Eagle

I can't find it on-line, but in their printed catalogs JC Whiney used to offer two versions of those. One was for cars, and extended (I think) 2-1/2 inches (about 60mm). The other was for trucks and buses and extended (again, if I remember correctly) 3-1/2 or 4 inches (around 80 to 90mm). It was available either as pre-cut lengths, or in a roll. If you can't find it, let me know. I may have a virgin roll of it tucked away in the basement.

Money isn't as much an issue as it is just me trying to save where possible. I do realize what's required for a lift, but I'm planning on using the junkyard to my advantage. Y'know, beefier zj coils with spacers and control arms, bastard pack, ome shocks, etc. I know I can run 31s with stock height, but I'd like a bit of flex, with a sway bar disconnect. What do you think? ZJ V8 coils are the same springs as late XJ Up Country coils -- they give you 1-inch of lift over stock. To get to 4-1/2" you'll need the ZJ coils plus two 1-3/4" spacers on each side. The spacers alone cost $40/pair, so you're talking $80 plus the cost of junkyard spring to do a kludge of a lift. ZJ control arms are exactly the same as XJ control arms. The better arms are WJ, but they're still the same length, so they won't correct the steering/suspension geometry issues created by a 4-1/2" lift. The best way to save money on a lift is not to lift any more than you NEED to. If you run 31x10.50s on OEM Jeep rims, they tuck inside the wheel wells just fine and the only way you can increase articulation is to remove the bump stops. I don't think you've thought this out very well.

Universal flare extensions from JC Whitney? http://www.jcwhitney.com/pacer-fender-flares/p3064973.jcwx?filterid=c13049u0j2

Your MJ is already capable off-road, and you can run 31x10.50s with NO lift. Think hard about why you think you need a 4-1/2 inch lift. Especially as it seems money IS an object. To go to 4-1/2" you're looking at some serious money. You'll need springs, adjustable track bar, adjustable control arms, and possibly drop brackets if it's going to be a daily driver. And new shocks, all around.

Trying to decide what route to take to bring a 2001 XJ up to where it should sit. New front coils are Up Country (bought new from dealership) and the front sits at exactly 18". So far ... so good. The rear sits at 16" ... which is a full inch below where it should be. Everything is so rusted underneath that I don't want to risk breaking a weld nut loose, so rather than swap the rear springs entirely, I'm looking at doing a bastard pack. I have leaf springs around here from YJ Wranglers, XJs, and MJ. I'm trying to decide between adding one leaf (making it a 5-leaf spring) or two leaves (making a 6-leaf spring). I found a decent on-line spring rate calculator, but I need better input. Curb weight for an XJ is around 3350 to 3400 pounds. Does anyone know how that's distributed, front to rear? For front engine, rear wheel vehicles I typically assume it's about 60% front and 40% rear, but I wouldn't mind more accurate figures if anyone has them. What's the length of the XJ rear springs, eye-to-eye?

Jeep didn't make any changes to the chassis when they beefed up the springs to offer the Metric Tonne package. The Metric Tonne MJs have a load capacity of 2200 pounds -- that's a full one ton capacity (hence the name -- a metric ton is 1000 kilograms, or 2200 pounds) in a compact pickup. I don't think we have to worry about the MJ's ability to carry loads. Sounds to me like you need new shocks.

A number of members here have run bastard packs. I've used them in pony cars set up for road racing and in XJs, but I haven't done an MJ ... yet. How much lift do you want, and how stiff a ride are you willing to tolerate? There comes a point where the springs no longer act like springs. Example: A (very) long time ago, I was an active member of the Hudson-Essex-Terraplane Club. Not many people are aware that, until 1947, Hudson made pickups as well as automobiles. At one time I owned three. Two had standard leaf springs in the rear -- with probably five or six leaves (going from memory). The best one, a 1947, had springs that were at least twice as many leaves as the others. It was all factory -- the springs were assembled the same way, and there was no indication they had ever been out of the truck or tinkered with. It was just a one-ton rather than a half ton. There were no rear shock absorbers in it when I bought it, and it didn't need any. My brother and I were not small guys. We could both climb into the bed and jump up and down, and it just didn't move. Not an inch. Not even a half an inch. On my road race Javelin, I think I ended up with a six-leaf spring. Ride was firm but not uncomfortable, and with truck shocks both the ride and handling were fantastic. Have you tried using search yet? I would think if you search this site for "bastard pack" you should get some hits.

