Geonovast

Yup, you can just switch them just fine. As for your odometer, simply switch the speedo itself. The plastic on the front is just screwed on, and the gauges are screwed to the back. Take both speedos out and put your current one in the new cluster. Only disadvantage to that is you don't get the tripometer that came with the full clusters. Unless, you already have one. I've never owned one like you have.

Nice upgrade if you have a stroker or planning on putting one in-otherwise not worth the money if you ask me.

If you take all the main caps out, you may get it out. (Make sure position and orientation are the same when you put them back in-they should be numbered) I suggest NOT using any sort of power tool whatsoever, one scratch and it's shot. I believe there's a tool specifically to remove/install that piece without pulling the crank. Only one I've done, the motor was on a stand, upside-down, and I was able to lift the crank up a bit to get it out.

Both my Craftsman sets came with a 7mm. Not all caliper bolts are those though... I've got regular 12mm hex heads on one side on my 88ish D30. Probably replacements...

I love the grill... you should leave it that way! Gives it some teeth. :brows:

I'm assuming you mean twisting play in the splines... yeah that would definitly cause a clicking. I believe you're going to need a new shaft. Not entirely sure, but there may be a rubber isolator in there.

CAD engaged or disengaged? With the shaft out, I'd crawl under and turn the front yoke on the T-case and see if the noise is coming from there. If your CAD is engaged(i.e. shimmed), the D.S. will be turning that shaft inside the T-case... with no DS that shaft probably won't move at all. All I can think of if there's no play in the DS :dunno:

Not if all he's missing is the tach. There were three clusters; Speedo, Tach, Volt, Oil Pressure, Temp and Gas Gauges. Speedo, Volt, Oil Pressure, Temp and Big Gas Gauges. Speedo, Big Gas Gauge, and idiot lights.

:thumbsup:

I do believe that seatbelts should be a choice, and that the enforcement of it now is a crock, however, my truck does not move without my seatbelt on. What exactly is your belt doing? You may be able to pull it apart and fix it.

Perhaps, but CV joints were used on 84-86 front shafts instead of the Double Cardan. They mounted to the T-case with a flange instead of a yoke.

For the record Double Cardan is not CV.. :smart: Unfortunatly I do not know how to change them... only done rear shaft joints and wheel joints.

The stock Renix exhaust manifold loves to crack near the back where the final tube meets.

From the doors forward, Comanches and Cherokees are identical, with a few minor exceptions. The year spread will make more of a difference. For example, the engine bay of an MJ and XJ will be identical if they're the same year and options. Front suspension for the XJ and MJ is the same, front clip is the same up to 97. Rear axles are the same, just different spring perch location and the shocks mount differently. I'd suggest browsing through this thread viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14213

XJ and MJ belts are different.

When I pulled the plates off my 88 D35 they were 14mms, which are close to 9/16. I couldn't remember if D44s were that way or if they were C-clip..

I'm assuming you have a D44 because of the metric ton package?

Hissing when you push the pedal in? Yeah, I'd bet it's leaking from the rear seal on the master.

I'd check the wiring on the ignition switch.

Nope, needed bumper to bumper. lol yeah, I probably could've been more specific..

Couldn't the drop pitman putting the draglink out of parrallellness with the trackbar cause something like that?

Those are a PITA. They seem like a good idea at first, but when the transmission is wobbling around on top of one of those there will plenty of unkind words. Get one of these. It makes it much easier. Willy I agree. I tried to use one of those once, but by the time you get the tranny on that and fanagle it under the truck, you might have well lifted the truck up, and dropped it down on top of the tranny sitting on blocks. Last time I did a tranny swap I pulled an AX-5/207 and put in an AX-5/231. Used a 3 ton jack and did it by myself. It wasn't that bad. Getting it out was actually worse than putting the new one in. Just jacked it up far enough to bolt the crossmember to the frame, got behind it, and shook and pushed. About 2 minutes of that and it slid right in. I think getting something to angle the motor back would be more beneficial than a giant monstrosity under the truck.

I changed a ballast resistor! :cheers:

Yeah... welding next to a gas tank... Just Wrong.

Last time I got pads they were $24 for all 4 and disks were 18 apiece. Just the Jack? Good Idea: Bad Idea: