Geonovast

I put some ruts in a loose dirt not-actually-parking-area back when I was still 2wd :rotfl2:

I thought it was too. I have a YJ Ax-15 in the shed, but unfortunatly no XJ/MJ ones. I do have an XJ 231 though. As for the weight of the T-case, it weights damn near as much as an Ax-15 without the bellhousing on it. A 242 will weight a little more than the 231.

It'll bolt right in. Regardless of the gear ratio, the housings are the same. And if it's from an MJ, the perches will be in the same place, so it will be a direct swap. Is it 4wd? If it is, you'll need the same ratio, unless you swap the front to match. And don't forget speedo gear if you change ratio.

No biggie. Believe me, I've seen much, much worse. I can't even understand what most people say on here.

Any 231 that's from an AX-15 will work, and I believe the AW4 ones from 90+ will be 23 spline. Yes, a 242 will be a direct bolt in, but remember you need the shifter and linkages from it too. IIRC, the 242 is a tad longer, but I don't remember how much. If you have a little too much slip now it should probably even it out. (Shaft I had cut for my 207 was about 1/2 shorter than I wanted, but when the 231 went in, it gave me the perfect amount of slip.

they look a little bigger than stock to me... :dunno: I mean front/back.

Your Tcase will be a 23 spline. ANY XJ/MJ 23 spline 231 should be a direct bolt in. The newer ones will not have the vacuum actuator, so you may have to do away with your CAD if you haven't already. YJ ones will bolt on, but I believe the shiftplates in them are reversed.

That has nothing to do with the transfercase. That's for the clutch assembly, on the front of the transmission, between the trans and the motor. If you're keeping your original transmission, you don't have to worry about any of that. But yes, the front bearing retainer on internal and external slaves is different. Externals stretch out to cover most of the transmission input shaft. internals are pretty much flush with the retainer plate. Ignore the toyota one and the early/late above them, as usual the people on JO don't know what they're talking about. Left is internal setup, middle is external. This is what you need to worry about for spline count.(pic is actually an AX-15, but close enough)

Are those tires different sizes?

Jeep Comanche Bicycle. Unfortunatly I don't think the Comanche models came in 2wd...

I don't know what he did, there are programs that let you create the entire thing. I use paint because it's got the pixel by pixel tools that my photoshop actually doesn't have, and I'm somewhat OCD on the continuity of them. So I edit down to the pixel. Program I use can be found here, and it's freeware. Oh, and sorry for the :hijack: Pete. :dunce:

That would be for the transmission input shaft. The 14 spline is for the clutch disk. Would a 98 AX-5 be a 21 or 23 spline?

What case are you looking for? I have a 231 from an 88 XJ 4.0 BA 10/5 21 spline short input I may be willing to part with.

That's awesome

Made each piece seperatly in mspaint, then for the connecting rod and rockers, some of the frames I had to rotate it in photochop. Then just save as gifs, and slap together with a gif animator. I've made several others, an older SOHC piston, V style one, overhead view of a shortblock V8... :typing: :clapping:

Atsroturf :thumbsup:

I used to keep a key in my wallet, but it liked to fall out and I was too lazy to secure in it there. My mom has a spare, so If I'm nearby she can come let me out. Otherwise I'll do what I did last time... Take the grill off, pop the hood latch, then directly hotwire the electric door lock. (Aftermarket, system doesn't work, but the actuator is still in the drivers side with wires doing into the engine bay.)

Got mine a little while ago, and gave one out right away. Brother expressed interest in learning more about his truck, and so I'm getting him to sign up an account here. Told him to browse around and he can learn quite a bit. Then I made this for him. Not completely accurate, but close enough.

Good point. I've seen people take an old socket that's the right diameter, and shave down the top to leave the 4 little pegs so they can remove it. Doing that's probably a lot cheaper than buying the specialty tool for it. And if you absolutely have to, you can still use the socket normally. :thumbsup:

The top of the shock, just above the nut has two sides flattened down so you can get an adjustable wrench on it. That's what I did, and it works well enough to at least break it loose. Or if all else fails, since new shocks usually come with new nuts, use the splitter.

Makes sense. If the vent is clogged, then the only place the pressure has to go is out the tailshaft seal.

My eyes didn't even see the 2.8... I saw 87/88 2. and assumed the rest was a 5. :dunno: :doh:

Why do you need a new one? If the collar itself is fine, I'd leave it where it is. Even if you get that out, getting the new one in isn't just a throw-in job. It has to be set at a certain point within 0.001".

The 2.5 isn't completely useless. If it's running properly it makes a good DD, and with good gearing it can carry some weight in the bed. Granted, I've never driven a TBI 2.5, but my MPFI 2.5 on 3.55 gears and 205/75/R15s will do 90 easy enough. On flatish ground I can even use 5th.