pop the hose off, trim accordingly for new location, rehook Vacuum hoses, start motor. Done. It's a vaccum canister with a check valve in the vaccum line, it simply stores a vaccum that the engine itself creates. Good description of the system, but when you conclude that the evaporative emissions systems "stores a vacuum" you are off the mark. Since the purpose of the canister is to store gasoline vapors that evaporate off the fuel in the gas tank, it is connected to the tank, which is in turn vented to the atmosphere via a check valve (usually in the gas tank cap) that allows air in but doesn't allow vapors out. If there was vacuum in the fuel tank it would likely crush inwards (the canister might crush, too). Thus, the fuel tank and the cannister connected to it remain at atmospheric pressure, whether the engine is running or not. . The purpose of the check valve you mention is not to store vacuum, but rather for safety (by the way, it isn't really a "check valve" that operates only one way - it is an electrically-operated servo valve that opens upon receiving voltage from a running engine). It prevents the charcoal canister (yes, the canister contains fine charcoal - providing about 5 acres of surface area to bind and safely store gasoline vapor) from overflowing and passing explosive vapor to the manifold of a non-running engine, where otherwise on a hot day it might accumulate sufficiently to overflow from the manifold and air cleaner and into the engine compartment... whence upon engine startup, a stray spark might cause an underhood explosion. The other reason for the servo valve is to cut egress of leaking fuel in the event of a rollover accident. . Sorry for the highjack, but I was a homologation engineer. My only intention here is to provide clarity. Good intentions, but all you accomplished was to introduce confusion. The vacuum canister being discussed here is the vacuum reservoir located behind the front bumper, NOT the charcoal fumes canister back by the firewall. The canister in question DOES store vacuum -- that is its only purpose. Without it -- or if it leaks or the lines to it leak -- any time you go up a steep-ish hill the drop in engine vacuum closes the ventilator doors and shifts all heat or a/c output to the defrost outlets on the top of the dashboard.

Them winders don't grow on trees, Mate. That "weather stripping" is nothing but trim, the window is held in and sealed by adhesive. Worst case, after installing the slider and letting the sealant cure, another bead could be applied with a slightly convex profile to simulate a trim gasket. The latch isn't a huge deal, either -- I don't think I've ever seen one that had a latch.

i've tried wigglin every wire and nothin changed, the only thing i can not check is the antanna wire, i can't get enough slack in it to track it through my wirey mess under my dash, is there anyway to test is with a multimeter? Redwolf Time out. You wrote above that it cuts out when you take off. Does it only cut out when on radio, or does it also cut out when playing a CD? I seriously doubt it's the antenna. You can usually pick up strong, nearby stations with NO antenna, and if you lose the signal you should get hiss, or "hash." I'm leaning toward a bad ground of the radio chassis to the dashboard.

When I was crewing on short-track stock cars, several drivers ran in the 'Sportsman's" class with in-line sixes. The only engines we ever saw in that class were the AMC I-6 and a GM I-6 truck engine (and my friend's Hudson Hornet). The ONLY street-derived I-6 to have ever been run in the Indianapolis 500 was Barney Navarro's AMC-powered car. The Mopar slant six was a good engine, but IMHO anyone who claims it was in any way superior to the AMC I-6 is on some kind of mind-altering chemical substance.

Based on another thread currently running -- grab the parking brake peddle assembly, too. Might as well grab the ECU if it's not already gone.

