Eagle

No ... and no ... and no. You don't "crack" any lines anywhere. http://comancheclub.com/topic/40428-brake-bleeding/ To add to those instructions: If the brake warning light does NOT come on, you're not getting it right. The second line to the rear is a fail-safe line that sees brake fluid/pressure ONLY if the front circuit fails, and the shuttle valve that triggers the warning like slides off center to open the bypass port. No light ==> no bypass. Opening the front bleeder simulates a front brake failure.

There is no adjustment for discs. Did you follow the factory procedure for bleeding the rear circuit?

BAD idea. You're replacing one 20+ year old part with another 20+ year old part that's going to be just as bad. There's a replacement socket, with pigtails, that's in the HELP! aisle at most of the auto parts chains that's a perfect fit. It's not listed for Jeeps, it's listed for some Ford vehicle or other, but it works perfectly. Just take in your old socket and match up the tabs on the bayonet lock mount.

Tried it, didn't make a difference. Both the bulb and socket contacts are clean, what else could it be? Tried it, didn't make a difference. Both the bulb and socket contacts are clean, what else could it be? Bum socket. I've replaced a whole bunch of front turn signal sockets on XJs and MJs over the years, and I've seen a bunch more as used vehicles or in junk yards where some previous owner beat me to it.

Go to Lowe's or Home Depot or a large Sears HARDWARE store and buy the shortest 1/2"x20 bolt you can find, and a 1/2" I.D. O-ring. Cut the bolt to a length that will barely allow the head of the bolt to seat on the valve body when the tip of the bolt contacts the seat inside the bore, then cut or grind it just a tad more -- not more than 1/16 of an inch. Put the O-ring on the bolt. Put a dab of silicone RTV on the end of the bolt and allow it to set up, then screw it in enough to slightly compress the O-ring. Done. I think the threaded portion of the bolt will need to be about 3/8" to 7/16" long, but it's been a few years since I last did one so I don't remember for sure. Might be as short as 5/16" but I don't think so.

Nice photo of the garage. Is there supposed to be an airplane in there somewhere?

If the rear circuit wasn't bled properly and the rear height sensing valve is till in place, it is likely that the rear circuit has air in it and that would be enough to trip the warning light.

All good info on leaks, but ... ... the problem here seems to be electrical on top of a suspected fuel leak. The leaks probably won't prevent the engine from starting ... but they may set it on fire. The no-start until you jiggle the injectors sounds like a wiring harness issue. Trying to trouble shoot TWO problems -- which may or may not be interrelated -- is never fun.

If you can smell fuel, you should be thanking the deity of your choice that it WON'T start. True story: One of my friends from NAXJA a number of years back smelled fuel and deduced that the injectors in his heavily and extensively customized MJ were leaking. So he drove to the dealership and went into the parts department to buy an O-ring set. He came out of the parts department a few minutes later to find his heavily and extensively modified MJ fully engulfed in flames. The truck was a total loss. If you smell gas, DON'T drive it until you identify the problem and fix it.

Give us a hint -- what was the problem?

It should look exactly like your old one did. As noted above, you probably cross-threaded it.

I specified the rear because my experience is that the front windows get used a lot more, so they are usually not worth bothering with.

A window handle from the rear door of a 4-door Cherokee.

It almost certainly is the alternator. I went through this with my '88 Cherokee and again with my '88 Comanche. Remove the alternator and take it to Autozone or Advance Auto to have it bench tested.

I've found that this is usually due to a dirty idle air sensor (IAS). However -- if this is a Renix 4.0L, there's another possibility: The throttle cable from the gas peddle doesn't run directly to the throttle body. The cable runs to a bellcrank mounted down low on the driver's side frame rail, and from there it's a rigid connector. I have twice had that bellcrank pivot get either rusted up or gunked up, so that the return spring wasn't strong enough to pull the engine down to idle. Soaking the pivot with PB Blaster cured it. Other times, when the high idle was due to the IAS (which is more common), running a few cans of fuel system cleaner through the tank cleared it up.

I know one guy from NAXJA-NAC who did a Renix 2.5L to Renix 4.0L swap in one weekend. But he already had all the donor stuff stripped out of the donor vehicle, prepped and ready to go -- and he worked the ENTIRE weekend, Friday evening through late Sunday night with no sleep to get it on the road for Monday morning. Realistically, it can't be done in a weekend.

Ouch. Yeah, that'll do it.

U-joint.

Why would you take the axle down that far to clean it out, and NOT replace the seals? False economy.

Test the CPS. Don't do the resistance (ohm) test -- it isn't reliable, plus the spec is for the resistance at operating temperature, and how the heck are we supposed to reach operating temperature if the engine doesn't start? Do the voltage-whe--cranking test -- somebody posted a link to it just a couple or three days ago.

I'm pretty sure Jeep called that wheel color "Argent," which is the French word for Silver but which as Jeep used it on wheels is like a silver-grey (or grey-silver) rather than the more "canned chrome" look of Rustoleum silver paint. If you're doing them all, I wouldn't worry too much about being an exact match to the factory color.

The XJ and MJ (and the YJ, TJ, etc) don't have locking hubs. The axle shafts are always engaged to the wheels. The YJ Wranglers and the early XJs and MJs with the 231 transfer case used a split axle shaft on the right side, with a sliding coupler like a transmission synchronizer ring, to engage or disconnect the front axle in 4WD. Please answer the questions I asked in post #6.

The 5.0L Ford injectors are used as replacements for the Renix 4.0L Jeeps. They don't flow enough for the HOs and post-HOs.

Assuming a 2-3/4" axle tube and making NO changes other than just flipping from spring-under to spring-over, the flip should generate 5-1/4" to 5-1/2" of lift. If you're doing an axle swap at the same time, and replacing a Dana 35 with a dana 44, Chrysler 8.25", of Ford 8.8", add to that the difference in axle tube diameter between the D35 and whichever axle you're swapping in.

Big tires certainly accelerate wear on the hub/bearing units, but ... ... a couple of centimeters is almost an inch. The hub/bearing unit is held together by the nut on the stub shaft compressing the bearings against the shoulder on the stub shaft. The hub absolutely CANNOT separate by anything remotely approaching an inch unless it turns to powder.