pingpong

I suppose you could accomplish this by using a GM HEI ignition off of a stright six.... some modding needed. Use some form of aftermarket intake, and carb. While not a swap I would do.. I could see the benefit, if as Eagle said you were In a third world location with no stores around

for 250 I would buy it.... and if worse came to worse.. replace the locker with an arb or something... you will still come ahead.

When I buy a vehicle.. I look at the over all mechanical condition plus add ons. This doeant mean I give him full price for the value of parts he has added, but more of what the parts are worth if I go to sell them. Reciepts for parts don't mean squat.. I have a set of RE adj uppers I bought a few yrs ago.. they have 4 runs on them and 1000 street mile.. I paid 125 new for them... now they sell for over 225... does that mean they are worth more then what I paid.. I will put it to you like this... I won't sell them for that :brows: Also you have to go with your gut.. and feel the guy out... if he is in a hurry to sell.. or he is just checking intrest

The bubbling of the paint would worry me a lil. That means the rust is coming from inside out.. which could mean it is way worse then it looks.

I get the opposite response... ppl always stop me and ask me if I want to buy their jeep. Most of the time I bite and ask what it is and how much... they either have no idea what they have.. or think cause I have a fleet of rigs I paid a lot for them :nuts: Most of the time they leave with a no sale situation.

Thats the way it is suppose to be done here in VA too, unless you buy the car for parts/salvage

I am going to speak from experience here. don't polish a turd. I had a d30 under pong with alloys (which broke in the splines.. not the ears) with the WJ knuckle by the time I added up how much I had in the axle I could have got a d60... which I ended up doing by selling said d30 to a TJ owner who wanted a "beefy" axle :nuts: Right now I have a D44 out of a 73 f100 that I am going to install on the turd. The truck it came out of was givn to me... so having to swap it over from drums to discs.. while a pita... is still cheaper then building a d30 with chromos and locker.. not top mention histeer. Look at buying a waggy front 44 or a 73-77 d44 out of a ford. Any ealier and the will be a closed knuckle d44. Not a bad thing but a pita if you break something.

MY tool boxes stay trashed. Now I am to the point.. I grab what I need when I start a project.. and the boxes/unneeded stuff stay put. Most of the time you only need a couple of different sizes, and maybe one or two other things. as for tool brands. Well here is my take.... I own some Mac, and Snap ON from when I worked at the body shop. Was great at the time to pay for tools on time, but now that I don't work there any more.. It is a real PITA to try and get a tool replaced. I own some Popular Mechanics stuff (used to be a wal mart brand life time replacement), love the finish and for the most part they are the only brand of tool that I havent broke every ratchet in. Also the finish is matte, and it is easy to see the numbers on them. I won a bunch of Craftsman junk. The reason why I call it junk is it breaks regularly. From ratchets, to sockets... yeah they have a lifetime guarantee.. but that does me no good when I need my tools to work. I own some AM Pro (advance Auto) So far no issues with their tools.. it breaks they replace it. I own a bunch of Nothern tool stuff, so far no issus with their stuff breaking When It comes to air tools I try to only buy IR... I know they are pricey.. but no issues.

The fuel surcharge don't sound right to me... I would have questioned it more... you basically paid shipping if you ask me. I wish I would have been on when you posted this. Persoanlly I think you should have went with a 220v welder, cause as pointed out you do a lot of fab work. AS I have pointed out before... WELDERS are like BOOBS.... BIGGER is ALWAYS better. Seriously know lots of ppl with this machine and all seem happy with it

My advice to anyone who buys/sells/trades/giveaway a vehicle is always to get a bill of sale. It doesnt have to be anythig fancy, just as long as you have the other person sign and date it. I strip a lot of vehicles, and the person who I get the vehicle from doesn't always have/or want to find a title to give me. As long as I get said vehicles for parts/salvage it doesnt matter. IN VA the down side to titling a vehicle in your name you don't plan on driving is, you pay sales tax, and fees you don't need to. YOu are also liable for the personal property tax for that year on the vehicle. don't sound too bad... it isnt if you own 1 or 2.. but if you own 5, its a couple of hundred a yr

Some of you are spot on when it comes to inviting strnagers to your house. I don't know about you, but I have a lot of money invested in my tools, and toys. For the most part I only deal with ppl I know, and If a stranger comes to my house (which is in the middle of now where), I make sure my pistol is in easy reach, and my dogs are out :brows:

Thats sucks man.... give me a shout some time today. Plans to strip Casper are progressing.. sold the front axle yesterday... so I might be pulling the tans a t-case sooner then later :eek: :offtopic:

Unfortunately the xj and mj rear are different.. and so are the way the bumpers mount. POng use to have a rear bumper with rock rails on it... but it didnt offer no tail light protection. Mostly cause I didnt awant anything sticking out past the body cause of the way I wheeled it back then.

it could also be a sign of your fuel pump starting to go bad.

