Eagle

If the hose from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder blew, there would be fluid loss. The master cylinder and the slave cylinder each have a piston inside with a rubber seal. If the lip of the seal goes bad, the piston can move without pushing fluid, so you wouldn't see a loss of fluid in the reservoir. The piston just slides back and forth without doing anything. Also -- inspect your fuse panel under the dashboard (over the driver's left foot) carefully. If the master cylinder goes bad, it can allow brake/clutch fluid to weep onto the fuse panel, and that will destroy the contacts VERY quickly. The fact that you see a "little bit" of fluid is a bad sign. There's probably more that you can't see, on the back side of the fuse panel board. That's a clue that the master cylinder has failed, and also that you need to remove the fuse panel and flush all the brake fluid off it before it's too late.

There are three things that could have spring a leak -- the master cylinder, the slave cylinder, or the rubber hose that connects the two.

A lot of equipment could be ordered as separate options in the AMC days. It's quite possible that the Model 20 axle was ordered as part of some other package rather than the Metric Tonne package. Possibly a towing or tow prep package. My '87 shortbed as a Dana 44 rear axle, and the Metric Tonne package wasn't offered on the shortbeds.

https://janaktech.wordpress.com/2016/02/19/particulate-matter-and-nox-emissions-phenomena-in-engines/ https://www.alentecinc.com/papers/NOx/The formation of NOx_files/The formation of NOx.htm

NOX is related to temperature, isn't it? What thermostat are you running -- and does it work? What spark plugs are you using?

It was called Classic Shell. The developer quit when Windows 10 came out and broke it, but someone else picked it up. It's now called "Open Shell" and it's a free download. I'm running Open Shell now. It's the only thing that makes Windows 10 tolerable.

Sounds to me like they had switched from being an AMC franchise to being a used car dealer by the time AMC bought Jeep. I doubt they have any Jeep parts at all.

It shouldn't. Jeep used the flange until the middle of the 2000 production year. My late wife's 2000 XJ (November 1999) has the flange. My 2000 XJ (April 2000) doesn't. Both were purchased new, so I know they are both original.

For those who don't know, the old 232 engine (3.8L) had the same 3.75" bore as the 258/4.2L, but the stroke was 3.50" instead of 3.90". The 4.0L has a 3.88" bore and a 3.41" stroke. Put them together and a 4.0L engine with a 232 crank will yield a displacement of 4.07 liters at the stock 3.88" bore, 4.13 liters at a .030 over-bore, and 4.20 liters at a .060" over-bore. For comparison, the stock 4.0L is actually 3.97L at stock bore, 4.03 liters at .030" over-bore, and 4.09 liters at .060" over-bore.

Most people aren't even aware of (or forget) the old 232. I've considered doing a mini-stroker based on that crank, but you're the only person I've even heard of who has done it.

Do you mean the pre-made stainless brake lines from Classic Tubing? I bought them for the rear axle. The first set was so far out of whack that there was no possible way they could have been made to work. I sent them back and they made a new set. The second set was still pretty bad, but the lengths were close enough that it was possible to use them (with a lot of re-bending). I won't use them again. For a lot less money you can get a 25-foot length of Cunifer (copper-nickel alloy) brake line from Amazon, as well as lengths of coil spring gravel shield, and make up your own. The Cunifer is much easier to shape and to flare than plain steel brake line, and as resistant to corrosion as stainless steel.

Technically, it's illegal. Look again at the cutaway photos I posted. If there's brake fluid coming out of the port for the warning light switch, that means one or both of the O-rings for the shuttle valve has failed. Replace the proportioning valve.

Understood. But shims adjust caster, and caster generally doesn't create uneven tire wear. That's usually cause by camber and/or toe-in.

I don't understand this statement at all. The adjustment for caster is to shim the lower control arms. If there's enough range of adjustment in the rear pockets (which is where the shims go), that IS the "fix." If shims can bring the caster within spec -- what needs to be "corrected"?

Do they know how to bleed the rear bypass circuit? If they don't follow the procedure, they'll never get a solid peddle.

Caster is not "in" or "out." Caster is what used to be called kingpin inclination in the old days. It's the forward or backward tilt of the vertical axis between the upper and lower ball joints. If it changed after the curb incident, something got mildly tweaked. Shims move the lower control arms (and thus the lower ball joint) forward or back, which is what adjusts the caster angle.

A "cat delete" is a length of straight pipe. On the 4.0L MJs, the cat has a 2-1/2" inlet with a square, 4-bolt flange, and a 2-1/4" outlet. So to make up a cat delete you'll need a flange, a length of 2-1/2" straight pipe, and a 2-1/2" to 2-1/4" reducer. Whether you buy a cat or do a cat delete, you'll need a flange gasket.

I'm referring to the second photo. I believe the first photo is a side marker light socket, not a parking light socket. I don't know what goes bad, I just know they go bad.

You need to replace the parking light sockets. The grounds have gone bad, and they're trying to find a ground path back through the light circuit. Once you turn on the lights, that path is no longer available. This issue has been discussed and diagnosed many, many times.

Paint.

When you replaced the u-joints in the driveshaft, did you mark the shaft to replace it in the same orientation it was originally? If not, drop the driveshaft, rotate it 180 degrees, then reinstall it.

There's often a tag on the front axle with the gear ratio. Even without the tag, a 2.5L with a 5-speed is almost certainly going to have 4.10 gears. Your tires calculate out to a diameter of 31.65", which is (as ghet has noted) the metric equivalent of a nominal 32-inch tire. Even with a 4.0L engine, most folks want at least 4.10 gears with that size tire.

These images may help explain how the MJ rear brake emergency bypass circuit works. Normal operation: Bypass operation:

Probably not. The warning light comes on when you open a front bleeder to simulate a front brake failure, and it usually stays on throughout the rest of the bleeding procedure. Once you have finished bleeding, you have to stomp on the brake peddle a couple/few times to reset the shuttle valve and turn off the light.

No matter how many times this is repeated -- people still don't want to believe it.