Eagle

You want the 195. They are correct that 195 is the OEM rating.

Could be. Still not the Eliminator rim.

The 10-hole Eliminator rims didn't have "rivets."

You need ONE turbine rim? I have one I'll send you if you pay the shipping. It came on one of the XJs or MJs I picked up, and had been painted, and then painted again over the paint. As an experiment, I had a guy remove the paint using baking soda blasting. The aluminum is now pristine, but slightly "frosty." What it needs to look near perfect is a bit of time with some VERY FINE emery cloth or wet/dry sandpaper, polishing the faces of the spokes and the outer flat at the wheel weight rim. Hit me with a PM if you're interested.

So you have about 3" of lift, which should settle down to around 2". That's right where you want to be with 2" lift springs in the front. I wouldn't change anything until you see how the new rear springs settle in.

Note the key part of what Don wrote. MJs are supposed to have some rake from the factory. Yours looks very obvious because of the tires. What size are they? Several years ago, I did a home-brew add-a-leaf on an '88 XJ for an ex-GF. The height from the hub center to the flare in the rear of an MJ is supposed to be 17" even. Before starting, hers measured 16-1/2". I used cut-off main leaves from another XJ pack. If everything is fresh, that usually generates an inch and a half of lift. In her case, it went up 1-1/4" from what is was before I started, but where I started was sagged. So I netted 3/4" of lift ... which was perfect for that vehicle. I have a 2001 XJ in the driveway right now that looks low in the back. I kept telling myself it looked a bit low because I put new Up Country springs in the front, but today I measured. YIKES! 16" even, on both sides. That means even if I do an extra main leaf on each side, I won't even be able to get the 1" that Up Country provides -- the BEST I can hope for will be 1/2" higher than stock. (Unless I add two leaves -- or just replace the springs.) What we're saying is, if your old springs were sagged, a new spring that brings it back to a bit above the factory stock height may look like a big lift ... but it isn't. Take those measurements from the axle tubes, and that's going to be a miuch more accurate gauge of how much lift you actually got. Don, thanks for finding that old post. I remembered posting those dimensions previously, but I wouldn't have known where to look for them.

Looks like 23-3/4" to me, and that's NOT a 4" to 4-1/2" lift. IIRC, stock is about 21-1/2. To be double-extra certain, measure from the top of the axle tube straight up to the bottom of the frame rail where the bump stop is located. Post that measurement, and I'll look up the factory spec in the FSM.

I have those moldings on my '88 XJ, which I bought new in 1988. I GUARANTEE that they do NOTHING to protect your doors from other people's carelessness. They do, however, trap dirt and moisture. Leave 'em off.

Yes, definitely original.

I don't know, but considering that the distance between the frame rails is different on the MJ and the XJ, I doubt very much that it could possibly be as easy as you seem to think it would be.

No ... unless you plan on modifying the hitch extensively. The Cherokee hitch mounts to the underside of the "frame" rails, using strips with the nuts welded to them that get inserted into the frame. The MJ hitch mounts to the sides of the frame rails, using the same mounting holes and bolts as the bumper brackets.

ALL the aftermarket rear windows I've seen around here have fitted like photos number 1 and 3 in Jim Oshel's post #28 -- with the window sitting conspicuously "proud" of the rear wall of the cab. That's simply not acceptable to me -- I'd rather not have a slider if that's the way they fit.

Apparently you're missing RochesterMJ's description of how his fit:

No. The line from the "nose" goes to the rear axle flex hose, the outlet on the bottom of the front distribution block gets plugged.

Nope -- too far away. Based on RochesterMJ's description, I couldn't live with the CRL unit. The rear window is supposed to sit IN the opening and be flush with the surface of the cab. Gluing it ONto the outside is not acceptable (to me). I'd rather not have a slider than have to live with a kludge like that.

Get the bed off and check both the frame and the cab unibody carefully before you spend anything on it. I'm with the group that says it's not going to be repaired. If you collect anything for it, you'll spend that and more just getting the frame and unibody straightened -- there won't be any left over for a lift.

Can you get a couple of close-ups from approximately the same perspective as your second photo?

88whitemanche -- Do you have any photos without all the tape hiding the fit of the window frame to the body opening? That's exactly what we should be concerned about. The point of view of your photo is perfect, but the tape hides what we want to see. Then a close-up of the upper and lower corners would be great.

My apologies Snidely. :yes: Sincerely, Dudley Do-Right Give my regards to Nell.

Curses ... foiled again.

Can you post some photos, taken from off to one side of the cab at maybe about 30 degrees from the line of the rear wall (and window)? I see MJs around here with aftermarket sliders, and the frames always sit proud of the cab surface. If this unit uses flat glass (does it?), then I don't see any way it can be installed to sit flush with the cab, because the cab surface is curved.

Slow turning over when hot is a sign of an imminent failure. Hot wires have more resistance than cold wires. The inside of a starter has a LOT of wires on the rotating core.

Regardless of what they claim, it is NOT an OEM replacement and I would like to see clear, detailed photos of one installed in an MJ before ordering. This unit has flat glass. The MJ glass is curved. They say (and the photos show) that this unit has an aluminum frame. The OEM slider does NOT have a full frame. It has aluminum strips across the top and bottom, but the two side edges are exposed glass. This may be an okay substitute/alternate for the OEM slider, but do not expect it to look like the factory window. It can't and won't.

The solenoid is just a relay -- an on/off switch. It can't cause the starter to spin slowly. I suggest taking the starter to one of the parts houses and having it bench tested. Sounds to me like it's getting ready to die.

He also said he is not looking for extended tire coverage.