Geonovast

Yup... fuel pump shares a ground with the taillights. You'll need to ground that out to the frame, and it should start right up.

235/75R15 is a hair above stock. Stock sizes ran from 195/75/R15 to 225/75/R15 There's a chart around here somewhere that shows what speedo gear you need for your tire/gearing combo.

Simple math.

Give it a little bit, from what I saw in another thread, the PMs are running a little slow tonight.

Look up at the top of the page, under the ComancheClub logo. It should say * Logout [ 89comanchesleeper ] * 1 new message

Maybe... But it'll probably be easier to grab a ton of extensions, at least one wobble extension, and crank on it from behind the T-case. That's how I had to get my (&^$ing torx ones out. Had a friend of mine hold a wrench against the extensions so the wobble didn't make it collapse when I torqued it... but you shouldn't have that problem tightening hex bolts.

For sale, or you just braggin'? :rotf:

1. Write down odometer reading. 2. Fill tank until the pump stops itself. 3. Go driving for awhile, probably until your needle is at about half. 4. Go fill tank back up (most accurately at the exact same pump) until the pump stops itself. Divide the mileage you traveled by the amount of gas you put in the second time.

Once I get one of them job things down here, and get my house in WI gone, I plan on significantly overpaying for some more stickers and magnets. :thumbsup:

If you're only dropping it about an inch, you'll just have to disconnect the crossmember itself. BE CAREFUL. Those bolts love to break.

AAL is Add A Leaf. It's just a single leaf that you add to your existing springpack. If the 4.5" is a full leaf replacement, which I'm sure it is, it will not work on your MJ. MJ leaves are considerably longer.

If they're complete replacement leaves for the XJ, they will not bolt onto an MJ. AALs for XJs won't do much on an MJ. As I'm sure you know, everything up front is the same for XJs and MJs.

Connection for the relay probably either broke, or the relay itself got busted in the crash. Could be a snipped wire somewhere too.

Forgot to ask in your other thread... Do you have an auto, or stick? If you have an auto and it has a column shifter, you're going to need to do some modification to get a full cluster in. There are no factory full clusters with the shift indicator in them.

Paint color's easier to fix than rust and tweaked frames.

Put up a WTB thread in the Wanted section of the classifieds. I guarantee you there's someone on here with an extra Renix full cluster.

Yup, all the wiring is already in there. After changing the cluster, all you need to do is swap out the temp switch for the sender on the back of the head, and the oil pressure switch for the sender by the distributor. I believe the 2.5 has it right in front of the dist.

I believe the Renix clusters have an adjustment on the tach so you can set it up for 2.5 or 4.0, and check against one of those laser tachs.

The intake and exhaust ports are not in the same location between Renix and HO, so your manifolds would not line up correctly.

It might be worth it to grab the front gears if they're in good shape... but not really the rears. The D35 isn't worth putting the money into for a re-gear.

Now... I may be wrong with this, having never had gears out of an axle.. but aren't the pinion and 'input' shaft on an axle the same piece?

They are coming out of a YJ. I don't believe the YJ was ever offered with a 4-speed. I've never heard of them coming with an AX-4 either, but hey, it's a Jeep. Especially with axle gearing, it never hurts to triple check anything.

Yes, the gears are the same between YJ and MJ Dana 30/35s Double triple check the ratio. 2.5 could have received 3.55 if the trans is an AX-4. My first MJ is a 91, and it came with 2.5/AX-4/3.55

The AX-4 and AX-5 are identical, aside from some separate internal parts that give the AX-5 the fifth gear. These go behind the 2.5L 4cyl, 2.8L V6, and 2.1L Turbo diesel. These CANNOT go behind a 4.0. Even if you had a custom bellhousing made, the transmission would not last. The AX-15 can go in place of the BA 10/5 fairly easily. There are several threads listing everything that needs to be done.

I don't think you'll have any length issues. AFAIK, there's only two input lengths.. and the long input was only used behind the AX-4/5. If all else fails, the input shafts between the 242 and 231 are interchangeable. So even if you have 2 21 spline 242s, you can put a 23 spline 231 input in it.