

Pretty sure these flaps are the way they are supposed to be. They look like true Comanche flaps have to go out to the garage and compare to mine. GirsMJ are yours listed for the Comanche or Cherokee? Don't think so. My '88 XJ came with mud flaps from the factory, and both front and rear had metal attaching brackets as shown in the photos provided by GirsMJ86 and Sinkrun. Also, they were taller than the ones you have. Yours appear to have been cut down in height and attached directly, with no hardware.

You won't find the thermal fuse at a Jeep dealer. The resistor pack is not serviceable -- replace only. Looks like Radio Shack has one rated at 140 degrees C (288 degrees F). That's maybe close enough, and will allow me to use regular electronic solder. Looks like I'll be visiting my local radio Shack tomorrow. Thanks, Gents. This is what I hate about modern society. Rather than replace a $2.00 fuse, they want you to replace the entire resistor pack -- for $75.00. Unfortunately, at today's labor rates it's probably cheaper for a shop customer to do it that way rather than pay a technician to repair the original resistor pack and then replace it, but it's tough on us do-it-yourselfers who aren't paying for labor, only for the parts.

How did you determine the temperature rating? For two bucks, I'll give it a try but there's a big difference between 148 degrees C and 228 degrees C. The higher temp rating would require a different solder than what's normally used in electronics.

I know why it blew -- I covered that. Mice built a nest in the blower, as well as stuffing nest material around the thermal fuse. Yes, the heater will work -- on high speed only. I want to be able to use al speeds. I have cleaned out the blower and replaced the resistor pack, but I'd like to repair the old one to keep around as a spare. I have three new-style XJs (two 2000s and one 2001), so the odds are that I may need another one some day.

Ah. Good find -- the ones that mount to the sides of the frame rails (the right way) are rare. That might work with the Westin/Fey bumper brackets -- they mount to the same three holes. I think the hitch should go on first, then the bumper brackets, because IIRC they have the edges bent out at 90 degrees for stiffess, so I don't think you could mount them first.

I just had to replace the blower resistor pack in my 2000 XJ ... AGAIN! Mice keep building nests in the blower box, the nest material insulates the resistor pack, and it blows. The resistors themselves are (or seem to be) fine. There's also a very small "thingie" in there that looks more like a capacitor (but probably isn't -- this isn't my area of expertise). It must act as a thermal fuse. The new unit has continuity across this "thingie" -- the blown one does not. The resistor pack costs $74.00. I've got to think that it should be possible to make a bench repair and replace this fuse thing for a lot less than that. Does anyone on this forum have the electronics expertise to figure out what this is and what to use to replace it? If there's a volunteer, I can send you the blown resistor unit for you to examine first-hand. I'm tempted to jumper it and see if that would work, but it has to be there for a reason, so perhaps that's not a good idea. Thoughts?

You don't have it yet. How do you know it fits "really well" (or at all) with the stock bumper?

Both those links are for the same bumper. Be advised it's a bumper ONLY. I t doesn't work with the factory brackets, Westin (Fey) has their own brackets. The bumper is a universal fit, then you buy the brackets that are specific to your truck. I don't know what your hitch is, but I have a class 3 hitch (can't remember the name at the moment) that the Westin/Fey bumper will NOT work with.

Want to bet? Here's the description from that link: You are not going to get all those bushings (several of which don't even exist on an MJ) for $47. The price says "per pair," and the photo shows four bolts and four pairs of bushing halves. The kit shown is for the lower control arms -- only. Also keep in mind that Daystar makes polyurethane products. Poly bushings are harder than factory rubber, resulting in a harsher ride and more noise. Polyurethane also tends to squeak -- which is why they make the bolts greasable.

No, no, NO! SpiderTrax spacers are machined out of billet aluminum. They are as strong as alloy wheels, or stronger. Cheap spacers may be cast, and they don't hold up. If you choose to run spacers, keep in mind that the spacers will be the ONLY thing between your vehicle and the wheels. If a spacer fails on the highway, you will definitely have a very bad day. This is NOT the place to cheap out.

Read the description under that kit. Old bushing need to be pressed out or burned out. The new bushings have to be pressed in. The control arms are stamped sheet metal. You need a shop press and spacers of the correct thickness to prevent smashing the control arms when doing the replacement. It's not much more expensive and it's a LOT easier to just buy complete control arms with the bushings already installed. The exception is the axle and on the upper control arms. Those are in the axle, not the arm, and you will need to find a way to press those out and in.

It's new? Why not see if you can return it. If not, put it on the classifieds here. It's probably for a Renix 4.0L, and there's plenty of us who own those.

Not normal for coolant to bubble out, but also not normal to overfill the bottle. There's a tube that connects the bottle to the radiator filler neck. There only needs to be enough coolant in the bottle when cold to cover the inlet from that tube to the bottle. If you fill it 2/3 full when cold, then I would expect it to burp at you.

Photo would help. What engine do you have, 2.5-liter 4-cylinder or 2.8-liter V-6? Are you by any chance filling the coolant bottle when it's cold? If so, that would explain it. Coolant expands when it gets hot. On the "open" systems, when the coolant expands it gets forced out through the radiator cap and captured in the overflow bottle. The radiator car has a check valve built into it that allows this coolant to be sucked back into the radiator as the system cools off. You don't need much coolant at all in the bottle when cold. Fill it not more than 1/3 full. If you fill it all the way, then the coolant from the radiator has no place to go when it expands, so it'll force coolant out of the recovery bottle.

Don't get confused. An '86 doesn't use the "closed" system with the pressurized bottle. Your plastic bottle is a conventional overflow recovery bottle, and you can use anything -- even an old milk jug in a pinch.

It isn't hard to add a ground. Take a length of wire, wrap it around the brass fitting, and clamp it solidly. (Or, better yet, solder it.) Connect the other end to any available bolt on the engine or frame -- just make sure you get a clean connection.

Junkyard time ...