Geonovast

I believe there are electrical differences between 86 and 88. You're probably going to need a mid 87-90 cluster.

I usually just pull plug wire off the coil. Been toying with the idea of installing fuel pump kill switches...

Most likely a front DS U-joint.

DO NOT use a slide hammer. My dad bought one and thought it was a miracle, he got lucky the first few times he used it. First time I used it on an allegedly "good" bearing, the center pulled right out, effectively ruining the hub. Was not happy being out $105 for a new hub, especially since I was already replacing the other side hub. I would definitely go with the socket & turning wheel trick. I'd make sure the other wheel is off the ground, however.

I didn't even get a response. :shake: Maybe he thinks you're ganging up on him like that guy on eBay who was charging an arm and a leg for an '88 because it was the "last year they made them"

Put a cover on the tank in the bed of the 4.0.

:hmm: That's funny right there. :rotf: Could not resist making a special rank for ya. :D I friggin love this place :banana:

:hmm:

:hmm:

EWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW :ack:

Nah just a personal preference. It can be done, but it's not easy. You obviously need the AC compressor and condensor, but there's a bunch of stuff behind the dash that needs to be swapped too. If you can find a complete donor vehicle, I'd say go for it, but otherwise, IMO, it's too much hassle.

AC sucks! Use it for OBA!

I meant the guy that posted the axle on his manche had an 7.25. I know my stepdad's 95 Dakota has an 8.25 6-lug.

That was a 7.25 IIRC :ack:

External bellhousing, bearing retainer, pivot arm, slave cylinder, correct length clutch line, and correct clutch kit. Any AX-15 94+ should be external, and some 93s will be too. And to answer two questions before they're asked; 1. NO, the BA 10/5 was never an external slave. 2. The AX-4/AX-5 external slave parts are NOT compatiable with an AX-15 (I have heard the slave itself is the same, but not 100% on that).

That looks pretty good. :thumbsup: umm. yuck. what on earth made you think that orange and blue go together? take it off...mark it black instead of blue, and you'll have a good looking truck I like it. :cheers:

The throwout bearing and internal slave cylinder are one piece, so if that's the case, (and how do you forget that thing?) then you're probably going to need a new one. Plus you wouldn't have any clutch fluid, because it would just bleed out every time you touched the pedal. I'd try to track down the pieces to convert to an external slave setup.

What kind of clutch problems? The master or slave could have been the culprit. The clutch disc and PP may be the same, but external and internal should be different. I'm also 99% sure the pukey internal slave and AX-15 internal are different.

Yeah you can throw the later shafts in, but you need to replace the seals on the passenger side. Someone on here has the part#.

It is a bit high, but may be worth it. I would TRIPLE check the ratio. Most 2.5/4 speed combos came with 3.55s.

Yeah I ended up going that route... everyone that had one wanted like $20-25. Bought 2 right away. Thought had crossed my mind... but that thing is there to protect the motor, so I think I'll leave it. I don't think this one broke because it was over-stressed, it was just a 10- year old piece of rubber. That's a good idea, let me know if they can and how much, I might want some too.

My 2.5 does it once in awhile, hasn't caused any problems, so I haven't really looked into it. Both my Renix 4.0s did it too.

Well, the washer is a Sears brand, and I called them, they have one at one of the locations right in Madison, but they want almost 20 bucks for it. Screw that, I see them online for like $2.50. Gonna try calling the hardware stores, just wanted to see where I could start looking.

Anyone know where I can get one of these without waiting for shipping?

Nope, only the R&P need to be set proffessionally, the spider gears you just pop in there.