Eagle

To avoid possible issues with the transfer case input shaft not mating with the transmission, you should buy a transmission and transfer case together. You have a 2.5L, so you can't use a transmission from a 4.0L vehicle of any year, because the 4.0L has a different, larger bell housing bolt pattern. So you need a transmission and transfer case from a 2.5L Cherokee or Comanche, and you need the transfer case shifter and linage, plus the bezel for the center console.

My 2000 XJ 4.0L 5-speed is eating throttle position sensors. Bought new in 2000, one of the last of the 2000 model year. I replaced the throttle position sensor a little over a year ago, hoping to cure intermittent roughness. That didn't seem to fix it, so I replaced the idle air controller on March 24, at 53, 178 miles. Still didn't fix it, and it got progressively worse very quickly. I replaced the TPS again on June 21, at 53,728 miles. When I started it up to leave work today, it didn't start smoothly, it sort of coughed to life, running very roughly. The check engine light came on, and I could smell gas. It ran, but roughly, for the few miles from the office to the highway. Once on the highway, it seemed to smooth out. I hooked up a scanner when I got home and it threw a code P0123: TPS Sensor Circuit, High Input. What's going on here?

It's nothing but a mechanical timer. There are no sensors that trigger it -- it's a reminder to replace the O2 sensor.

Worse yet, Paragon closed years ago. That's where the North Atlantic Chapter of NAXJA used to hold our annual NACFest.

Dupli-Color spray chrome?

The rear fender flares are NOT the same as Cherokee flares -- the MJ rear wheel arch opening is both wider (longer) and higher than the XJ. I don't know of any aftermarket sources for the MJ flares, so junkyards and Jeep forums are where the action is for those.

It will if the washer is hardened, and properly sized for the bolt. When I bought the '88 Chief, the trackbar hole was badly wallowed out. My good friend, the VW guru, had a bag full of leftover parts from some VW factory service kit. In the bag of parts we found a double-thickness, hardened fender washer and a hardened nut and bolt the correct size and length for the track bar. He welded the washer onto the face of the factory bracket ... and that was that.

A dinky, mesh floor, open utility trailer from Tractor Supply will cost you a grand, and what have you got? A dinkly, open utility trailer from Tractor Supply. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/carry-on-trailer-5-ft-x-8-ft-open-mesh-floor-utility-trailer-5x8sp-gen If that thing were anywhere near me, it wouldn't still be for sale.

It won't really fit even with fabricating -- unless you cut the 23-gallon tank down to the size of the 18-gallon tank.

That scale should be linear -- unlike the temperature gauge.

IMHO the best and easiest fix is to wel on a hardened washer of the correct size. Ideally, the washer should be a double-thick washer.

That shifts the axle 1/2-inch to one side. Not a good solution unless you have an adjustable track bar.

Which part has been removed -- the front distribution block, or the rear proportioning valve? If the front distribution block has been removed, how did you drive the truck before you took it to the shop? If the mechanic removed it -- tell him to put it back in, and then find a different shop. If the rear thing has been eliminated, you don't have a proportioning valve (unless the front distribution block has been replaced by an XJ or ZJ front proportioning valve. My advice is to buy an aftermarket adjustable proportioning valve and install that in the line to your rear brakes. That will allow you to tune your brakes to avoid premature rear wheel lock-up (which is the purpose of proportioning valves). However, as I think someone already mentioned, if you tune it with the bed empty, you should readjust it if/when you carry heavy loads. If you tune it with a heavy load, you MUST readjust it when you run empty. https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd?itemno=260-10922 From the factory, the MJ had TWO hard lines from the front to the back. One fed the rear proportioning valve, and that was the primary, everyday brake circuit. The other line was an emergency by-pass line. If the front brake circuit fails, you want full pressure to the rear brakes, so the emergency circuit by-passes the rear proportioning valve to deliver full pressure to the rear brakes. After re-reading this entire thread, I'm still not clear what was removed from your truck, or what "problem" your mechanic was having. And did HE remove something, or was something removed by a previous owner?

You probably need 23-pound injectors.

They are different for the LWB and SWB boxes. Which box do you have, and what did the bar come out of?

https://www.mrmoly.com/product-p/55932.htm

No. That's a proportioning valve for an XJ Cherokee or a ZJ Grand Cherokee. Look again at the photo Pete posted showing the XJ and MJ units. That thingie in the front of the Comanche is NOT a proportioning valve, it is a distribution block and brake failure warning light switch. That's ALL it is.

How do you know it's running at 250 degrees? There's no marked point on the temperature gauge for 250. Is the needle in the red?

Tire balance.

Adjusting the track bar will shift the font axle left or right.

If you have access to a garage with a flat and level floor, you can align it yourself.

'89 or '90 harness would be better, because they don't have the C101 connector. Saves the trouble of bypassing it.

Nope. Bad CPS. Fails when heat soaked.

I would (go to the effort to remove it). As Pete already commented, the increased friction/drag loss of the engaged front axle compared to the unlocked front axle may look significant in that graph, but that's ONLY the front axle. In the macrocosm of the entire vehicle, it doesn't amount to anything. And don't forget, that's an SAE article, it's not specific to Jeep with the XJ/MJ half-baked disconnect that still leaves the left side axle connected to the differential, so there's still some friction loss there, plus the internals of the front diff are still churning around in there. So we're not getting the reduction that a vehicle with Warn hubs would see. Beyond that, it (the front axle disconnect) is just one more thing to break. My original '88 Cherokee has it. When do you suppose it decided to fail? On my way to work one morning, in a blizzard, when I was wearing a suit. And I didn't even know that it had failed, because the dash light that said I was in 4WD came on even though the vacuum line at the CAD had rotted and fallen off. So I was going up a hill in 4-Hi ... and I got about halfway up and that was as far as I was going to go. I tried probably half a dozen times. Even with a functional Trac-Lok in the rear axle, I could ... not ... get ... up ... that ... hill. So I gave up and took a round-about route that didn't involve steep hills. I didn't find out the CAD had failed until I was underneath the Jeep doing the next oil change. It all depends on your usage. If you often find yourself in situations where you can really benefit from 2WD-Low, then install a Posi-Lock. For most of us, I doubt we'll need 2WD-Low often enough to justify the cost of converting to a Posi-Lock. For the rest of us, just open up the CAD, slide the collar over and lock it in place, and button it up again. No more worries about the vacuum lines rotting, swelling, or splitting.

That's a good way to trash the steering box. And if you backed off a quarter of a turn, it's no wonder the steering is wandering. Get the FSM and adjust the steering box correctly, and it should make a big difference. Just keep in mind that it's a recirculating ball steering box -- it will NEVER be as tight as rack-and-pinion.