pingpong

I don't care what you all say.. I am still convinced that the weak link upfront is the 260 u-joints :brows: I aslo think that when you get a bad 4340 shaft the weak link becomes it... Trust me.. I have a broken piece of one to prove it. The only advantage to running locking hubs on the D30, is that you have the ability to stop the front d/s from turning. This is only an advantage if you have a crazy amount of lift, or bad u-joint somewhere up front

Catatonc :roll: All i have to say is put the wacky weed down :eek: and back away slowly :brows: I think my wifey would have to go before my trail rig :nuts:

What bounty hunter posted is 100% correct. At least to my scientific research. Pulling my crap apart and doing my own counting

I have been running spidertrax spacers for 2 yrs with no issues at all. Just make sure you use lock-titie and torque them to spec. A lil advice to those doing this swap, weld your tubes to your housing. If you don't have the tools or the skills pay some one to do it. Also carry spare companion flanges and bolts. The bolts are metric equivalent of grade 8, and can get rock rashed.

I ran the DB's with stock upper and lower arms for over a yr. Worked great till I decided that I wanted long arms

LOw pinion. It means the pinion is below the centerline of the axle.

NOPE. The vacum on the tailshaft housing needs to be changed over or just plugged. won't make a difference if the t-case works or not. The shifting is still done by the t-case shifter.

:huh???: :dunno: :deal: :thwak: :dunno:

All that plus it is narrower. Some ppl say they are running theirs with no spacers, but I don't see how. As mine were pretty close when I had the stock axle under it, let alone when I swapped My 8.8 in. When you go t do this swap, get the u-bolts and plates from the donor vehicle. The companion flange also likes to break, so make sure you buy a spare. Blue Torch Fab makes a hella nice diff cover. made out of 1/4 plate really takes a beating. My choice for gearing would be a 4.10 equipped axle, that was open, not the lsd one. The LSd 8.8 requires replacement of the carrier to install a lunch box locker. Also the LSd is not very useful if you do extreme trails, and if you are like me you will end up welding the spiders so you can get some traction

TJ axles are lp axles, which might cause D/S vibes with larger lifts.

Keep in mind all the exo or interior cage won't make a difference if you doont have good seats and 4 point, if not 5 point harnesses. You alos forgot the endo, or back flip in your equations of types of rolls

http://www.mpjai.com/album/thumbnails.php?album=28 http://www.flickr.com/photos/32148179@N ... 1322/show/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/42684304@N ... 135126692/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/70056651@N ... 135133342/ Here are some video clips from the bigger group, I ended up wheeling with the small tire group http://mpjai.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=4899

I'd like just some comanche club stickers to stick on my tubes. My only empty place is my hood, and I want to put a huge flaming skull on it

Theres a whole lot more to building a stroker then just having the interanls. :brows: I personally think the idea is just :nuts: . You can get more power and useable torque out of a 4.3 or a SBC, and it would be cheaper and easier to do. But back to your topic You are going to have to fill water jackets, in either the block or the head to make this work. also depending on how you do this you are going to have to have the crank machined on the ends. BTW just cause you can get the machine work for free doesn't mean they will know what they are doing :roll: Talk to XJowner over on http://mpjai.com/phpBB2/index.php he did this very thing you are talking about and he would have been better off swapping in a built 4.3 .

The only down side to the 8.25 axle beside only being marginally stronger then the d35 is the gearing only goes to 4.56 and you are limited on your choice of lockers :brows: To me the 8.8 is a far supperior swap then even a d44. The only advantage the d44 has over a 96 or newer 8.8 is gear selection. If you never plan on going deeper then 4.88 you are golden with a 8.8. Also with the 8.8 you get 31 spline axles, and disc brakes :D

