Eagle

No ... unless you plan on modifying the hitch extensively. The Cherokee hitch mounts to the underside of the "frame" rails, using strips with the nuts welded to them that get inserted into the frame. The MJ hitch mounts to the sides of the frame rails, using the same mounting holes and bolts as the bumper brackets.

ALL the aftermarket rear windows I've seen around here have fitted like photos number 1 and 3 in Jim Oshel's post #28 -- with the window sitting conspicuously "proud" of the rear wall of the cab. That's simply not acceptable to me -- I'd rather not have a slider if that's the way they fit.

Apparently you're missing RochesterMJ's description of how his fit:

No. The line from the "nose" goes to the rear axle flex hose, the outlet on the bottom of the front distribution block gets plugged.

Nope -- too far away. Based on RochesterMJ's description, I couldn't live with the CRL unit. The rear window is supposed to sit IN the opening and be flush with the surface of the cab. Gluing it ONto the outside is not acceptable (to me). I'd rather not have a slider than have to live with a kludge like that.

Get the bed off and check both the frame and the cab unibody carefully before you spend anything on it. I'm with the group that says it's not going to be repaired. If you collect anything for it, you'll spend that and more just getting the frame and unibody straightened -- there won't be any left over for a lift.

Can you get a couple of close-ups from approximately the same perspective as your second photo?

88whitemanche -- Do you have any photos without all the tape hiding the fit of the window frame to the body opening? That's exactly what we should be concerned about. The point of view of your photo is perfect, but the tape hides what we want to see. Then a close-up of the upper and lower corners would be great.

My apologies Snidely. :yes: Sincerely, Dudley Do-Right Give my regards to Nell.

Curses ... foiled again.

Can you post some photos, taken from off to one side of the cab at maybe about 30 degrees from the line of the rear wall (and window)? I see MJs around here with aftermarket sliders, and the frames always sit proud of the cab surface. If this unit uses flat glass (does it?), then I don't see any way it can be installed to sit flush with the cab, because the cab surface is curved.

Slow turning over when hot is a sign of an imminent failure. Hot wires have more resistance than cold wires. The inside of a starter has a LOT of wires on the rotating core.

Regardless of what they claim, it is NOT an OEM replacement and I would like to see clear, detailed photos of one installed in an MJ before ordering. This unit has flat glass. The MJ glass is curved. They say (and the photos show) that this unit has an aluminum frame. The OEM slider does NOT have a full frame. It has aluminum strips across the top and bottom, but the two side edges are exposed glass. This may be an okay substitute/alternate for the OEM slider, but do not expect it to look like the factory window. It can't and won't.

The solenoid is just a relay -- an on/off switch. It can't cause the starter to spin slowly. I suggest taking the starter to one of the parts houses and having it bench tested. Sounds to me like it's getting ready to die.

He also said he is not looking for extended tire coverage.

Yes, they should be the same.

No, they are not. Not even almost close.

Fey also has bumpers that are a newer style, suitable for an S10 or Ranger. I think those would fit, using the same mounting brackets that Fey sells to mount the diamond plate bumper to an MJ. However, I haven't actually tried this.

If you plan to tow a trailer, then use the heavier gear lube indicated for the purpose. If you don't plan to tow, there's no need. However, it never hurts to use the heavier-duty stuff.

Trailer wiring does not indicate a limited slip. The part number stamped on the outside of the axle is not a good indicator of what gears are inside.

Read the thread title. He's swapping this new engine into an '86.

That there is what we call a "clue." :doh:

Good luck on that. If AMC Jeep could have gotten adequate cooling without redesigning and retooling the entire front end, they would have done so.

Limited slip was an option from the factory in the Dana 35 as well as in the AMC Model 20.

CRM1988, your question was about rubbing on the inner fender liners. The answer remains: 31x10.50-15. Those will not rub on the inner fender liners. They WILL rub slightly on the lower control arms -- so will 30x9.50s, probably, but less so. The solution is to use WJ lower control arms. If you don't want any rubbing anywhere, and you don't want to change anything -- then the answer is 235/75-15s.