pingpong

I personally think the new power wagons rock excpet for the price tag, and no diesel option :cry: I think the ford super duty's are way cool.. just wish their diesels had a better reputation (newer ones that is). As for the Rubicon.. I wish they were priced more affordably... close to 30k for a jeep is a lil steep if you ask me.

Yeah I forgot about them having to regrease that intermediate shaft. That was another 2 trip fix. Now it seems to be doing ok.. no more clunking when turning.

Wel this is kinda a trick question. Yes it can be made to work with the drivers side drop. I would look on Pirate and do a search on d300 flip kits. Depending on what spline count output you have on your tranny.. this might not be the best swap as it is cost prohibitive to do a 21 spline tranny. If you have a 23 spline one.. bascially all you need is a flip kit and a clocking ring.. or a passenger side axle :brows:

I like what you have done with it. Some pppl might not agree, but a slammed mini truck is sweet. What aye you going to do for a bed?

Well I just walked around my truck to take pics to document where the rust is. Well when I opened the hood there was 3 bolts under the hood up by the firewall with rust developing on them, and then I opened the passenger door, and the same bolt position on the drivers door that has rust.. it is developing on the passenger side :eek: ... well then I walked back to the tailgate.. and there are 2 more bolts with rust developing.. WTF. For the Other Chevy owners... is this a common problem? Or is this a problem with my truck alone? I don't think it makes a difference.. but m truck is a Long bed extended cab, nd the color is silver. When I buy my new truck.. if it is a Dodge.. it will be a manual. I have heard that the auto's don't hold up to a lot of towing.

Jeep has done what it thought was needed to stay competitive in the SUV market. Do I agree with their decision.. HELL NO, but sales drive what vehicles look like. Personally the new Grands don't do anything for me... The Libby... my mother in-law has one.. and while not my cup of tea.. she loves it. The Compass... i agree is a waste of production line. The wifey wants a Patriot... and for the price.. she might get one. I just have to see if there are any major recalls or issues with them

You say big deal about the surface rust... I would be OK with it.. if I drove it more. The vehicle spends 95% of its life siiting in my driveway. I shouldn't have to get a new/newer truck undercoated. I have 20 yr old jeeps sitting in my yard with less surface rust on them then my 05 truck. I test drove the New Tundra at the state fair.. they are nice.. but they only come in 1/2 ton variety. If they offered it in 3/4 ton or 1 ton... I would be shopping for one of them. From the research I have done so far... it looks like I will be going dodge 1 ton diesel. Ford just isn't inspiring confidience with their warranty issues, and the questionable gas mileage. Don't get me wrong Dodge has a few issues too, but not as many as the Ford, and definately not as many as the Chevy.

Well 2 yrs ago I bought a brand new 2005 Chevy 2500 HD. It had 19 miles on it at delivery. I was the happiest person that day. Fats forward a few months and my rig develops vibes at certain speeds when towing. I take it to the dealer. First time they rebalance the tires... this works and takes care of the vibes when not towing, but they are still there when towing. Well I take it back... and the Service manager tells me that it is cause my truck sits so much and the RADIAL tires are flat spotting. I call up Bridgestone... and they tell me what I all ready know.. Radials don't flat spot. So I go back a third time for this problem and the service manager tells me that I need to balance my trailer tires (HUH) and I need a weight distrubiting hitch. Next problem was wind noise, coming through the door. They fixed the problem by adjusting the doors. Well 3 months Later they had to do it again. Needless to say the problem keeps coming back, and I jeep geting them to fix it. Well my latest problem has been rust. Mind you this truck has NEVER been driven in the snow, and is only driven about 150 miles a month unless it has my trailer behind it. I have a bolt that holds the fender in the door truning rust color, and surface rust developing on the frame on the drivers side control arm. Well I went to the dealership, and through GM customer service, and their answer to me was they will replace the door bolt, but until I have rust though on the frame they will not replace the suspension component. Needless to say I was not very pleased with this answer. Just for the record my truck has less then 15,500 miles on it. So my only recourse as a consumer is to tell everyone I know about my GM experience. Also as soon as I can save up enough for a new downpayment this truck will be leaving my fleet of vehicles. NOW I know why GM is loosing market share to other makes.