OK WOW :eek: First of DOM is high, but it is down right strong, and my life is worth more then the coins I would have saved by using HREW. MY rock rail bars are 2x.250 DOM, the rest of the cage except for my 2 windshield bars are 1.75x.120, my 2 windshield bars are 1.5x.120. I tweaked one of my door bars at Paragon, but it is only tweaked, so I will run it like that until I decide on how to re-engeneer the part that bent. That labor rate was insane dude. I paid a flat fee for the design and build, catch was the shop had to provide everything. I also put a time constraint on the shop, that my rig be done in less then 60 days. MY front exo cage was cheap.... it came in at 1700. This included removing parts, fixing some of my steering issues as well as me just picking it up. Phase 2 was where things got pricey quick. we did the fuel sytem, brake system, and new seats. Then add new shocks, new u-bolts, and plates, and you can see how things can spiral into big bucks. Also keep in mind that this is cutom work... a lot of time went into the research and design of the cage. Also there are changes going to be made to mine, cause I am not 100% happy with the way it works. Needless to say you r rig is never done As for what kinda flop or rollover you are going to take :dunno: I can tell you I have all ready done 2 passenger side ones, and a drivers side one. I cam close to doing an endo at Paragon, and kinda close to doing a back flip :eek: Did my driving style, and the lines I took play a part :nanner: of course they did :nuts: I didnt build my truck to sit there and look pretty, I built it to be used and abused :brows: Future plans involve dovetailing the front, coilovers up front, and a traingulated 4 link in the rear, or maybe a 1/4 elliptical out back, not sure which one yet.

D35 are famous for bending tubes :brows: I bent 2 axles before I realized I wanted an 8.8 :D BTW carriers are cheap. I thin you can get them for the d30 for like 26 bucks, for the d35 just find some one who has grenaded it.. then you will be all right

There is a lot to be said for good customer service.... his reputation is that there isn't good customer service and that his products don't perform or last as long as they should. Moral of the story don't BUY FROM RUSTY'S Unless you want problems. CAn some one make this a sticky

Unfortunately no. I am not real big on taking pics when doing fab work.

Around where I live it 350-400 is the going price, but they seem to be going higher for some reason as of late.

It mostly depends on whether or not the supplier will honor the warranty. YUKON shafts are not warrantied if the u-joint casues the shaft to tear the ears, unless you buy the super joints, which are the same as a CTM but made by Randy's. My point of posting this was... I could have bashed Randy's for their shaft breaking, but insteada I used my superior personal skills and got them to replace it, cause the bashing weas coming if they did not honor their warranty on this one :brows:

Look at my exo design for some Ideas. I know it isn't exactly what you want, but it would be easy to modify for your rig. Keep in mind that once you start going bigger on tires, the chances of a roll over are more likely. Even a mild flop can put extreme forces on your rig. As for building you cage out of box tubing... I think that is a bad idea. Spend the coin on DOM. It will be a lil more upfront, but 10x stronger in the long run As for the d30 :roll: I am running an as built one as possible. and up till my past paragon run it held up great. Unfortunately it broke when I was 400 miles from home and on a 3 black trail and in the lead vehicle position :evil: Talk about blowing chunks :mad: Luckily I had a 260 spare short shaft with me :nanner: and I was able to wheel half a day on a 2 black trail before it let go :banana: then I was winch city from there on out. :offtopic: back on topic... since you all ready have a pretty stout front axle, I would buy the chromo's and slowly build up a HP60. Skip the lp 44 or the hp44. the only difference in building the d60 as compared to the d44's is initial cost :brows: My final thoughts are... what is taking you so long to turn this thing into a truggy and come wheeling with me :thwak: :nanner: Remember build it :D wheel it :evil: then break it :nanner: then repeat :nuts:

Well as a few of you know I broke a Yukon Moly shaft at Paragon :eek: After calling the shop I bought it from, they promptly called Randy's ring and pinion, and they promptly replaced it with no questions asked :brows: This is why I will do buisness with them again.

The rear is 3.55 and up where as the front break is 3.73 and higher.

Cabz, what did you find out when you called this guy? Are they Rock Krawlers coils, or are they rough country?