Eagle

Didn't remember that there IS a "Not your stuff" area. Sorry. Lemme see if I can move it. On second thought, that area says it's for things you find on Craig's List, eBay, etc. I don't think this falls in that category. However, if the staff agrees it should be moved there, go ahead and move it, or PM me and I'll move it.

I've only been doing this auto hobby stuff for a bit over fifty years, but I've never heard of "setting" the throttle wide open to run a compression check. Sure enough, though, the 2000 XJ FSM says to do that. Dunno why. 2000 XJ FSM says compression should be between 120 and 150, so 90 is VERY low. It would be enough to run, but not to run well. A compression gauge isn't all that expensive. I'd buy a new one so you know what you have.

^^^ What he said. For reasons lost in the mists of time, Jeep was rather schizophrenic regarding their use of low- and high-pinion D30 axles. The YJ Wrangler was (IIRC) high-pinion. The TJ Wrangler, oddly enough, was low-pinion. The ZJ and WJ Grand Cherokees were low pinion. The early XJs and all MJs were high-pinion. The XJ was changed to low-pinion for the 2000 and 2001 production years. So ... if your MJ really has a low-pinion front axle, it's a replacement. If so, you can use gears from a Grand Cherokee low-pinion axle. If your front axle is a replacement, it would be wise to find out what year and model vehicle it came out of, because most likely the hub/bearing units, rotors and calipers will NOT be the same as what your MJ originally used.

Strictly preference. I have always preferred manual transmission. However, after trying some of the higher rated trails at Paragon (like the boulder field), I have reluctantly had to acknowledge that automatic is far better for serious rock crawling.

Southern Connecticut. Neighbor knocked on the door this evening and said her son's 1993 XJ has a small leak in the radiator. Rather than fix it, since he has a long commute, they're going to sell it. I haven't seen it, but I'm pretty sure it hasn't been off-road and is probably in decent shape. They are a multi-XJ family (must be something in the local water). It's a 5-speed, which for a '93 should be an AX-15. 173,000 miles. If anyone is interested, I think from what she said they'll let it go cheap. Drop me a PM with a phone number and/or e-mail if you want more info and I'll pass it along to her.

I'm posting in the Pub rather than the classifieds because I'm not selling anything (at the moment). I have three XJ hulks sitting in the yard that have to be made to disappear. Before I either have them hauled out or I fire up Dr. Sawzall, if anyone within driving distance of New haven, Connecticut, can use anything off them, let me know and come on down. #1 is the worst. It WAS an '86 XJ 2.8L V6. The interior and wiring harness had been mostly stripped out by a previous owner before I got it. It was one of two same-vintage XJs he was going to merge into one driveable vehicle, then he abandoned the project. Glass is intact. Doors are mostly intact, but interior trim is gone. Drive train is still in it, so if anyone needs a 2.8L, the tranny, and whatever transfer case it has, you're welcome to them. All I plan to keep off this one is the axles and the skid plates. #2 is an '89 XJ Pioneer 4.0L. It ran a few years ago when I gave it to one of the younger guys in NAXJA, then he bought a nicer one and gave this one back. He said the engine had a knock, which could be a wrist pin or could be the flex plate. Body is rough (very). Drive train is all there. #3 is an '87 XJ Base model 4.0L. I hope to use the engine and drive train from this in an MJ. Doors and glass are solid, tailgate is good. Hasn't been stripped so most small parts should still be usable (although I haven't really paid attention to it for a couple or three years). Last call -- if you need things, send me a PM. This offer is strictly u-pull ... I'm too old, too tired, and too hot to take parts off so I can give them away.

Mate, unless you absolutely need a new front pipe, do NOT try to change it. You WILL break or strip at least one of the studs where the pipe flange bolts to the exhaust manifold, and then you'll have no choice other than to drill out the broken stubs and hope you don't trash the manifold in the process. IIRC, the four bolts at the cat flange need to be two different lengths. I think two are 1" and two and either 1-1/4" or 1-1/2". Just measure what you have. Yes, the muffler clamps are strong enough without welding. That's what the factory used. I've been using them for over 50 years -- I've never welded an exhaust system in my life.

Crap! I wish people wouldn't be so "designy" with their signatures. Whatever color his is, on my monitor it doesn't even show up unless you squint and look for it. I didn't know he HAD a signature until I saw your post. (Yeah, I know ... it's the forum default. That doesn't make it good, it just shows that whoever wrote the forum software doesn't know jack about how the human eye perceives color.) Whatever happened to basic black?

ah ok, well i don't think they'll be the issue, i don't my MJ has that cause that sounds computer related and i don't have a computer, Redwolf You don't have a computer? What year MJ and what engine?

