Eagle

You can (and IMHO should) keep the original steering column. Chrysler switched from a GM Saginaw column to their own in 1995. The Chrysler column and steering wheel have a driver's side air bag. If you want the air bag -- switch. If you don't feel the need for an air bag, there's no reason to change the steering column. Yes. It will fit. But the '96 Cherokee cluster is all electronic, including the speedo. The MJ cluster for '87 used a mechanical speedometer. Cherokees did not have air bags until 1995. Comanches never did. The "work around" is to not change the steering column. Unless you want the air bag, there's no reason to change.

??? Huh? The single keys are double sided, and both sides are identical.

As already stated, two keys were the standard for the early XJs and MJ. It is NOT possible to rekey the ignition or the doors to use one of the original keys. I tried. The first locksmith just said, "Nope, can't be done." Later I talked to a younger locksmith whom I know through other activities. He explained that the ignition used six tumblers ("bits," in locksmith lingo), and the doors used five tumblers. The spacing is different, so it's impossible to make one key that can operate both a six-bit lock cylinder and a five-bit cylinder. Your ignition key should be rectangular (with rounded corners) and the door key should be oval. If you look at the key part closely, you'll see that they are similar, but they are not the same. It is possible to change both the ignition cylinder and the door cylinders to later, Chrysler one-key locks. But I thought I had read that the Chrysler door cylinders don't fit the early doors correctly.

First, going back to a previous post, you have an '89. That's a Renix. The Renix system doesn't throw codes -- at least, not that anyone can read without the very expensive dedicated scan tool that even the old Jeep dealers have thrown away by now. On to your questions: 1. CPS -- Engine would still crank, just no spark. 2. Ignition switch -- strong possibility. 3. Starter solenoid -- that would cause a no crank, but could not cause a random die-out.

CT has liberal gun laws now? Hardly. But, regardless of how difficult it is to believe, California's are worse.

Want to trade weather? I've just gone through three consecutive nights of sub-zero "global warming." It didn't get out of the teens today. Biggest problem about California, though, is the (anti-)gun laws. I couldn't live there.

None of those numbers are considered to be "mismatched." It's common for 4WD vehicles to have one diff in the front and another in the rear. Just within XJs and MJs, you could have (from the factory) a dana 30 in the front and an AMC 20, Dana 35, Dana 44, or Chrysler 8.25 in the rear. Different diffs have different ring gear diameters, so they have different numbers of teeth on the ring gear and on the pinion gear to achieve the "same" ratio. But, due to the different tooth counts, the "same" ration could be 4.09, 4.10, or 4.11. In factory axles, that's why we see some refer to the factory axle used with the 4.0L automatic as 3.45 and some call it a 3.55. Both are correct -- it's just a question of front axle or rear axle. I would like to see what vendor offers 4.09, 4.10 AND 4.11 gears all for the Dana 44. That doesn't make any sense whatsoever.

I have a Truetrac in my '88 MJ. I love it. When I bought it the price was $350, compared to $250 for a Trac-Lok. I had already worn out the clutches on the '88 Cherokee's factory Trac-Lok (they only last 150,000 miles, can you imagine that?), so I liked the idea of no clutches. It works great. That said, at the current prices, I'd go for a Trac-Lok. For the difference in price, I can buy a lot of friction modifier.

A limited slip is what you originally asked about, and IMHO for street use a limited slip is much superior to a locker -- but there is no such thing (that I know of) as a lunchbox limited slip. To convert to limited slip you have to remove and discard your original differential carrier (not the outer case with the axle tubes, the inner differential that contains the spider gears) and replace the whole thing with a new differential unit. This means moving your existing ring gear over to a new carrier, and that means to do it right you have to have the tools and the knowledge to check the setup of the gears. You'll be installing new diff bearings, and new shims to set the backlash between the ring gear and the pinion gear. If you don't know how to do that, it'll cost you to have it done correctly. The advantage to the so-called "lunchbox" lockers is that they just replace the spider gears inside your existing carrier. Because you don't change the diff carrier, you don't need to set up the gears again. But ... it's a locker, with all the performance advantages and disadvantages that carries.

Capsule summary: There are a couple that work differently, but most limited slips use spring-loaded clutches inside the differential to lock the two sides (axle shafts) together. When the tires have no traction, the two axles stay locked together and both rear wheels turn at the same speed. If both wheels have traction, when you go around a corner the tires generate enough torque difference to make the clutches slip, at which point the differential acts like a differential and allows the tires to rotate at different speeds. That's a limited slip -- which is what you originally said you wanted. A locker uses springs and things inside the differential to lock and unlock the two rear axle shafts. Basically, when you're coasting they unlock, and when you apply power they lock. When you run a real locker you have to learn all over again how to turn corners, because you want to go in fast enough that you can let off the power and coast around the turn. Otherwise, you'll be chirping the tires all the way through the turn. It's the opposite of a limited slip -- more power around corners when both rear wheels have traction will NOT unlock a locker -- it'll lock it up tighter.

