Eagle

Neither is a Comanche body with a Chevy engine in it.

How many miles on the engine? What oil do you run and what's your oil pressure at idle and at 60 MPH?

The VIN should be on a plate on the dashboard, in front of the driver. IMHO it doesn't matter. The engine is trashed, and the tranny is gone. So start over -- pull a complete engine/tranny/transfer case out of something and plug it in. If a CPS is the only issue, last I knew (which was a few years ago) Hesco offered a kit to mount the CPS on the front of the engine and read the signal off a spacial vibration damper. Or -- just buy an electronic distributor, run a carburetor, and forget ever having to change a CPS ever again. A J20 was a heavy-duty truck. If I had one that needed an engine, I'd look seriously at an AMC 360, 390, or 401.

I had the same thought -- not about a brake sticking (good thought, BTW!), but just that a locked locker shouldn't pull when going straight down a highway. A locked axle is only an issue going around corners, when the inside wheel doesn't travel as far as the outside wheel.

Are you certain it's in 2WD?

Not a 2.5L. My '88 4.0L MJ had a YJ tranny and transfer case in it when I bought it. Whoever did the swap was a butcher, because he just chopped out a huge section of the floor pan/transmission tunnel to get the Wrangler t-case shifter (which in the YJ was totally different from the XJ and MJ) to "fit." It runs okay -- I wheeled it like that for several years, but doing something to replace the t-case shifter and repair the floor is on my list of future projects. Remember the 2.5L uses a smaller bell housing, flywheel, and clutch (or flex plate and torque converter). Anything considered for a swap has to come from a 2.5L Wrangler, unless you want to go looking for adapters.

Good news. Thanks for the update. How do you like the 3.4 compared to the 2.8?

Basically, this is correct. It should be obvious that AMC would not have bothered coming up with a separate, smaller tank if they could have used one tank for both bodies. If you're stuck with a LWB tank and a SWB truck, you just have to experiment and see if you can find some way to shoehorn it in there. My guess it that you won't be able to do it.

Correct. Just remove the electronic sender and install the mechanical sender. Keep in mind that the 4WD speedo sender goes in the transfer case, so you may need a longer speedo cable.

IIRC, ZJ links are longer than XJ/MJ links

Of course, That's why adjustable lowers are adjustable. Didn't realize you had them.

How is indexing the distributor going to increase the output of the CPS by a factor of ten? And, if it ran fine one day but wouldn't start the next day -- how would the distributor have gotten out of index? Alright, since you asked- IIRC, in the other thread he had fuel and SPARK. Secondly, you are assuming that the .05 reading is correct, I am not. Thirdly, Second CPS...........I'd be looking around at other things. That said, he likely bought a POS Autozone CPS, I have made comments about OEM, Mopar, Renix..........most of you prefer the $16 store brand junk. So, it's possible the he possesses two dead CPSs. Lastly, it will literally take two to thee minutes to turn the crank to TDC and pull the dist cap to see if you are anywhere near #1. So, why not? Pulling the cap to verify distributor pointing at #1 is not the same thing as indexing the distributor, which requires cutting a window in the side of a spare distributor cap and adjusting the clearance between the rotor tip and the contact in the distributor. Indexing is NOT a five minute job, and is very rarely indicated. Sure, by all means verify that the distributor hasn't jumped -- but if he says he tested the CPS and read .05 volts, why would you assume that he's wrong?

You mean "adjust the caster." Don't go cutting anything. Caster is adjusted on the MJ by adding or removing shims in the pocket where the back end of the lower control arms attach to the chassis. If there are no shims to remove on the left, you can add a shim or two on the right.

If you can find the bellhousing, torque converter, and other dedicated parts, you can convert to an AW4.

Before spending money on offset ball joints, try just rotating the tires, and see if that makes a difference.

It was within spec before, and the new alignment put it out of spec. Camber set-to is zero, with a range of +1/2 to -3/4 allowed. Caster set-to is 6 degrees, with 5 to 9 allowed. In general, more caster is better for resisting death wobble, as long as you don't exceed the front driveshaft u-joint operating angles. So the right side camber went from -.67 (in-spec) to -.78 (out-of-spec). In addition, the difference in camber from left to right increased. Camber isn't adjustable, and from the numbers the tech didn't touch the caster, so all he really did was adjust toe-in. So how did he take the camber (which, again, is not adjustable) from in-spec to out-of-spec? And how did he change the rear axle readings? Did he even touch the rear axle? How could he possibly have changed the toe-in for the REAR axle? The numbers don't make sense.

How is indexing the distributor going to increase the output of the CPS by a factor of ten? And, if it ran fine one day but wouldn't start the next day -- how would the distributor have gotten out of index?

Correct -- the secret is the 5-pound Ford carburetor adjusting tool. ;)

That's not a drain hole -- that's the fill hole. With the truck on a level floor, fill until the fluid level reaches the bottom of the hole. Remove the diff cover to drain.

What kit? Your post doesn't include a link or a photo, or even a URL.

You don't have a choice. The front half of the MJ is, as has already been commented, a unibody. Either you weld in a new right front frame "ear," or you scrap the truck and start looking for another one. The replacement front clip can come from a Cherokee.

:doh: Sorry. Yes, that's what I used for a 4" lift.

'94 YJ Wrangler

Can't help you. I just make 'em up as I go.

What information are you looking for?