POng and all the parts related to it could be had for 15 grand the smurf could be had for 2grand the turd could be had for 1500 casper could be had for 1200 the 90swb dd could be had for 2grand Everything comes with a 50/50 waranty...... if it break it you own both halves :brows: way I figure it... I could buy a buggy chassis and build it.. if everything sells :D

It seems the original seller saw a quick sale with guy number 2 and sold it to him... the other buyer bought it, knowing there was all ready another buyer who wanted it... raised the price 200 bucks from his purchase price. Or something could have broke on the rig... more then likely a stuck brake, or u-joint. The seller didnt have the heart to tell your friend that it broke.. other guy fixed it... thinking/knowing he could find another buyer for a 500 buck truck. Small consolation.. she did get her money back, you here so many times about ppl getting ripped off on deals like that. My advice is.. when ever you have a deal you can't pass up on craig's list or ebay.. jump on it, and pay in full, and get the title. I can't tell you how many titles I have in my name, but I make a point of registering the vehicle the same day I take delivery, that way sellers remorse can't come back and bite you. I know I have had times when selling stuff where mutiple ppl wanted to buy it, and I always would have to tell them bring cash if you want it, some ppl believe me.. others would come by and find said parts sold.

the reason whY I said it looks like there was a rust issue is look at the edges. Since swapping parts is not an option, It might be best to try and get a piece of frame section from a salvage yard or parts jeep. You are definately going to want to sleeve it, and use lots of spot welds, as well as some stitch welding when doing the repair. I persoanlly have bever seen a frame where it looks like it is cracked all the way around the frame. Some where on here, or on the net is a daigram of the MJ frame, with measurements (they are in metric), but this could give you a starting point to make plates to do the repair with out replacing that section of frame.

To me it looks like you had rust issues, a steering box plate will help prevent that, but... you had other issues before hand. I don't know how much money you got tied up in your rig.. if it was me.. I would find another body and transfer parts

I bought the 4.0 frame horns from the junk yard......they were definitely different. Any other suggestions out there? Jeff knows.. cause he picked the mounts up from my parts dept. For the fuel pump... MSD makes a pump that works great with the 4.0.. just install a fuel cell and call it good and run an inline pump.

The main advantage of any doubler is to have choices. sometimes you need speed and rpm's (mud/sand) to make it through other times you want your tires to barely turn( rock crawling). That being said.. if I was looking at doing the 231 doubler the box for rocks is the ticket... Mad rooster was the first setup out there, but it is super pricey. If you are deciding to do this on a price choice.. don't forget to factor in the cost of adapting a shifter for the second t-case... I believe you can use your existing mounting setup for the range box. Also keep in mind you will need to build some sort of t-case support/ belly skid. NOvak makes a t-case shifter for wranglers that is reasonable and doesn't require the use of the body as a pivot point. On my rig I went with a doubler, but since I am running a chevy drivetrain, I went with a np203/d300. The advantage of this setup for me was t-cases were free :D and I have the ability to run a twin stick, and upgrade the outputs to 32 spline :brows: and if I find that my gear choices aren't low enough, I can install a 4 to 1 kit in the d300 :nuts: My doubler setup weighs with adapters well over 100LBS so if this is a factor don't even think of it The np231/d300 doubler is stupid expensive by the time you factor in the cost of the cases (unless you get a deal like me), the cost of the doubler, and flip kit... then there is still shifters, and x-members to think of.

I shall try the IAc test.. once I get a fffew more winks of sleeps

I know they are different, but they are based on the same thing, and a good machine shop can make it work.. if you wanted to spend the money

YOu would have to ask... if not try ebay.. every now and then you hear of ppl getting mopar performance cams and stuff

is there any way to test the IAC? Yes it is a tbi setup. TJ do you have a fuel pump.. or a spare IAC.. if you have a spare IAC I will try that :brows:

We have some Hyster fork trucks at work with the 4BT in them... they have reached their max usable hours.. so they will be coming up for auction.... I hope I can get one