pingpong

I had some 31x12.5 x-terrinas on 10" wide rims and they rubbed on a 4" lift :eek: Rubbed so bad that I promptly sold them. (this was on an unfinished project MJ). As for the swaybar :roll: What they said x10. I ran w/o right before I took Pong offroad for good, and I didnt like they way it made me feel, especially over 20mph :oops:

Nice :D Wheelbase rocks, especially on hill climbs :brows: But it does suck on sharp turns though :nuts:

Well I picked up a tongue box for my trailer, as well as some hood handles :D Drank lots of beer too :cheers: Also getting ready for Paragon, and everyone knows the rules.... No MAJOR changes before a run :nuts: As for moving my welder around, I found that an el cheapo hand cart works well for that :brows:

back glass, or zip tied to the tail gate handle

I finally found the leak in my rig :D But I was unable to cure it :eek: I think it had something to do with no doors or back glass :nanner:

I know where a nice running J-truck is reasonable. Problem is... it has a few rust spots, and there is almost no replacement panles that are cheap available. That means if I buy it... It would end up being chopped up and made into another trail rig :brows:

Just look at the Mazda rotary engines, I know they are different then what you posted, but all the same

Man :eek: I have never broken a shock that bad :huh???: I am truly impressed

What do you mean.. " I drive like I got a horshoe up my @$$" :dunno: I drive it like it is stolen or borrowed :banana: 35 would be fine in most situations, except for the fact that all the guys I trail ride with are running 38's and larger :huh???: So I catch a lot of grief for being the "lil guy" :roll: But also my wheeling style is make it or break it method :evil: BTW I don't have the constant urge to go bigger, I just want to be th biggest :deal:

How about an east coast ride to Tellico or Paragon :smart: If you scared say your scared :nanner:

ARB makes top quality work, problem is it is heavy and reaaly BIG, which equals more in shipping. I think the shipping on my FBW was around 60 bucks, where as the cheapest I could get an ARB shipped was a lil over 100. Patrick

Nice... I take it your output is a 23 spline then. Mine is a 21 spline which means I would need a special adapter to run the D300. I am kinda in limbo on this swap now, as trail riding season has started, and you know how that works ;) Have you thought about doing dual cable shifters. This is what I thought about using, seemed a lil easier to work with. There was a write-up in Crawl Magazine about a YJ with dual cases, but the point I am making is he used cable shifters for everything.

I have never dealt with any "real lift" lift companies. I called around looking for a 5" lift about 3 yrs ago, and the only company that offered one for the MJ was RE, and their kit was the same as the XJ kit, but with a set of spring perches for the same price :shake: Then I found a wrecked XJ with Drop brackets, and bent Control arms. :eek: Everyone thought I was smoking crap :chillin: cause I was going to rn the Drop brackets with stock arms :nuts: well after about 6 HARD runs I bent a LCA :evil: Then I decided that 1/8 plate welded to the bottom was the answer :smart: and it was ;) till I went to Long arms :eek: This is when things got rough.. :mad: No one installed a LA kit on a MJ yet :roll: So I went with the cheapest kit I could find that I thought would work :idea: It did, with minor mods. DC I am not picking on you, or anyone else who had to learn on their own, but it does pay to learn by others mistakes. :cheers: To me the best bang for the buck when it comes to a MJ lift over 5.5" of lift would have to be a hybrid kit of RE parts and custom Leaf springs. By no means would this be a cheap option, and your lift would be worth more then the truck, but it would be worth driving.

You can check out my webshots page for some pics of Terra's LA's which uses a parallel 4 link system. It has its good points and bad. I plan on using the same tye of suspension just with difernet joints and beffier arms when I swap my 60's in

Dirty you know I agree with you 90% of the time, but this time I can't :nuts: I swapped in a setr of the yukon alloys and knock on wood (my head) I have yet to break any front axle parts since. Before then I was snapping at least one shaft a w/e when I went wheeling. You all have seen video of how I treat my rig, you be the judge if the alloys were a good choice. As for the difficulty of swapping in a D44. First you have to decide how big do you want to go :deal: Then decide on how you wheel your ig, and if you plan on upgrading engine or t-case in the future. If you plan on going bigger then a 36x12.5 on steel rims, I would think at least alloy axles in the D44, If you want to go bigger, spend the money on a D60 upfront. the cost difference between building a d60 and a d44 is miniumal, when you figure in gears swaps and suspension, and steering mods. Keep in mind that unless you have the front rotors drilled you wil need at least some kinda wheel adapter or new rims. It can get real expensive once you figure in everything you need. Currently just in axle and rims I am at over 500, and I still need to spend 2000 on gears and lockers, another 800 on alloys, and thats not including tires at 340 a piece :eek: Like I said it can snow ball and get real expensive. I got my fron and rear 60 at a steal, normally a front 60 or 44 goes anywhere from 300 and up depending on how complete they are.

Yeah its number 4. That means everyione who reads JP magazine think they have something worth some money :mad: That means less 100-500 buck ones for me to abuse :evil: You can find duece and a halfs in running condition for as lil as 1500. The key is to make sure that DRMO hasn't swapped in all junk parts to make it a complete truck. I drove one of these in the service. These things are pure beasts, but don't expect to hold any speed on any type of steep grade, especially when towing. Besides that they also have a hard time getting up to 55, let alone any faster. I think a new diesel and some higher gears in the axles or maybe a different trans would make it do better. Patrick

I think the one I had on my bumper were like 26".. I am not sure, but they were way long :brows: Also if the MJ is going to be wheeled it needs to be pretty thick :brows: cause they will take a beating on the trail. There is some good video of me when I had a bed on my rig, and I shaved a rock a lil with my bumper :evil:

I am trimmed as far as possible, and still rub on worn out 35 mud rovers :eek: I suppose I could bump stop the rig a lil better :deal: But they are over rated and cost money :evil: I plan on swapping in D60's with 42's :nanner: so I know I will have some rubbing issues, unless ;) I go with ful hydro steering and move the axle forward a lot more :D Back to your question. At least 5" and proper bumpstopping, and cut as much as you can. In otherwords cut your fenders to where they are even with you inner fenders, and loose the bed :banana:

I was unable to find any cage that was a direct weld in. :mad: The only thing I could find when I was searching was modified Toyota, and XJ cages, unless you go custom :eek: If you go custom like I did, expect to pay around 50-65 dollars an hour for labor plus supplies :brows: it is not a cheap propostition when you use the correct steel. Also plan on spending a few bucks on the tear out, unless you work with a cool shop.

As for getting what you pay for.. Rusty's price is right up there with RE, and TNT :nuts:

How come no one listens to me :deal: :dunno: I told everyone that crap many moons ago, when they asked why did you do it that way, or why did you chose those parts over this. :smart: Here is a clue :roll: ... When you go to buy a part, and you are not sure about weather or not it fits, just ask them if they have installed it on a MJ yet :brows: This is why I didn't buy the TNT kit, Rusty's kit, RE kit. I went low buck :D and it just so happens to work :banana:

I can't wait till I get a chance to go to Moab. I think I am going to have to take a month of of work, and a semi-trailer full of parts though :D

Yes but the TJ front gears won't work in it. also you need to use the non c-clip spider gears with non c-clip axles.

Nice looking fab work :cheers:

I thinhk that is Misfit's rig. Check out the links in my sig to find out waht happens when you skip the flatbed stage :brows: