Eagle

Also check the amperage the starter draws when cranking. As starter motors age, the internal resistance can build up, resulting in slow cranking because the battery can't produce enough power. Somewhere in my tool box, from decades ago, I have a little tester that you just hold against the wire from the battery to the starter and it reads the draw by induction. I don't think you have told us yet if the cranking speed is slower when hot.

Okay for what? What size tires? Lift? Stock flares, or trimmed?

Check the resistance in your spark plug wires -- both cold and hot.

1. Do not put a locker in a tow rig. Limited slip, okay. Locker ... no. 2. An MJ is too small and too light to be towing the load you are describing. 3. 3.55 gears with 33" tires will be a horrible combination. 31" tires with 3.73 gears is the exact same final drive ratio as stock tires with 3.55 gears. 3.55s with 33" tires will be significantly worse than stock tires with 3.07s. You need at least 4.56 gears with 33s.

If you just replaced the thermostat, did you make certain that the system was fully filled and "burped"? In cold weather, the coolant could be low (but not empty) without seeing the engine overheat. But, as gogmorgo has pointed out, low coolant can result in no heat. And those who have mentioned that short trips in cold weather, not allowing the engine to fully warm up, can result in condensation, which will also generate white sludge if exposed to oil vapors in the PCV system.

A rear hitch isn't, but if you bought a new Cherokee with the off-road package and no hitch, the factory rear tow point was ONE hook, that was hung off ONE frame rail (don't remember which, because I took it off a long time ago). Please back you statement by showing that the off centered (even if factory offered) towing/recovery point is superior to a re-enforces center one that was suggested whether for the tower or the towee..... I have never seen a tow truck with a boom on the side.....or a front (or rear) mounted winch that suggests side mounting is preferred????? Where did I say it was superior? You wrote "..and i really have always been a fan of on center connection point on the front.....after all a rear hitch is not off centerd," and I merely pointed out that the factory rear tow point was not a hitch, but a single tow hook mounted on one frame rail. Something can be more than adequate to a task without having to be superior to something else ...

Oops. The link in the OP doesn't show the actual part, just the installed view. I looked at the kit beneath it and that's what I was referring to. Comment withdrawn. I don't know anything about this product, so I'll refrain from making a bigger fool of myself.

A rear hitch isn't, but if you bought a new Cherokee with the off-road package and no hitch, the factory rear tow point was ONE hook, that was hung off ONE frame rail (don't remember which, because I took it off a long time ago).

The C4x4 kit is a slightly improved version of the factory setup. It's what I would get. The kit in the opening post looks rather Mickey Mouse to me.

So much for memory.

VERY strange. You are charting new territory, I think. Let us know if things return to normal after drying out.

1990 was the last year for Renix. 1991 was the first year for the HO.

Usually indicates coolant contamination of the oil. Check your compression. Could be a head gasket.

That's all there is. Do NOT drive on it until it is properly located and the u-bolts have been correctly torqued. Then drive it gently for 25 or 50 miles and re-torque it. What did you use for new centering bolts? The head should just pop into the hole on the axle bracket. If it doesn't, the heads on your new bolts may be oversized.

5,000 is the redline, and if you try to go beyond that the hydraulic lifters will limit you due to valve float. That said, the torque peak is at 2400 RPM and the horsepower peak is at (IIRC) 4700 RPM, so trying to hit or exceed redline is not just wasteful, it's counterproductive. I have logged easily over a million miles behind the 4.0L engine in various XJs and MJ, and I don't think I've ever gone higher than 3,500 RPM. There's just no reason do do so.

The resistor pack has three resistors, or different values. Full voltage runs the fan at full speed, and this will still function even if the resistor pack is blown. The resistors drop the voltage, causing the fan to run at reduced speeds. There's a thermal fuse in the pack, and that's what usually goes bad. But -- it's soldered in place, and there is no published procedure to repair a bad resistor pack. It's much easier to just replace it.

Going from memory, I think it's 10mm x 1.5. It is metric, and they should be flange nuts.

There should have been no V-6s beyond the 1986 model year.

They don't last forever. My '88 XJ at 287,000 miles is on the third blower motor.

Seconded. Always go with the least amount of lift possible ... for several reasons. FWIW, blocks tell me this is an XJ kit. The XJ starts out with SOA. The MJ is SUA -- blocks would LOWER an MJ, not lift it.

Easy to do. I helped a friend swap a cluster with a tachometer into his truck -- the "new" one had much higher mileage, so we swapped the original speedo into the new cluster. Each speedo is held into the cluster by only two (three?) screws.

There's a whole lot of wrong in that link.

For starters, why do you want 6-1/2"? Especially if you don't know much about suspensions, it's not a good idea to go higher than what you actually need for the truck and where it will be driven. What size tires do you plan to run? What wheels do you plan to run -- width and backspacing? How much money do you have? At 6-1/2 inches, you should be budgeting at the LEAST for adjustable upper and lower control arms, and preferably a long arm conversion. How much of this is included in your kit? Brake line drops are NOT adequate even for a 4-1/2" lift, and certainly not for 6-1/2". You should be budgeting for new brake lines -- scrap the drops -- they are a band-aid, nothing more. Does the kit include an adjustable track bar? If so, does the range cover going to 6-1/2"

Doing a SOA conversion adds about 5-1/2" right there. On top of a 4-1/2" lift kit, you're at 10" iof lift. And you want to add MORE?

I don't find it amusing at all. Case closed.