pingpong

Like Jeff said.. in a non SYE application the output of the t-case and the pinion angle should be kept the same. When doing it with a SYE you point the pinion at the t-case. As Pete and many others have pointed out U-joints get phased( worked in at an angle) and when you change their working angle they cause vibrations. Most ppl automatically assume that there vibes are caused by driveshaft angle. Most ppl install larger tires at the same time as the lift... they develop vibes.. so they assume it is driveshafts.. from MY experience it often is improperly balanced tires.

Not even close. The xj tank is one smaller. The skid plates mount totally differently as well

His reaction was priceless :brows: Thats is why I don't let other ppl do my welding... way to much to risk.

Sometimes you have to do what you gotta do... Ask jeff about stripping the ford :brows:

Glad to see your back. What kinda treasures did you find?

I have a very similar design on my exo.. guess it is time to add some expanded metal to the top :nuts: That looks like it was kinda close

Wonder where you got that idea ;) Sweet rig man... I guess you could also change your rear spring mounting locations to re-use your XJ stuff, personally the MJ leaves flex better, and with a 2" drop shackle from a chevy (gives a 2" shackle lift) you should be able to dial in the front. IF it is to high in the rear.. try using a stock xj shackle... there are a million ways to make it work :brows:

I wish I would have never wasted the money building my old d30 or puttin in an 8.8. I wish when I had the "extra" income I would have built my junk on 1 tons to start with.... now that money is tighter.. I don't have the extra to drop on all the goodies.. thats why my build is taking forever

MOst center section are cast steel.... so welding to them is tricky.... nothing a lil preheating anf hi nickle rod couldnt take care of. There are some really nice aftermarket truss kits out there... I think I am going to copy one if I ever get back in my garage for more then an hour or so

I thought he was up there last weekend.....

Just wanted to ask you when you coming by so we can finish your truck off :D BTW my beer supply is low ;)

I tried giving my factory lWB skid away... and no one wnated it a few yrs back :nuts: As for the factory t-case skid... they are tough as nails... I can't tell you how many times Pong has been supported by that thin pice of metal. I agree the front skid is crap... it hurts your approach angle.. and makes a great spot to split your skull

There are a few companies offering surplus military 14 bolts for 500 but they include 4.56's and Detriot lockers.. I have even seen them for 700 with a disc brake conversion on them. Now if you are using that ratio, yeahs they are kinda worth it

Those are so true.. Ask Jeff how things burn on an old ford :oops:

Front or rear coils.. I think the fronts might be close

Semi Floating Isnt as strong as FF. That being said.. if it is an early semi floting with 5.5x5 bolt patter real easy to make it work. Other wise I would hold out for a full floating in the 4.10 variety.

I know there are tons of pics of cracked XJ and MJ frames out there.. BUT I HAVE not experienced this.. and I have beat the snot out of just about every XJ and MJ I have owned. Granted most of the rigs I have owned have been relatively rust free.. and all of them the rockers were intact, and never wrecked.

I have been running the RE HD setup on Pong, and Casper. No complaints. I have the RE 1600 on the smurf... no issues. If you are going to wheel and lift higher then 4" or max flex.. the RE HD setup is the only way to go.. well worth the money

I ran Pong on 35 Bfg M/T's for a while.... I had the yukon alloy shafts and a lockright. I broke a lockright when I was on 33's... shattered the inner race on Guard Rail in Tellico :oops: Then when I was at PAP 2 yrs later broke of a inner short shaft in the splines :cry: on day one on the first trail of the day :oops: Both time the vendors and the companies stood behind their products, and replaced them. Of course this doesn't help you when you are broke on the trail.. and having to put your crap back together. Alloy USA axles are suppose to be stronger then the Yukon Alloys... any of the lunch box lockers are good, but I haven't heard of any of the local wheelers breaking an Aussie locker. I know I broke a lock right.. and I know a person who has had trouble with an EZ locker My suggestions when it comes to the D30, is not to waste your money.. A D44 can be found and be built for around the same money. That being said... if you insist on keeping it... RE-weld all your mounts.. add LCA skids, and reinforce your upper mount on the passenger side.. plate the open end, and add gussets to the sides. It can't hurt if you gusset the upper side of the tubes either

If you disconnect everything attatched to the axle ( shocks, swaybars, and brakelines) There is only 2 things preventing you from swinging the axle down... One is the trac bar... the other is the driveshaft. I almost never use my coils compressor... tall jack stands (12 ton northern specials) and my hi-lift to pull springs.... Jack the truck up till the coils unseat.. support with stands and go to work

I say do Gull wing doors :nuts:

Running with no rear shocks on the road makes for an interesting ride :brows: Especially when you factor in my rig was/is lincoln locked :eek: I DON't recomend trying that again ;)

I know I am always preaching do it right :nuts: But you can redrill the center bolt hole over on a XJ d35 and bolt it in :eek: I did it back when Pong had a D35 in the rear :oops: (before the 8.8, and its current build). As for 4.10's being a bad DD gear... depends on what/ how far your drive, and what your ultimate goal is for said rig. 3.07's suck with anything but stock tires... 3.55's are all right if you stay close to stock height... 4.10's are great with a 4 banger and stock tires... as pointed out good with up to 32's on a manual and 33's with an auto. To me 4.10's are the way to go if your rig ever see any kinda trail.

Well you know I would never support cutting up a clean rig :shake: Once you start cutting it gets easier :brows: The only problem is once it starts it don't stop... and legality of driving a truggy on the street plus the cost isn't worth it unless you have a tow rig :D then cut away In my most rednenck voice " DAMN boys this is gonna be fun to watch"

I guess you could take one of Currie's antirock sway bars and modify it to work on the rear of an MJ... they do offer custom widths, and length arms.. just they are real expensive