Wish I could find one that cheap... I can allready tell you what I would do... Propane YJ leafs upfront... xj in the rear Yota axle's front and rear 33's or 35's LOts of DOM and five point harnesses :D and let the good times roll (literally)

here is my take on the whole spotter driver thing. As the driver you SHOULD know what your vehicle is capable of, and at anytime you can take your foot off of the skinny pedal, or turn the wheel anyway you feel comfortable. Also as a driver it is YOUR responsability to tell the spotter the line you want to take. AS a spotter it is your job to keep the rig on all 4's or as close as possible to it. There are a few ppl in the club I belong to.. who won't ever spot me again, cause they think that flopping or rolling ppl is funny. IN that clip... I think it was both driver and spotters fault. As for the cage failing... well most if not all companies have pretty good disclaimers... that cover them in 99% of the situations, but Lawyers can always find loopholes

cool idea.. but not the most efficient way to heat a building :brows: and heat in the garage... thats absurd :nuts:

Well I hope you feel better and keep doing good in your helath battle. I don't get on as much as I used to either... working 12 hour days is getting old, and like you.. I see many new faces, and many new topics everytime I get back on, problem with that is.. I don't have time to read them all, and skip many topics I could probrbaly have valuable input on

I can tell you why the yota axle is 400.. it is cause they don't make them anymore :eek: and it is what the market will bear. No worse then paying 800 and up for a d60. Toy's are cool especially considering what can be done with lil or no money to them. As for them being aholes.. well... I have run into just as many a-hole jeep owners, who think wheeling a MJ/XJ isnt a jeep cause it doesnt have a removable top, or think their crap is better cause they maxed out their credit cards building their junk. (rant off)

I might be able to help you with some 33x12.5 if I ever get around to stripping casper :cry: or i get to buy new tires for the Turd... thinking about going to 35's on it.. especially since I have a d44 for the rear ;) I would only have to install better shafts up front and call it good :nuts:

Do a search on Pirate... I know someone did this swap a while back... and remember reading how he "windowed" the trans for the CPS

I don't think they will.. but I am not sure.

Both 89's I owned had the big tank. I thought they were standard :oops:

I beleive the Rubi will have a better resale value if taken care of. The small price difference is worth the few upgrades. ISn't it amazing how expensive these things are

don't mean to be a smart@$$ here but yes, your welds look very good, I'm in a two year welding program so i'm starting to be able to see what welds are good and what aren't. I had no idea your could build your own drive shaft like that and make it work.. Just don't run them at highway speed unless you get them balanced.

Long bed MJ's have 24 gallon tanks :brows: The big thing is the way they nount. The XJ skids have four bolts down each side (at least the Skid row one i have does) and the MJ tank has a funky way of mounting with hangers on the inside, and bolts to the frame on the outside( which almost always strip out in the frame making it impossible to remove)

I ran them in just about all my GM based engines. Never had an issues with them. As far as how long they last... I had them in a blazer for 2yrs, one of my s-10's for 3 yrs... and a Pontiac motor for 4 yrs... so I guess they hold up ok

On the totaling of a vehilce after an accident. We are all at the insurance companies mercy. I had a 69 HD chopper back in the late 90's... I rebuilt it, and only had 1500 bucks in it, but when I went and purchased insurance, I bought a stated value policy. Well needless to say I dumped the bike (my fault) and did 4200 bucks worth of damage. Well the insurance company (Allstate) said they were going to total my scooter and pay me 2200. Well after much arguing and 3 months time frame ( I kept refusing to take their settlement offer) and threatening them with a lawyers cause they sold me a policy that had a 10K limit, they ultimately payed me. Of course I was promptly cancelled.

THe NADA value is set by what ppl should expect to pay at a dealer, not what private party sale are. anyways.. nice rig... with that many miles on it.. I wouldnt put no power adders to it... might make it go boom

I think they are different, but you can use a v-6 one in a v-8 but not the other way around. Has something to do with the v-6 one not being able to put out the same amount of spark. Anyways any coil that puts out over 40,000 volts is better then stock. Keep in mind that when upgrading coils(output voltage) it will increase the volts going across you plug wires and plugs. So upgrade your wires to atleast 8MM better yet 8.5mm and go with a better plug. I have always had good luck with Accel u-groove plugs in my GM engines. They also make decent custom fit wires.

Jeff, You should have told me... I have about 10 spicer 1310's sitting in my garage :eek: I got a decent price on a package deal.. so I bought a bunch at once. As for the Brute Force(advance auto crap) I have broken many of their joints.. to the point of where Advance stoppe honoring their warranty on them to me. They said " I was abusing them, or not installing them properly", SO i stopped buying from them all together, and went with a wheeler friendly parts supplier, who has stood by his warranty on everything I have tried to bring back. This just happens to be a NAPA. Also he gives me a decent discount cause of the volume of buisness I do with him :D