Buy it cheap, take it to a good local welder shop, tell him to use it as a pattern and make one just like it.

1/16 is 1/16. But it should be toe-IN, not toe-out. You probably don't want to know how many thousands of miles I've driven on a tape measure toe-in alignment.

It's not a poor design. Reducing the amount of braking force on the rear wheels when the weight shifts OFF the rear wheels is the best way to avoid spin-outs. It is, in fact, not just a good thing but a VERY good thing. A number of other small and midsize pickups also use similar proportioning valves. Chrysler killed the Comanche because the Comanche was a better truck that could do everything the Dakota could do, in a smaller package. Chrysler didn't want to have the Comanche competing against the Dakota and they weren't about to kill the Dakota ... so they killed the Comanche.

6,000 pounds is a tow strap, not a recovery strap. A 2" x 20' recovery strap is rated at 20,000 pounds. A 3" recovery strap is rated for 30,000 pounds.

Everything is fixed? The parking brake fixed itself since you posted this morning that it releases itself? You've popped the cover off the differential and changed the gear lube? You've drained the transmission and replaced the lubricant in that? You've flushed the cooling system and put in new anti-freeze? You've inspected the rubber flex hoses in the braking system to see if they're cracked? You have a 25-year old vehicle. You can't just hop into a 25-year old vehicle and drive it as if it were a new car you just drove off the dealer's lot.

Or it could mean that the mechanism needs to be cleaned and lubricated.

Another vote for a second strap. Keep in mind that there is a difference between "recovery" and "towing." Recovery often (usually) involves applying hard, jerking forces -- the rescue vehicle takes a running start, which applies a dynamic force to the recovery gear when the slack is taken up. That's why we use only nylon straps -- they are slightly elastic, so they stretch just a bit under that dynamic load. Then they want to recover the amount they stretched, and that helps to yank the stuck vehicle forward. For the same reason, we DON'T prefer to use recovery straps for towing. You DON'T want a tow line to stretch. Chain is good for towing because it doesn't stretch. Chain is also a LOT heavier than a 2" or even 3" strap, and takes up a lot more space. Add a shackle to a receiver hitch? Simple: http://www.discountjeepparts.com/product_info.php/products_id/433

Grab the headliner anyway. If the backer board is in good shape, it can always be recovered. JoAnne Fabrics stores sell headliner meaterial. So does Pep Boy', but the material at JoAnne Fabrics is better quality. Even if you break off the studs on the flare backer plates, they can be drilled out and new studs installed. The rear flares ONLY fit the MJ, so any time you can get a pair ... get 'em.

The only hitch from a junkyard that will fit an MJ will be off an MJ. Anything else will have to be modified. With all due respect, you have more important things to be fixing on your MJ before you start worrying about a tow hitch. As the teacher said to Cain in that old TV series ("Kung Fu") about the Chinese martial arts guy, "Make haste slowly, Grasshopper."

I don't know how difficult it is because I've never dared attempt it. That truck looks almost too nice to be in a scrap yard. You should also grab the rear flares (and backing strips) and the taillights. How's the tailgate?

Nope. You are correct. And, aside from the fact that the lower control arms limit how far the front wheels can turn, the steering stops are set pretty much at the same point as the internal limits on the steering box. If you can't make the front wheels turn any sharper, the only option is to shorten the wheelbase.

After searching around for photos of Eliminators, it appears they didn't use the same wheels in all years. Looks like some of them did have the faux beadlock rivets.

that is just the part number for the diff cover, nothing to do with gear ratio. now that you've posted a picture ... go look at your axle again. See that little metal flap on the upper lefthand bolt? spray that with WD40 and get yer fingers dirty, rub it in and clear the rust and grime ... some numbers and letters will appear. Post those and we can tell you the gear ratio. Now that you mention that little flap -- notice that it has two holes in it. From the factory, both holes had a cover bolt through them. Someone has had the cover off your differential at least once. It's probably a small miracle that they bothered to put the tag back at all.