Geonovast

You have a PM with the test.

Buy it anyway, and flip it for twice what you paid on eBay.

I think it's more ignorance. The people paying that much don't do their research... they don't shop around, and they don't know about places like CC. They think the vehicle is more rare than it actually is, so they just assume everything's going to be offensively expensive.

You shouldn't have any problems using the external slave. If you got everything from the 95, it should go in just fine. I converted my 91 2.5 to an external slave AX-5 from an 86, and I used a clutch master and line from an 88 BA 10/5. I picked up some brake line, and made my own section running from the rubber part to the slave. (older external AX-5s had the slave on the passenger side, I believe all external AX-15s are on the driver's) For some reason I'm thinking that the Renix and HO AX-15s have a different diameter input shaft tip for the pilot bushing. Wouldn't hurt to measure those first to make sure you don't need a new pilot bushing. You'll probably need a new speedometer cable. Good news is, however, that the entire sending unit out of your 2wd trans will go into the 231 just fine. You don't need to worry about the electronics, pop the electric sender out, put your cable one in, and sell off the electric one. Just go get a 4.0 4wd 5 speed cable either from a JY, brand new, or someone on here may have one. A cable from mid 87 - 90 should work perfectly. Just take your time and don't rush anything. The best part about an external slave, is you can detach the bellhousing from the transmission, and using a clutch alignment tool, you can bolt the bellhousing with all the clutch stuff up to the motor with the trans out of the truck, and test it to make sure everything's working. If you need more details on the test, I can give you step by step instructions.

I think he was asking if you wanted to sell it to him, and how much you'd want.. :shake:

The D300 is commonly used behind a 231 reduction unit that works as a doubler/flip kit.

For 6 inches, you need pretty much new everything. You'll need the coils, sway bar links, extended brake lines, UCAs and LCAs(Longarms would be much, much better) trackbar, shocks, etc. I hope to whatever god you may believe in that you don't plan on doing a 6 inch shackle lift. MJ shackles are long to begin with... and IIRC, 6 inches of shackle lift would make your new shackles about 14 inches longer than the stock ones. Breakage would ensue. You should be able to get about 5.5" in the back with an SOA lift. At that height, you need to do your research and make sure you have everything you need... and quality parts, not just 'what's cheap' Remember - you're putting your life in the quality of the parts you buy. Do it right or don't do it. On another note.. at 6 inches, you're going to need somewhat beefy tires so it doesn't look goofy. Chances are pretty good your current axle gearing isn't going to cut it.

I would also check to make sure the wheel bearings are in the right spot on the shafts. It's not likely... but one of those could be partially separated or sliding on the shaft.

4.0 and 2.5 2.5 86-90 4.0 87-90 84-85 2.5 was carbed 84-86 2.8 was carbed

:ack:

Amazing how the ones will almost no linguistic skills are the ones that can actually spell 'comanche'.

I'll take any MJ if it was free.

It will go in just fine. In 91 they extended it... not sure why. Both my 91s had the extended ones when I got them.

Yeah... but it's a CHROME piece of plastic. I hear some people really drool over that stuff.

Bed is lined up nicely with the cab, so it's not that. Don't know how, or when, it happened. Again, I've noticed it before but didn't think much of it. With the spacers, it's just so pronounced because the sidewall of the tire is now clearly beyond the flare. I assume the simple fix is to loosen the U-bolts and then jack it up and tap it over? This should not work because the spring packs have centering pins that locate themselves in a hole on the perches. Yeah, but essentially what I am saying is you should be able to "slide" the axle through the U-bolts. No, you shouldn't. The centering pin goes though the spring, and into the perch - which is welded to the axle. Even if you had a broken centering pin, it shouldn't allow side to side movement, just front/back. The U-bolt would contact the spring and stop the axle from moving.

Does it look like a factory switch? The the switch itself look like a showerhead, or the emblem above is?

My first MJ came with a VERY nice set of those when I got it. Had all 4 black center caps, and the wheels were completely rust free. They don't look too bad when they're not dinged up and rusted all to hell.

Absolutely not. The CAD simply disconnects the two halves of the passenger side axle shaft. All this is for is to make it so the front driveshaft does not turn while in 2wd. The handle for the transfercase is what determines if it's in 2wd or 4wd. The purpose of the CAD was to marginally improve fuel mileage. Personally, I'll take the unnoticeable change in MPGs to be sure the darn thing goes into 4wd when I want it to. And just for clarification.. Part Time 4wd (NP231 or NP207 in 84-86) locks the front and rear driveshafts together... making it so there can't be any difference in rotational speeds between the front and rear axles. This can only be used on road conditions that allow the tires to slip. Using it on dry pavement will result in something breaking. Full Time 4wd (NP242 or NP228/229 in 84-86) Allows for 4wd use on any road surface. The transfercase has internal mechanisms that allow small amounts of different rotational speeds while still powering both axles. No factory full time Jeep will even have a CAD, it will have the non-CAD D30 with a one piece passenger shaft. Failure of the CAD will result in the transfercase self-destructing. The non-CAD D30s became standard for XJ/MJs in 91, although you can still find them upwards of 93 (factory must've been using up parts)

AX-15.

Go ahead and throw up a WTB thread in the classified Wanted section. :thumbsup:

It's been said that the 27 spline 8.25 isn't much stronger than the 35... but that's really only in reference to the shafts. I've never heard of problems with the gears or carrier, and the 8.25 has a massive housing with extremely generous 3" axle tubes, which, IIRC, are actually bigger than the 44's tubes. The 29 spline versions are nearly as strong as a 44. 27 and 29 spline 8.25s are identical except for the shafts, carriers, and spider gears. I myself just picked up a 3.55 29 spline 8.25 for $25.

okay let me ger this sttaight you turned a 2wd tranny into a 4wd? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21055

Check the measurement from the backing plate to the perch. Do you know if it's the factory axle? Someone may have taken measurements from the top of the pumpkin, which isn't centered on most axles. If the backing plate measurements are the same, I would look at the springs.