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About richasco

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    Comanche Fan

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    39°49′46″N 77°54′07″W

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  1. Putting my project up for sale, and when I say project I mean it. This Comanche is about 80% complete. The cab corners/rockers/uniframe are solid and nearly rust free. The floor pans aren't too far gone yet. But the drivers side is starting to go along with transmission tunnel. I'm just can't put the time in to finish it before it is no longer a viable project. See my posts in the registry for a few more details. It started out as a 2wd 2.8. It now has a later 4.0l AW4 and NV231 in it. The wiring harness/dash/steering column are from a 1996 Cherokee. It has a tan dash/center console/door panels from a Cherokee. It has Comanche bucket seat brackets as well. I found a bed for it that could be saved with a bit of work. I was planning on cutting off the bedsides to make an offroad bed for it. It also comes with rollbar brackets but no rollbar. I'm sure there is more that I have forgotten so please ask or request pictures(I have pretty good pictures of just about everything but too much to upload here). Asking $1,400 obo.
  2. As already mentioned, just jack it up, put it in 4wd and hold one shaft while turning the other both directions. There shouldn't be much slack at all. If there is, you need a new chain. The good news is that the chain is easy to replace and you don't have to remove the t-case to do it. In my experience, a good chain can stretch very quickly if the case is allowed to run low or dry. You might want to replace the seals while you have it apart.
  3. The firewall mod to fit the 4.0l in an '86 is way over blown. It can be done in 10 seconds with any hammer. The area that needs to be moved is only 6" high by 2" wide and 1" deep.
  4. I think the easiest thing to do would be to grab the engine and dash harnesses from a '96. I am currently in the middle of putting a 2000 4.0l/aw4/231 into my '86. The '96 harness and dash drop right in. There was only one bracket on the pax fender that I had to remove. I am also using the '96 steering column and brake pedal as well. You could just swap out your dash harness vs. the entire dash, but you will need a cluster that will work with the obd2 computer. Also putting in the aw4 and then swapping it out for a manual will probably be more work than it is worth. I would put the ax15 in from the start.
  5. No one has yet mentioned that you will need to move the crossmember. It involves drilling new holes in the frame and welding or inserting nutserts. The firewall mod is the easiest part of this swap, it is an area six inches tall by two inches wide and only needs to be one inch deep. The crossmember and radiator support are the most time consuming/difficult parts. Also on my '86 swap the frame rail brackets matched up almost perfectly except for two bolts on the trackbar mount which required some grinding to get a good alignment. Good luck.
  6. The manifolds are different. They will only bolt to a High Output head, although some people have been able to get them to work with some grinding. Your fuel injection will not bolt on without work too. You could grab the head and bolt it and the manifolds to your engine. Make sure you research "0331 heads" first, that 2000 head is likely to crack/already cracked if overheated.
  7. Start with a truck that has the engine and transmission that you want. The 4wd swap is much easier/cheaper/less time consuming. As far as the transmission tunnel, when you lift up the carpet you will see a blanking plate with four screws, remove it and put the transfer case shifter in it's place. And 4wd AW4s are plentiful and cheap, I got two from CL for free and haven't been able to give them away.
  8. The area where I am able to deliver/pick-up is listed in my ad. That's right I am willing to deliver any/all of this stuff. I am very flexible on price, as in I don't need any of it and if someone else does, they can have it. Oh and Jim, I think you looked up an east longitude instead of west.
  9. I have for sale or trade(see my post in WTB) a few parts from an '86 in the PA MD DC NOVA area. 1. A maroon steering column that is a column shift with indicator on the column. $30 2. An engine wiring harness that appears to be intact/complete with a nice firewall connector. $15 I also have two AW4s. One is a '98 and has a torque converter, the other is a '96 it has no converter and both are 4wd. I got both for free from craigslist the po said that the '98 was from his jeep and he thought it needed a rebuild. So he bought the '96 from a salvage yard but then found out that it wouldn't work for his jeep. I took the nss from the '98 for my dd. I will sell these for $20, but would rather trade for any of the many parts that I need to get my mj back on the road.
  10. Parts I still need are mj rear driveshaft for 4x4 auto, wheel/tire combo 31/10.5 on factory steel wagon wheels and a nice pair of tan bucket seats(do not need brackets). Thanks for looking.
  11. teamsmith, Here is a link that you should follow and spend some time reading, I think it will help you understand things a little better. http://www.autismspeaks.org/
  12. Where exactly in MD are you? There are several trucks that are in or close to MD that range from fixer upper to fully restored/resto-mod. Have you considered a truck that needs work? Sometimes it really pays to start with a base truck and then build it to match your needs/capabilities. Here is a basic truck, sure it needs an engine but a 3.4l swap is cheap and very effective. http://smd.craigslist.org/cto/4714535480.html If you want a running driving truck try this: http://easternshore.craigslist.org/cto/4748586261.html This one has been for sale for a long time so he should be a little flexible on price. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/4755131906.html Same here, http://smd.craigslist.org/cto/4734560524.html If you have really saved your money, this is already well built. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/cto/4751127509.html And finally if you really want to go all out, http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/4750955978.html
  13. I've been researching ideas for my lift for a long time now. I'm planning on SOA with 2wd leaf packs. In stock form the ride height is one inch lower than a 4wd, So a SOA with 2wd packs should give you a little less lift compared to using 4wd springs. The only concern I have is with axle wrap. I haven't seen anyone really say anything about it and the softer spring rate/lower arch of the 2wd springs is potential problem.
  14. Define worst; size, severity, distance from home, improbability, diagnostic time, cost to repair?
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