Manifold? I thought you were just replacing the muffler and tailpipe. Wherever you start, work from the front toward the rear. Heed dinghyboy's advice to line things up before clamping. But ... unless you need to replace the front exhaust (down) pipe, you won't be touching the manifold. The front pipe ends in a 4-bolt flage, and there's no way that can be misaligned, so you can bolt up a new catalytic converter (if you're replacing that" and sock it down. The cat flange connection uses 5/16" bolts, IIRC, and it takes a gasket. Don't forget the gasket. If you're buying the parts from AutoZone, I was just there half an hour ago and their listing for a 2001 Cherokee is incorrect. They show a 3-bolt gasket for the front pipe to catalytic converter, and it should be a 4-bolt gasket -- just like the Comanches.

That's all you need.-- two muffler clamps. (Three if you have to insert an adapter to make up length.)

If a picture is worth a thousand words, what did I just do? Maybe 100 or 150 pixels?

On the stock system, the catalytic converter bolts to the exhaust pipe (down pipe) with a 4-bolt flange, so it sounds like you're good on that part. All other connections are female/male slip fittings. The catalytic converter has a moderately long output put that leaves the cat as a 2-1/2" and reduces to a 2-1/4" OD. The muffler inlet is 2-1/4" ID, so the muffler slips over the cat. The muffler outlet is also 2-1/4" ID, and the tailpipe is 2-1/4" OD, so the tailpipe slips into the muffler outlet. If you need to make up length, the parts houses have short 2-1/4 ID x 2-1/4 OD adapters you can use to make up the difference.

The cam bearings don't know or care of the displacement is 4.0 or 4.7 liters. Cam bearings should not fail in 282 miles.

If it were a bad synchro, it would pop out any time you put load to it. Might be an internal adjustment, or it might be that your friend isn't shifting it fully into gear.

3500 RPM is far below the redline for the 2.5L engine, but using that as a shift point you get: 1st ==> 17 MPH 2nd ==> 29 MPH 3rd ==> 47 MPH 4th ==> 68 MPH

The profile is not at all noticeable.

You won't do a body lift, because the cab part of the MJ (Comanche) is unibody. Where are the tires rubbing? Are you running factory Jeep rims or aftermarket? If aftermarket, what width, and what backspacing?

Tell us what RPM you'd like to use for your shift point and I'll work up the speeds in gears.

You can replace the electronic speedo drive with a mechanical. I don't know if you need the long or short gear, however. Don't use the later transfer case unless you plan to do a slip yoke eliminator. The output shaft is VERY long, it is prone to vibration, and it is also prone to causing breakdowns when subjected to serious off-road use. It's a half-baked solution -- Jeep should have done a factory equivalent of a true slip yoke eliminator and used a sealed output, short tailshaft, and put the slip joint in the driveshaft.

First, because the factory service manual specifically says NOT to resurface the flywheel. (Which doesn't really answer your question of "Why?"). Second, because every single person I know of who has had a 4.0L flywheel resurfaced has reported problems with the new clutch, and in most of those cases replacing the flywheel cured the problems.

They are completely unnecessary. If the standard rearview and two sideview mirrors are correctly adjusted, there is no blind spot, from 90 degrees right (passenger side) all the way around to 90 degrees left (driver's side).

I remember Wink mirrors. IMHO they are a solution in search of a problem, and in use they are exceptionally distracting. Personally, I think they're dangerous and should not be legal, but ... nobody asked me. If you don't see them any more -- consider that there may be a reason for that.

The concept of the expansion tank and "closed" system is not a bad idea. Several other manufacturers were using it at the same time Jeep first used it ('87 thru '90), and Jeep went back to it with the Liberty. The problem with it as executed on the '87 - '90 XJ and MJ is that they used a plastic cap on a plastic bottle, and plastic is not particularly stable as temperature changes. One of the favored "fixes" for the XJ & MJ has been to get expansion tanks from Pontiacs or Dodges in the junk yard. These have "real" pressure caps on them. Not knowing about that, I replaced mine with an all-aluminum surge tank my Moroso, which uses a standard radiator cap. Back to the original question: If your truck still has the original radiator, most likely it's plugged and not providing much cooling in summer weather,. My '88 XJ (the one I bought new) is currently on it's third radiator. BTW - just adding a filler neck in the radiator hose doesn't make the original surge tank into an overflow tank. It'll still be part of the pressurized system. An "overflow" tank is outside of the pressurized system, and separated from it by the radiator cap.

Those are just the lug nuts, not the oblong inserts to keep the wheels located. Plus those lug nuts are bullet shaped, which is a bit strange. Even AutoZone has the correct lug nuts, but they don't seem to offer the correct inserts. The lug nuts look like these: If the manufacturer's name is stamped on the wheels anywhere, perhaps they are still in business and can provide the inserts.