pingpong

I am in my mid thirties... and I am trying to think back.. and I am almost positive for the lat 10-15 yrs diesel being more expensive... but I could be wrong. The other down side to a diesel is the fact that they are so much higher in intial buy in price. All that being said... my next tow rig will be a diesel :D

I was going to guess it was an early 70's version.. but late 60's sound right as well. Next time you come down I can show you what a Craftsman torch set looks like from the 70's. I need to have it reconditioned.. but its still cool. BTW Sorry for your loss man... and all the stress it is putting on you and the wife

I have had my engine lift for about 10 yrs now.. I couldnt dream of wrenching life with out one... just wish it was the fold up kind. It is truly an old school one.. I bought it used, but then was when quality tools were expensive.

Thats awesome... Now finding a front d60 is harder... My advice is find one as complete as possible and in good shape. Shipping on them can be right expensive. Like I said look for a complete rig.. that is where the deals are to be had

Damn that gives me an idea for some of the spare parts I have laying around.... I wonder if the wifey will notice :nuts:

Too bad you are so far away.. there are like 4 or 5 (all I can think of off the top of my head) ppl with benders in my area... but I am way far away from you

I have the Protools 105. I bought this one cause Ihave a few friends who have the same model.. just with different die sizes and different CLR's. I am getting ready to convert mine to air over hydraulic and build my own protable stand/table for it, using the long ram from a engine lift. I strongly suggest looking into it alot... there are a bunch of different benders out there. Also suggest buying some bending software.. after all DOM and HREW isnt cheap

Transfer case have a bias built into them.. just cause you are in 4wd doesnt mean both axles are seeing the same bias. What it appears to have happened is some kinda of torsional stress.... more then likely cause by fatigue. I think lack of trany fluid or.. popped into gear with too much right foot.

I have done it both ways :oops: As eagle has pointed out the risk is not worth the benefit. If by some unlucky chance you have an accident and you kill/serously injure/injure someone the lawyers will have a field day on you for not having proper safety equipment. IF you are involved in an accident in a "PROPERLY" lifted vehicle, you have a chance of keeping some of your worldy belongings.... if not... well just bend over and take it like a man.

If you move the shackle up.. I would remove the frame behind the new shackle mount and stiffen it up with some 3/16 plate. Maybe even experiment and make mutiple spots at different hieghts (1/2" os so apart) so you can fine tune the setup.

I kinda like it :oops: I was into lowriders back in the day. I hate to tell him that top is going to leak if it all ready doesn't. I had one on my s-10 :roll: The 2.8 is an OKengine if it is the later FI version. I had one, and it lasted 240000 before the guy I sold it to took it off the orad cause the steering needed more work then it was worth. The early 2.8's were plagued with all kinda problems,from vacum leaks to rear seals. The later ones are known for blowing head gaskets.

Its ok... .I have been called worse :eek:

It sits on top of the copil sandwiched in between the coil tower and the coil... basically gravity holds it there

Yeah thats a sweet rig. Side not.. I m got a screwed up copy of JP this month.. missing about 20 pages.. kinda pissing me off

The American ppl as a whole have never really adopted the diesel family for several reason. Mostly the bad performance when some automakers tried to intorduce them in the late 70's and early 80's. Also diesel up till recently was always more then gas... now the roles have changed. The other down side has always been they are loud... blow black smoke and just never caught on.

LIke Rok said support vehicle on jack stands Remove wheels unbolt shocks remove brake calipers (unless you want to undo the brake lines) UNbolt sway bar end links. Unbolt spring retaining clip onthe axle This should drop your axle low enough that you can pull the spring without using a compressor. That is if you have tall enough jack stands. If doing it with out a spring compressor I strongly sugest having a floor jack supporting the axle befor you unbolt all the above said parts as it will be hard to do so afterwards. Also it will be needed to hook up all the parts you removed Disclaimer.... I have done it this way before... I make no representation that this is the proper way to do it... If you get hurt I am not liable

How many miles are on the motor... has the motor been abused. I built a Pontiac motor back in the late 90's and it had the problem with fuel in the oil.. mostly cause I had way to big of a carb on it.. as well as the rings not being seated properly after a rebuild. Changed carb... new plugs.. gas smell gone. Things to check... Compression Then do a compresion leak down test (this will tell you where you are losing pressure.) THen if you have an acceptable leakdown test Check your ignition components. Make sure each cylinder is firing If all of that stuff is acceptable.. its time to go over the motor with a fine tooth comb.. I mean check all your sensors, all your vacum tubing, and all that other junk. My money is on bad cylinder rings letting the gas leak by once the motor gets hot.. thus increasing tolerances

The probelem there would be getting the Nut strip in there. THey sell eld in bungs through many different vendors. I have found some that are just round threaded bushings. from a stock car place o pirate... auctually they have lots of stuff and the prices are decent

YOu must not have gusseted it for abuse.... thats the key to nuilding with thinner metal

I wouls go with 4 grade 8's on the bottom, and 2 on the side. When you weld in the weldnuts... reinforce the area with 3/16 to give you nutserts plenty to hold onto. I know a couple of ppl who tried the poly bushing and jj o each end.. they said the bushing would be hashed after a few rides Do lots of research and talk to ppl who have built rigs similar to yours

Thanks jeff.. What size did you get? I need to go buy some 6x3/16 flat. There might be a small run of these available. I might be able to get them done professionally, or I might just make a few... not sure.. depends on what the quote is from the fab shop. I just have to make sure the drawings are right

I am doing the Jeds Machinging doubler.... as a matter of fact.. my stuff is half assembled in the garage :D I need to pulll my existing drivetrain.. so I can start mocking stuff up. I might end up doing the box4 rocks on the Turd if I keep that rig.... first I need to get a cage in that... and swap out the POS puke goat it has in it

Thats cool as hell that he did it with an AMC product. I am sure he spent way to much building that motor to run that way. AMC motors have notoriuos oiling problems. He probrably could have built a chevy or ford for half the money and not used as much juice and got the same power. Still Kicks @$$

can't hide money ;)

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/ ... 8962c3534c ;) I was only going by the Book Randy's put out. so 5.38's wil do me fine :D BTW I am doing a doubler in Pong np203 to d300 :nuts: might even put a 4 to 1 in the d300... doubt it though.. 32 spline out puts front and rear are all ready a must ;) I might get my crap done eventually