Eagle

But the question was whether ALL 2.5L 5-speeds came with 4.10 gears, and the answer is no. Chrysler standardized on 4.10s for the 2.5L somewhere in the 1990s, but AMC era 2.5L 5-speeds might have 3.73s or 4.56s.

Yep. 4.0L, no C101 -- it's a late '89 or a '90.

You are leaving the front bleeder open while doing the rear, correct? Is the brake warning light on the dashboard lit when you open the front bleeder and step on the brakes?

IMHO it's not worth buying them on-line. The shipping will eat up any saving. Go to your local AutoZone or Advance or Shucks or NAPA and just buy 'em there.

No, this is not a common issue. In fact, after owning and playing with XJs and MJs since I bought an XJ new in 1988, I have never encountered one with a jumper to the auxiliary fan. I know that some owners install a toggle switch in the cabin so they can turn on the fan manually when wheeling, but that's generally a matter or preference rather than necessity. The fan is controlled by a relay that should be located on the inner fender, next to the air intake box. More than likely the relay is messed up and the previous owner was too lazy or too stupid to fix it properly.

What wattage are the fog lights, and how many of them will there be? The CB isn't a heavy draw, but lights can be. And the draw on a power outlet will depend on what you plug into it. Since you don't know what the total draw is going to be, IMHO you need the heaviest wire you can get. I'd run no smaller than 10-gauge -- maybe even 8-gauge. And why would you run the fog lights off a tap inside the cab? You're increasing the length of the wire run, which increases the voltage drop in the wiring. You'll still need a relay somewhere between the lights and the switch. It's much better to locate the relay under the hood, keep the heavy-duty wire runs as short as possible, and then run only the relay "trigger" wires to a switch inside the cabin.

There's your problem. In this procedure, opening the front bleeder is to simulate a front brake FAILURE. That means you have to allow fluid out and air in. You have to bleed the fronts again anyway in this procedure, so temporarily replace one side speed bleeder in front with a conventional bleed screw, bleed the two rear circuits, then replace the front speed bleeder and finish up.

I'm pretty sure YJ shocks won't fit an MJ. Too round to make decent paper weights. Don't waste your money.

Won't help. The sockets are bad internally. Replace. Been there, done that. And don't even think about junkyard sockets. This is a known issue with XJs and MJs -- why replace one 25-year old part with another 25-year old part that has the same problem? There is a socket marked for some Ford vehicle that's usually available in the Dorman "HELP!" parts line at all the parts chains that fits the XJ/MJ light housings perfectly. Unfortunately, I don't remember the part number.

Replace both front turn signal sockets. Your sockets are bad, and the lights are grounding by backfeeding through the dashboard.

Just another voice to add to the chorus: YOU ARE DESTROYING YOUR TRANSFER CASE. It isn't intended to be in 4WD on dry pavement.

Because heat increases the resistance in wires and connections.

Photo of front bleed screw?

There should be a bleed hole. Is it possible that someone installed speed bleeders in your calipers, and the plungers are frozen?

Impossible. With 3.55 gears, 31" tires at 75 MPH run 2250 RPM, nowhere near 3200. However, whether you like it or not, at 75 MPH 3200 RPM is about where you should be. The basic engine design goes back to AMC in the days before we had overdrive transmissions. Factory gearing typically was 24 MPH per 1000 RPM ... which meant that 2500 RPM was exactly 60 MPH, and 3000 RPM was 72 MPH. My brother had a Gremlin set up like that. Even with autocrossing it to two state championships it still went well over 300,000 miles. 3.55 gears with 33" tires is a lousy setup even without towing. For towing, it's completely unacceptable.

Also check the amperage the starter draws when cranking. As starter motors age, the internal resistance can build up, resulting in slow cranking because the battery can't produce enough power. Somewhere in my tool box, from decades ago, I have a little tester that you just hold against the wire from the battery to the starter and it reads the draw by induction. I don't think you have told us yet if the cranking speed is slower when hot.

Okay for what? What size tires? Lift? Stock flares, or trimmed?

Check the resistance in your spark plug wires -- both cold and hot.

1. Do not put a locker in a tow rig. Limited slip, okay. Locker ... no. 2. An MJ is too small and too light to be towing the load you are describing. 3. 3.55 gears with 33" tires will be a horrible combination. 31" tires with 3.73 gears is the exact same final drive ratio as stock tires with 3.55 gears. 3.55s with 33" tires will be significantly worse than stock tires with 3.07s. You need at least 4.56 gears with 33s.

If you just replaced the thermostat, did you make certain that the system was fully filled and "burped"? In cold weather, the coolant could be low (but not empty) without seeing the engine overheat. But, as gogmorgo has pointed out, low coolant can result in no heat. And those who have mentioned that short trips in cold weather, not allowing the engine to fully warm up, can result in condensation, which will also generate white sludge if exposed to oil vapors in the PCV system.

A rear hitch isn't, but if you bought a new Cherokee with the off-road package and no hitch, the factory rear tow point was ONE hook, that was hung off ONE frame rail (don't remember which, because I took it off a long time ago). Please back you statement by showing that the off centered (even if factory offered) towing/recovery point is superior to a re-enforces center one that was suggested whether for the tower or the towee..... I have never seen a tow truck with a boom on the side.....or a front (or rear) mounted winch that suggests side mounting is preferred????? Where did I say it was superior? You wrote "..and i really have always been a fan of on center connection point on the front.....after all a rear hitch is not off centerd," and I merely pointed out that the factory rear tow point was not a hitch, but a single tow hook mounted on one frame rail. Something can be more than adequate to a task without having to be superior to something else ...

Oops. The link in the OP doesn't show the actual part, just the installed view. I looked at the kit beneath it and that's what I was referring to. Comment withdrawn. I don't know anything about this product, so I'll refrain from making a bigger fool of myself.

A rear hitch isn't, but if you bought a new Cherokee with the off-road package and no hitch, the factory rear tow point was ONE hook, that was hung off ONE frame rail (don't remember which, because I took it off a long time ago).

The C4x4 kit is a slightly improved version of the factory setup. It's what I would get. The kit in the opening post looks rather Mickey Mouse to me.

So much for memory.