But most of the fuses in the footwell fuse panel on the MJ are replaced by the fuse panel in the passenger kick panel on the newer XJs, not by the PDC under the hood.

That's not what you wrote above:

I would suggest you get a 2000 XJ wiring diagram and check it out. See what goes through relays and what doesn't. If I understand your plan correctly, you intend to retain the Renix setup, and just reroute some wires to/through the updated PDC. I don't think the OEM Renix setup runs the ECU through a relay, and I doubt it draws much current, so why do you want to run it through a relay?

I think a relay operating a solenoid is redundant, but I would not advocate eliminating it. There must be a reason why both Jeep's engineers and Chrysler's engineers use a relay. But if the basic functions are going to be transferred from the original Renix 4-relay array to the 2000 PDC, that means you'll have a bank or four relays doing nothing. Those could easily be re-purposed for things like headlights, fog lights, auxiliary lights, etc.

The starter relay is, IMHO, redundant, because the starter is actuated by a solenoid. In "the old days," we only had solenoids. In effect, the current setup is like using a relay to operate a relay to operate a device. Bottom line: A relay is only a switch. ANY relay can send power to a solenoid. You are aware that a 2000 Cherokee doesn't have just the fuse panel under the hood, right? There's a second fuse panel in the passenger side footwell, behind the kick panel.

sweet, things for clearin that up guys, i was convinced i had a dana 35 c, so does that change the lockers posted above? Redwolf You DO have a Dana 35C. The 'C' does not indicate that it is a c-clip axle. (As explained above.) Most of the options for both limited-slips units, "lunchbox" lockers, and full-diff lockers are available for both the c-clip and non-c-clip versions of the Dana 35C axle. The lunchbox lockers are easier to install and don't require setting up the gears because you re-use the original differential housing, but they function as lockers, not limited slips. The handling/driving characteristics on the street are different, so if you don't understand the difference, do some homework before making a purchase.

The original Wrangler Radials such as what came on the early XJs and the MJs has been discontinued in 225/75R15 but it is still available in 235/75R15. Wal-Mart sells them for under $100 per tire. I just put a set on my XJ and I'm more than happy with them. I don't know what you've heard or read about Wranglers, but I'll keep buying them as long as Goodyear keeps making them.

It's attached to the transmission bracket on the crossmember.

Part #19 in the exploded diagram from the link yxmj gave you is the rubber "strap"

I believe the eliminator was only sold with the 4.0L I-6.

Which is too narrow, so it requires either aftermarket wheels or spacers, and it requires an adaptation for the u-joints. That's on top of welding on spring perches. And then you have to figure out how to rig a parking brake. It's a decent axle, but it's not exactly a bolt-in.

You can buy a Trac-Lok carrier assembly from any of the gear and axle places, such as Randy's Ring and Pinion, Dynatrack, etc. Installing a Trac-Lok will convert your open axle to a limited slip. Just so you understand -- this is a complete carrier replacement, which means you are replacing the "big chunk" inside your differential. You will be unstalling a new carrier, new bearings, and new shims. It will require resetting the ring gear to pinion clearance and backlash. If you don't know how to do gear setup, don't fool around -- pay a professional (who has the right tools and gauges) to do it. If you have to pay someone to do it for you -- it's cheaper to buy a junkyard axle if you can find one with the limited slip.

The factory offered a limited slip option with both the Dana 35 and the Dana 44 (and in the XJ with the Chrysler 8.25"). Jeep called it Trac-Lok. The units were made by Dana-Spicer and are readily available on the aftermarket. If you're buying new, the Dana Trac-Lok is the least expensive limited slip you can buy. It's also less aggressive than some others but, for street and moderate trail use, it's fine. I have Trac-Lok diffs in all my XJs and in the '87 MJ. The Trac-Lok uses clutches (as do most limited slips), which requires an additive for the gear lube. If you find a Trac-Lok axle in a junkyard, it might still function but there's a good chance the clutch packs may be worn out. (They don't last forever -- 125,000 miles is probably the maximum life expectancy). Rebuild kits are available. As with all MJ axle swaps, the easiest swap is going to be another Jeep axle because it'll have the same overall width. Unless it comes out of an MJ, though, you will have to weld on spring perches in the correct locations.

That'll do it. Glad you got it fixed.

Heck, it it's just a blown motor the XJ is a perfect source from a front clip update. The parts for that (two fenders, header, grille, lights, bumber, etc) would easily cost twice the asking price for the vehicle. The rest is just gravy. Fuse panel setup is totally different. 2000 XJ has one fure panel in the passenger side footwell kick plate, and another on the passenger side under the hood. The entire wiring harness is different. None of it can be used in an MJ unless you plan to swap in the entire updated harness.