Geonovast

That's your ballast resistor, Almost all olderish Jeeps will have one. It's a resistor for the fuel pump, after startup it runs the power through there to make the pump spin a little slower, and therefore run quieter. You can either replace it, they're about $7-15 depending on where you get one, or just splice the wires together and bypass it. Oh, and it's porcelin.

I think he means he hasn't put it in the vehicle yet.

This is starting to get hard...

The sender is rather fragile, I'd check to make sure it didn't break off.

I don't think he was tooo set on a 99. I think he just wanted a later model one. After all, 94ish - 99 are all pretty much the same, aren't they? Or did they change brakes at some point.?

Wouldn't be the first one. I saw an 84 XJ once that had a bench in front, and I believe it was factory.

Wait, what? That wasn't a factory option. If you figure out how to get the camera to cooperate and take some pictures that would be awesome.

I was being ironical.. lol Don't worry about the motor blowing up. It's not revving dangerously fast at that speed unless you do, in fact, have 4.10s. You should also take into considersation, and I wish some people I know IRL would listen to me too, but; Lower RPMS does NOT always mean it's getting better mileage. If the motor's dogging at all, or doesn't quite have the torque to turn that much gear, it's actually going to get worse. But my recommendation still stands... If you find a good deal on a 4wd one, I'd say go for it. Even if you don't need the 4wd, the 2LO is still there, and if you do ever change your mind, it's there. Or if you ever sell it, you can bump the price up because the swap is half done already.

You can't just fit a T-case in. You have to have a 4wd transmission. As for the front axle, that's pretty straight forward. Take the 2wd one off and bolt the 4wd one on. All suspension mounts, etc. are the same. You will probably have to keep the 4wd calipers, so bleeding the brakes will be needed.

They hold stuff, like, a regular bucket?

If it is I have several shafts sitting around...

:agree:

BUT, if you get a good deal on a 4wd Ax-5, I would probably go with that, get a T-case in there, and run without a front shaft. Then the harder part of a 4wd swap is out of the way. :thumbsup: And if you get the linkages setup right away(which I would do with the trans already out), it'll give you a 2 LO option in case you need a little extra torque, say, pulling a Buick out of a ditch.

I have a good 2wd Ax-4... You may not want to do the swap unless you're re-gearing, however. Generally(but there's always exceptions), the AX-4 came with 3.55 axle gearing and the AX-5 came with 4.10 axle gearing. Ax-4 final drive= 3.55:1 Ax-5 final drive= 3.49:1 They did this so that in the final drive both setups would be running the same, but the Ax-5/4.10 setup would have a little better acceleration, and probably better city mileage. Granted, I do have a 2.5 with an AX-5/3.55 combo, and I rarely use 5th. Usually I'm doing at least 70, and nowhere near hills. I also have an MPFI motor, which if yours is stock it's TBI, and not quite as powerful. I put the AX-5 in because I converted to 4wd and it was pretty much free. In a nutshell, I wouldn't bother unless there's something wrong with your AX-4.

Throw a stick in it. :thumbsup:

The crossmember is the same. It is possible to convert a 2wd tranny to a 4wd one if you have the rear housing and output shaft, but if you have all those parts you might as well just rebuild a 4wd one. I would just find a complete 4wd tranny.

yep. with the new tires, one's planned already. i thought i'd get things done and do a 4 wheel on it (rather, have it done). 4 wheel? Nothing in the rear is adjustable alignment-wise.

I think he meant if the tranny and T-case will work with each other. If the spline counts are different, you won't even be able to bolt them together. If the input on the T-case is too short, then the outputs on the T-case won't move when you spin the input on the trans with it in any gear.

I have seats from a 2 door XJ, but I never use the forward tilt. However, I did learn that the 4-door XJ seats I was gonna get were almost 3 inches taller because they had the "rocking" feature. Good thing I went with the 2 door seats. Not always. One of my seats is a 2 door and one is a 4 door, they both sit higher, and the same.

What's the big deal with them tipping forward? My driver's is a 4door seat and my passenger is a 2 door seat and I rarely need to tip it forward. I just reach behind it. :dunno:

Good compression is 120-150 in each cylinder with an average of around 130.

What motor is in your truck? If you have a 4cylinder, throwing 6 cylinder springs in the front will give you about 1 1/2-2 inches of lift. Best way to do the back ~2 inches is definitly shackles.

:huh???:

I had a socket stuck to a hose clamp on my fuel filter for over a year. As far as I know, it's still on the clamp, but not on the truck since the clamp has been replaced. Luckily it was a cheapo socket and not one of my Craftsman ones. It's astounding that yours is still there. Were you able to get it off without much difficulty?

I looked through the DIY section and didn't see anything, and CB is waaay too short and "general" to use in the search function.. but is there any DIY writeups for installing these things? Also I've got a Midland LMR Model#70-1336B which is a police eddition CB. Is there anything different for installing these, or are they pretty much all the same?