Eagle

VERY strange. You are charting new territory, I think. Let us know if things return to normal after drying out.

1990 was the last year for Renix. 1991 was the first year for the HO.

Usually indicates coolant contamination of the oil. Check your compression. Could be a head gasket.

That's all there is. Do NOT drive on it until it is properly located and the u-bolts have been correctly torqued. Then drive it gently for 25 or 50 miles and re-torque it. What did you use for new centering bolts? The head should just pop into the hole on the axle bracket. If it doesn't, the heads on your new bolts may be oversized.

5,000 is the redline, and if you try to go beyond that the hydraulic lifters will limit you due to valve float. That said, the torque peak is at 2400 RPM and the horsepower peak is at (IIRC) 4700 RPM, so trying to hit or exceed redline is not just wasteful, it's counterproductive. I have logged easily over a million miles behind the 4.0L engine in various XJs and MJ, and I don't think I've ever gone higher than 3,500 RPM. There's just no reason do do so.

The resistor pack has three resistors, or different values. Full voltage runs the fan at full speed, and this will still function even if the resistor pack is blown. The resistors drop the voltage, causing the fan to run at reduced speeds. There's a thermal fuse in the pack, and that's what usually goes bad. But -- it's soldered in place, and there is no published procedure to repair a bad resistor pack. It's much easier to just replace it.

Going from memory, I think it's 10mm x 1.5. It is metric, and they should be flange nuts.

There should have been no V-6s beyond the 1986 model year.

They don't last forever. My '88 XJ at 287,000 miles is on the third blower motor.

Seconded. Always go with the least amount of lift possible ... for several reasons. FWIW, blocks tell me this is an XJ kit. The XJ starts out with SOA. The MJ is SUA -- blocks would LOWER an MJ, not lift it.

Easy to do. I helped a friend swap a cluster with a tachometer into his truck -- the "new" one had much higher mileage, so we swapped the original speedo into the new cluster. Each speedo is held into the cluster by only two (three?) screws.

There's a whole lot of wrong in that link.

For starters, why do you want 6-1/2"? Especially if you don't know much about suspensions, it's not a good idea to go higher than what you actually need for the truck and where it will be driven. What size tires do you plan to run? What wheels do you plan to run -- width and backspacing? How much money do you have? At 6-1/2 inches, you should be budgeting at the LEAST for adjustable upper and lower control arms, and preferably a long arm conversion. How much of this is included in your kit? Brake line drops are NOT adequate even for a 4-1/2" lift, and certainly not for 6-1/2". You should be budgeting for new brake lines -- scrap the drops -- they are a band-aid, nothing more. Does the kit include an adjustable track bar? If so, does the range cover going to 6-1/2"

Doing a SOA conversion adds about 5-1/2" right there. On top of a 4-1/2" lift kit, you're at 10" iof lift. And you want to add MORE?

I don't find it amusing at all. Case closed.

The XJ and the MJ could be had with several different types of mirrors, including the door-mounted towing package mirrors. And several people here have put the larger side mirrors from the 97+ XJs onto older XJs and MJs.

And where are you going to get red taillight bulbs? That aren't blinding to anyone behind you when you hit the brakes?

Nice attitude? Look at the smart @$$ link that helpful person posted. What do you expect when you put up an EMPTY post, and then less than a day later you complain because nobody responded?

Do NOT try to wire the fan directly to a toggle switch, bypassing the relay. They put a relay in the circuit for a reason. I don't know what the amperage is on the Renix aux fan but on my wife's 2000 XJ it's on a 40-amp fuse -- and we've seen it blow that fuse. If you run it directly off a switch, I hope you own stock in a company that makes toggle switches, because you're going to be buying a lot of them.

The thermal sensor triggers a relay. More than likely the relay is stuck.

Tried it, didn't make a difference. Both the bulb and socket contacts are clean, what else could it be? Bad socket. VERY common problem.

That's because an '86 is an AMC. Chrysler didn't start picking up VIN numbers until the 1988 model year, IIRC, and often the information reflected in a Chrysler-generated build sheet for an '88 didn't even remotely correspond to the vehicle. However, Chrysler bought AMC, so Chrysler bought the recall liability.

Just noticed I had that backwards. The thermostat is open while the temperature drops. It would be staying open too long before closing.

Loss of power is often caused by a clogged catalytic converter. Do you have converters in Mexico?

The pitman arm can only go onto the output shaft of the new box one way. No alignment should be necessary.